120V Small Batch Brewing Setup

ScubaSteve said:

This build is awesome....it makes me want to start mine all over again! I like that clean look...you're going to have a really nice rig!

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Agreed. Makes me excited again to think about my next 10G system.

This build is awesome....it makes me want to start mine all over again! I like that clean look...you're going to have a really nice rig!

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Thanks Steve! I actually got a lot of inspiration from your setup.

Some of the electrical parts coming together.

Stainless goods

Control panel cut.

Switches, Timer and PID's installed. Still waiting for buzzer/indicator alarm. (It's coming from Hong Kong)

Nice work on the control cabinet. I'm guessing you work in the field or have access to someone who does with those special punches and labels.

Thanks IP. I actually purchased the control panel (used) off Ebay with the circular holes already punched. I actually cut the square openings with a jigsaw and lots of lube. As far as the labels go though...yes made at work.

Wow, Nice jigsaw work.

Ha....my buzzer/indicator is on the slow boat from China as well! Thos are some sweet pics, especially digging the swagelok stuff. Do you have a bender? There's nothing like custom SS tubing!

We must've ordered from the same person...Ebay?

All the plumbing is going to be hard piped so I am hoping to do a few bends. Hopefully I don't screw it up as my supply of stainless tubing is limited.

I thought I would also include my ever changing schematic for this build. I also may be setting myself up to be flamed by doing this. Anyways.....

are you using dual SSR's or something?

are you using dual SSR's or something?

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I'm not sure I understand your question. I am using one SSR per heating element. One element for the BK and the other element for the MLT. Each controlled by their respective PID.

DeeDub76 said:

I'm not sure I understand your question. I am using one SSR per heating element. One element for the BK and the other element for the MLT. Each controlled by their respective PID.

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I asked because your schematic makes it look like the SSRs are outputting both hot and neutral to the elements. I wasn't sure if you were using some sort of short-hand type notation.

Neutral to the elements (and indicator lamsp) will come directly from the incoming power feed (your neutral bus-bar/terminal strip thing). Hot will pass through the SSR before going to the element.

Ahhhhh......Now I know what your saying. Like this?

Yeah. The only thing missing is a connection from your hot bus to the other terminal on the SSRs.

And, one suggestion. The PIDs don't need anywhere near 1A to operate, so you might want to put smaller fuses in there to protect them. I use 0.3A to protect mine.

Oh... and you are kind of pushing the limit on 20A with the 2000W elements and the pump.

2000W = 16.7A.
Pump = 1.4A

You're under 20A, but close to it. It probably won't really be an issue, but it's something to keep in mind.

The 2000W element and pumps are not an issue from experience. Your schematic is getting closer.

Boerderij_Kabouter said:

The 2000W element and pumps are not an issue from experience. Your schematic is getting closer.

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Yeah. I don't think it'll be an issue either. Especially if he's actually getting less than 120v from the wall.

If it's 110v, then the element will only produce 1680W and draw 15.3A.

I use 25A breakers for a 5500W/240V element (and I really get 240V) and that's pushing the limit, and I've never had any issues either.

Ok....here is the "ever changing " schematic update.

Looking pretty good.

The only other comment I have is that you are relying on the center selector switch to turn off an element by cutting the control signal from the PIDs to the SSR for that element.

Most folks don't like to rely on the SSR control signal as a cut-off mechanism because of the comment constantly thrown around that SSRs can fail in the "ON" mode. Meaning, they will pass power through even when the PID isn't telling them to do so.

You do have a master power switch, but it might be a good idea to put in secondary power switches for each element so that you can manually turn them off "for sure" by cutting the hot line into or out of the SSR rather than turn them off with that center selector switch on the SSR control lines.

That's a personal choice for you to make.

What you could do is: instead of using a selector switch to control which SSR is getting a control signal, just hook the PIDs straight to their respective SSRs and instead use a selector switch to control which of the SSRs is receiving the 120v hot signal.

So.. no extra switches involved, just a re-definition of what the center selector switch is controlling.

With a 3 day weekend I managed to get some of the hard plumbing completed.


Some slack in the power cables were needed so that I can remove the elements when cleaning. I used spiral wrap to keep them together.

While I wait to order the plate chiller so I can finish the plumbing, I moved onto wiring the panel.

My SSR heatsinks mounted on the outside.

Ok a couple more pics.

Front

Back

Is that pump secured in any way other than by the head's connections to the pipes?

A stainless bracket is in the works.

Cool.

If Pol were here, he'd leave again because you've seriously out-blinged him! Damn fine work DeeDub76.

Looking fantastic. While you're doing the lower plumbing, include a drain valve at the lowest point. I just did it on mine, and I'm SO glad I did. Makes cleanup really easy and prevents funk.

If Pol were here, he'd leave again because you've seriously out-blinged him! Damn fine work DeeDub76.

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Thanks!!!! I'm not sure though...his setup was really nice!

ScubaSteve I have been contemplating adding a drain because I am concerned with contaminents growing if not fully drained. Consider a low point drain installed. Thanks for your input.

DeeDub76 said:

Thanks!!!! I'm not sure though...his setup was really nice!

ScubaSteve I have been contemplating adding a drain because I am concerned with contaminents growing if not fully drained. Consider a low point drain installed. Thanks for your input.

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Looks like you've already got something in place to the left of the valves by the pump....what are you going to connect to the tee that is currently open?

FWIW, I can tell you that this kind of pump configuration with the bottom drains works awesome. The water just slams through the pump head and floods it...my LG is crazy powerful and I haven't had a single issue with priming. But the more I look at it, is your pump's output pointing down? It'll still work that way, but those pumps can be temperamental. If you want to save yourself some headaches, maybe shift it? (If I'm looking at it right, that is)....

I still have to plumb in a plate chiller. Yes, the pump output is pointing downward. I arranged it this way do to the space limitations on the shelf and getting everything to line up plumbing wise.
I expect during my trial runs and testing I will have to make changes as I don't plan everything to work just perfect. It's a nice thought though. Are you thinking I should have the pump ports pointing horizontal?

Some of the wiring is completed. Still waiting on my last indicator/buzzer.

Love your build so far!

I am inspired by the fact that I am seeing more small breweries being setup for 3g batches. What are your plans for fermenters? Size? Type? Are you planning on bottling or kegging?

Wiring job is top notch! The hardlined plumbing is sweet too. How much longer until you plan on firing that bad boy up?

Well last night the rig came to life! I ran some water tests to qualify it. No leaks, pump worked awesome, and elements operated smoothly. The PID's need calibrated and some additional setup. Timer still needs connected to buzzer/indicator. But, in all, it was a great feeling seeing my creation come to life.

Is it just me or has anybody else got nervous and held their breathe the first time they flipped the power switch?!!

sammy33 said:

Love your build so far!

I am inspired by the fact that I am seeing more small breweries being setup for 3g batches. What are your plans for fermenters? Size? Type? Are you planning on bottling or kegging?

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I just purchased two 5 gallon Better Bottles with the flow spigots. They seem like a quality product. My other project is my refridgerator fermentation chamber.
For right now I plan on bottling. I am sure that will change.

TheFlyingBeer said:

Wiring job is top notch! The hardlined plumbing is sweet too. How much longer until you plan on firing that bad boy up?

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Thanks!!! I still have to incorporate a drain valve for draining the lines after cleaning. I also want to insulate the MLT. I'm considering using 3/4 neoprene. Lastly, I need to plumb my plate chiller.

Lookin' good! How does the pump work? Too bad you're insulating the MLT....it's a shame to cover up that stainless!

DeeDub76 said:

Well last night the rig came to life! I ran some water tests to qualify it. No leaks, pump worked awesome, and elements operated smoothly. The PID's need calibrated and some additional setup. Timer still needs connected to buzzer/indicator. But, in all, it was a great feeling seeing my creation come to life.

Is it just me or has anybody else got nervous and held their breathe the first time they flipped the power switch?!!

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I would be curious to know what your preliminary testing has discovered, in terms of heat efficiency. What made you decide to insulate the MLT? Why not just run the heat element to maintain temps in the MLT if your losing too much heat, or does that pose a risk to the mash getting scorched?

The only time i get nervous powering something up for the first time is if:
1) the creation poses a real and possible risk of causing bodily harm if things go wrong.
2) and it's automated by a computer running windows

Anyways, I can't wait to get some brew day feedback when you get to that point. Congrats on the setup!

My purpose of insulating is to simply make heating the water more effecient and hopefully quicker. The use of the lid also helps. I just think a lot of the heat that is lost through convection could be prevented with insulation.

However, like ScubaSteve pointed out.....it's a shame to cover up the nice stainless.