How to get into 10 gallon batches

My brother has access to some 11 gallon plastic buckest used to store calcium hypochlorite tablets for swimming pools. I'm thinking this could be a perfect primary fermenter for 10 gallon batches.

But I'm not sure about the feasibility of all the rest of the equipment. Namely the boiler. The only thing I can find on Craigslist is a 15 gallon SS boiler for $135.

Does anyone out there have a clever idea for a boiler that can accommodate 10 gallons?

I've got one of those huge canners - I think it's a 33 qt so about 8 gallons - 2 gallons shy.

Most people use the converted half barrel kegs. There are plenty of thread on here showing how to make them.

Knowing that fermentation is exothermic and produces heat, I can see an issue in temperature control for fermenting all 10 gallons in one vessel. If you have a fermentation chamber that fits the 11 gallon bucket than this shouldn't be an issue!

One positive about splitting a 10 gallon batch between two fermentation vessels is that you could pitch different yeast and produce different beers!

hoppymonkey said:

most people use the converted half barrel kegs. There are plenty of thread on here showing how to make them.

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+1

You could go aluminum pretty cheaply. Maybe something like this-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-QT-COOKI...=140584899599&ps=63&clkid=3034376201027626229

I think it's still best to ferment in regular size fermenters. Moving 10 gallons around is a PIA.

OK so never mind the 10 gallon fermenter - just go with a 10+ gallon boiler.

Is aluminum OK to use for brewing?

As long as you don't mind saving money, aluminum's just fine!

I've been using a 7 gallon aluminum pot for a while now, and I'm looking to add a 10 gallon version to help with the bigger boils. Just boil some water in the pot before you ever brew with it, to build up an oxidation layer, and NEVER scrub away that oxidation layer inside the pot, and you're good to go!

If you can get your hands on anodized aluminum, then it will be as good as Stainless.

Cheapest route will be converting a keg, lot of videos and threads on how to do it.
Takes about 30minutes to cut and clean it.

The keggle is by far the cheapest best way to go for that. I paid 35$ for mine. Also you'll need at least a 10g mash tun. My home depot cylindrical holds a max of 24 lbs of grain, roughly 7% beer so if you want bigger beers get a larger tun. Just an fyi.

elpenoso raises a good point... My buddy and I just did a 10 gallon batch of a bock that weighed in at 1.076 OG - about 32lbs of grain. Fortunately, we ordered the ingredients as two separate but identical grain bills, rather than one larger one, so we were able to mash separately in each of our 10-gallon cooler MLT's.

Probably a 70qt, or thereabouts, rectangular cooler with manifold would be a better fit if you want to do 10 gallon batches of some bigger beers.

BlackJaqueJanaviac said:

My brother has access to some 11 gallon plastic buckest used to store calcium hypochlorite tablets for swimming pools. I'm thinking this could be a perfect primary fermenter for 10 gallon batches.

But I'm not sure about the feasibility of all the rest of the equipment. Namely the boiler. The only thing I can find on Craigslist is a 15 gallon SS boiler for $135.

Does anyone out there have a clever idea for a boiler that can accommodate 10 gallons?

I've got one of those huge canners - I think it's a 33 qt so about 8 gallons - 2 gallons shy.

Click to expand...

For the record I wouldn't use any container used to store swimming pool chemicals, not even the Calcium or bicarbonate. For large boilers you can use a converted keg or scour the Home Depots/Lowes for pots going on sale/clearance. I picked up my 15 Gallon pot for under $40.

Under no circumstance should you ever ferment in anything plastic that was used to store chlorine tablets. Unless of course you like really crappy beer.

I've accidentally swallowed pool water several times in my life, and somehow, I am still alive...

Chlorine is purposely added to tap water all over the world...

With that said... if you can get rid of all of the Chlorine smell (or at least most of it), and you can get yeast to ferment in it, and the final beer tastes good... Why not ferment in them?

LVBen said:

I've accidentally swallowed pool water several times in my life, and somehow, I am still alive...

Chlorine is purposely added to tap water all over the world...

With that said... if you can get rid of all of the Chlorine smell (or at least most of it), and you can get yeast to ferment in it, and the final beer tastes good... Why not ferment in them?

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I wouldn't try to ferment 10 gal in an 11 gal container regardless. Unless you just really like cleaning up blow off all time.

2 Ale Pails=$20
Fully loaded keggle(valve, sight glass, & thermometer)=$80
70qt Coleman Extreme cooler(Walmart)=$40

1 gallon of head space in a bucket will not be enough room to ferment in even if you use Fermcap.
If you don't want to go the keggle route try a local restaurant supply store they should have some pretty cheap stainless pots.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

LVBen said:

I've accidentally swallowed pool water several times in my life, and somehow, I am still alive...

Chlorine is purposely added to tap water all over the world...

With that said... if you can get rid of all of the Chlorine smell (or at least most of it), and you can get yeast to ferment in it, and the final beer tastes good... Why not ferment in them?

Click to expand...

Excellent logic there. Chlorine at 2ppm isn't going to harm you, a bucket that's holding 50lbs of compressed powder tablets is a little different there. It's up to you if you want to risk 10 gallons of beer to a bucket with a 5.1 placard on it to save money on some buckets. If you're dead set on a single 10 gallon vessel, check out the brew cube at austinhomebrew.

SwampassJ said:

Excellent logic there. Chlorine at 2ppm isn't going to harm you, a bucket that's holding 50lbs of compressed powder tablets is a little different there. It's up to you if you want to risk 10 gallons of beer to a bucket with a 5.1 placard on it to save money on some buckets. If you're dead set on a single 10 gallon vessel, check out the brew cube at austinhomebrew.

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I certainly hope he isn't leaving the the 50 lbs of chlorine tablets still in there...

LVBen said:

I certainly hope he isn't leaving the the 50 lbs of chlorine tablets still in there...

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It doesn't matter, you can not get those buckets suitable for fermenting. I run a pool service business, trust me I have tried. The ones I get are HDPE and are useless for anything other than chemical storage after the first tablet goes into it.

I got 15 gal malt extract barrels from my lhbs for 10 bucks each

I do 10gal batches as my standard. I use a converted sanke keg as a mash tun, and the SWMBO got me a 20gal aluminum brew kettle from resturantdepot.com for $89 delivered. I always ferment as 2x5gal batches as it is more convenient for kegging in cornies and gives me more options for experimenting with different dry hops/yeasts/flavorings. Also, by all means, DO NOT use chlorine buckets for fermenting. It will give your beer the famous burnt bandaid flavor, even soaking in water treated with campden tablets and dechlorinator made for commercial aquariums will not reduce the chlorine to a level that will not ruin your beer.

BlackJaqueJanaviac said:

OK so never mind the 10 gallon fermenter - just go with a 10+ gallon boiler.

Is aluminum OK to use for brewing?

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Remember that you need more than 10 gallons in the boil, plus headspace, for a 10 gallon batch. I use a 15-gallon pot for 10 gallon batches. I get about 1.5 - 1.75 gallons boiloff and leave about .5 gallons behind. That gives me a few gallons of headspace for the rolling boil and foam.

Jaz

Katom has a huge selection of aluminum pots. I have 3 15gal pots for 10 gallon batches. I would recommend 20 gal bk if you can afford it and watch the diameter, mine are super wide and my boil off rate is insane and annoying.

Also, by all means, DO NOT use chlorine buckets for fermenting.

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OK, OK, I get it. I'm not one to pee on the 'lectric fence just to see for myself. (But I might be one to convince some city-boy to do it just to see for myself)

The 60 qt HLT was 59 bucks from Palm Coast rest supply clearance price. The boil pot is a Wearever 120 qt that I picked up for free from a defunct pizza deli place the owner of the building was chucking it. So if you look around it can be done on the cheap.



I use a Delex 15 gallon drum from USPlastics 15gl in a large swamp cooler keeps temps very well

LVBen said:

I've accidentally swallowed pool water several times in my life, and somehow, I am still alive...

Chlorine is purposely added to tap water all over the world...

With that said... if you can get rid of all of the Chlorine smell (or at least most of it), and you can get yeast to ferment in it, and the final beer tastes good... Why not ferment in them?

Click to expand...

Have you ever heard of the Darwin Awards??

E

People are purposely adding hydrochloric acid to their beers! People are cleaning their equipment with bleach! People are drinking chlorine in their tap water everyday!

You can eliminate almost all of the chemicals remaining in the bucket simply by soaking it in water for a few days, and you will be left will an incredibly clean and sanitary bucket.

LVBen said:

People are purposely adding hydrochloric acid to their beers! People are cleaning their equipment with bleach! People are drinking chlorine in their tap water everyday!

You can eliminate almost all of the chemicals remaining in the bucket simply by soaking it in water for a few days, and you will be left will an incredibly clean and sanitary bucket.

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Why didn't I think of that! My chemical supplier goes through several pallets a day, I'm waisting a gold mine here. Saying it once more because now I get the feeling you're trying to get the OP to ruin his beer. You can't get these buckets useable, I've tried. Re-using a plastic (permeable) bucket that held chemicals is a bad idea at best. Where's the do not feed the trolls picture?

Well there seems to be a straw-man getting attacked.

The Darwin Awards comment implies that you will do much worse than simply ruin your beer - you will poison yourself.

While I believe that the residual chlorine could be sufficient to ruin beer, I don't believe that storing water in one of these buckets will leach out enough chlorine to give a person a fatal dose.

And Good Heavens - I don't think anyone on these boards is stupid enough to attempt to brew a batch of beer in these things without giving it a thorough cleaning. I highly doubt anyone is going to poison themselves.

That said, maybe when I've got $40 to throw away I'll attempt to brew a batch in a empty, well washed, chlorine bucket just to see for myself that it can't be done. I suspect it will be a long time before I have $40 to throw away.

elpenoso said:

The keggle is by far the cheapest best way to go for that. I paid 35$ for mine. Also you'll need at least a 10g mash tun.

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+1
keep an eye out I paid $20 for two empty kegs.

Got a college campus nearby, I live 5 mins from Rutgers. Take a drive on Thursday night (yes Thursday night, Seasoned college kids don't schedule classes on Fridays) Look for the biggest loudest party around. Almost a guarantee you'll be back Friday AFTERNOON to pick it up. If ya go by in the am hours on party night the keg may be already empty..

EDIT: Not stealing from the college kids "buying it"

twanger1994 said:

+1
keep an eye out I paid $20 for two empty kegs.

Got a college campus nearby, I live 5 mins from Rutgers. Take a drive on Thursday night (yes Thursday night, Seasoned college kids don't schedule classes on Fridays) Look for the biggest loudest party around. Almost a guarantee you'll be back Friday AFTERNOON to pick it up. If ya go by in the am hours on party night the keg may be already empty..

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Instead of stealing from the Frat parties ask a distributor or brewery for decomissioned kegs.

SwampassJ said:

Instead of stealing from the Frat parties ask a distributor or brewery for decomissioned kegs.

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im not saying steal them college kids love extra money..

Do we really need to start another keggle debate? Buy a damn stock pot or a brew kettle.

So if a guy gets his hands on a 10+ gallon boiler, how do you move the wort from boiler to fermenters?

I can lift 5 gallon batches, but 10 gallons would be a tad too much.

Now that I think of it, would 10 gallons be too heavy for those cast-iron propane burners?

I'm afraid that getting into 10 gallon batches may mean more than simply getting a bigger boiler.

I have to tip mine on the burner to pour to the bucket, or siphon it. I could use a ball valve but I don't need it. Some need a pump.

If you have a 10 psi regulator you can boil it.

If you have a 10 psi regulator you can boil it.

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Is this the answer to my question about whether 10 gallons would be too heavy for the cast iron burner?

I have an adjustable regulator so I should be able to get the BTUs to boil 10 gallons. I'm just worried the burner wouldn't hold the weight.

Hot wort is a whole lot safer than a frying turkey. Think of the fire if the frame collapsed and the oil lit up and/or got on you. It has to be much stronger than needed.

BlackJaqueJanaviac said:

So if a guy gets his hands on a 10+ gallon boiler, how do you move the wort from boiler to fermenters?

I can lift 5 gallon batches, but 10 gallons would be a tad too much.

Now that I think of it, would 10 gallons be too heavy for those cast-iron propane burners?

I'm afraid that getting into 10 gallon batches may mean more than simply getting a bigger boiler.

Click to expand...

There is a misconception with people on here that to brew 10 gallons of beer they need to lift 10 gallons at once. Why would you think that? Reason being, what if you ran off what you can lift into a 5 gal pail and then transferred to the other tank? Of course you can pump, but I think cleaning my pump and getting set up takes more time than I want to expend.
Put 3 gallons at a time in a 5 gal pail and move the liquid. That is only a few trips. I do 20 gallon batches and leave my pump clean and on the shelf. Its pretty easy over the course of 4 hours.

As far as burner strength, my weakest burner when I used propane was an sq-14 and it didn't buckle under 18 gallons of boiling wort. Plus the weight of the 25 gallon SS kettle.

So what would a reasonable price be for a 44 or 62 qt stock pot? Would 44 qts work for 10 gallon batches?

Would I be insane to make a pot out of regular steel? I think I could lay my hands on a short section of 16-inch pipe and weld a bottom on it.

I got my 16 gallon SS kettle from Austin HomeBrew. About $100.

More than I wanted to pay, but I was ready for AG.

As others have said, theres plenty of ways to get equipment much cheaper.