but I'm wondering if I should just buy the 60A panel since I ran 6 gauge wire to the panel.
Why not? You will be fusing down in the CP anyway right? If the price is right, may as well have the extra 10A available.
but I'm wondering if I should just buy the 60A panel since I ran 6 gauge wire to the panel.
l3asturd said:I bought the SSRs from jamesbond. The mechanical relays i got from electricalparts.
You need some panel tags....
Where are the receptacles going? Bottom?
dburgette said:Which mechanical relays did you go with? 50a 220v? or 50a110v? or something else?
That always completes the look. Did you go with the same place as kal?
Thanks for the relay info.
l3asturd said:Got something done this weekend despite constant rain.
Here's the 60A panel too:
You must have a really skinny shovel...cheater
l3asturd said:Ha I used a garden shovel and drank a homebrew for every foot I dug.
OK it costs $66 to rent a trencher at Home Depot and took about an hour. Luckily the ground was fairly soggy otherwise it would have been much harder. I dug about 6 feet of trench on the other side of the fence (to the panel) with a plain o' shovel. It reminded me that they make machines that do things for us.
l3asturd said:I've been pondering P-J's Estop wiring for awhile now. It's one of the last things to do in my panel. He shows 2 1kohm resistors in series. I don't know if it's because they're cheap or what. I was wondering why I don't just use a 2K 10W resistor instead. Something like this? Can anyone shed any light on why there are 2 resistors in series and a fuse? The other thing is that is the fuse is blown my Estop won't work?!
Ya I googled looking for a local place and that guy was the first one I found. He did a great job and I got them super cheap and shipped fast. Winning.
That would be better IMO. A GFCI only needs 10-15 mA to trip. PJ's circuit provides 30 and dissipates nearly 4W in 2W of resistors. A 4k 5W resistor would be perfect. A 2k 10W will work too. Fusing seems redundant to me and out of place to me for a safety circuit.
OooooK And in the millisecond that it takes to trip the GFCI, this becomes a critical component???I'm sorry, I misspoke here. In PJ's circuit 2kΩ resistance will provide 60mA and dissipate 7.2W. So a 10W resistor is a good choice. (2) 1W resistors in series should fry pretty quick.
4.7kΩ will give 26mA and 3W
10kΩ will give 12mA and 1.5W
OooooK And in the millisecond that it takes to trip the GFCI, this becomes a critical component???
The amout of heat subjected to the 1W resistors in a milisecond it takes to trip the GFCI ...
F it You all are on your own. I just beg you all to get real.
Ok... I'll butt out from now on unless the issue is directed to me.
Critical review accepted. Getting really old just plain sucks.!
Go for it.!
Edit: And BTW - I chose those particular resistors as they were commonly available at RadioShack. The fuse in series was placed to prevent a wiring mishap. Not for circuit protection.
Carry on....
OooooK And in the millisecond that it takes to trip the GFCI, this becomes a critical component???
The amout of heat subjected to the 1W resistors in a milisecond it takes to trip the GFCI ...
F it You all are on your own. I just beg you all to get real.
Thanks, I thought that might be the reason, availability. It does make sense to use something that you can easily replace if needed. I'll go to Radio Shack tomorrow and see what they carry.
Regarding my project, I just finished all the piping. Pulled 4 6AWG wires through (that was NOT FUN) and landed everything in the main panel and new spa panel. Just waiting on the leviton plugs now and I should be brewing very soon.
PJ, we have been here before on this same topic. I think your e-stop GFCI shunt idea is brilliant and I've told you so several times. You have impressed ME and many others with your diagrams and the help you have provided here.
This is a technical area of our forum. I have only offered advice when I feel I can back it up with knowledge and/or experience. My challenge to your design is not a personal attack on you. Academically, I feel it is flawed. You have not yet defendend your design with anything but threats to quit the thread or forum in whole.
Offer me some calculations or experience to show why it makes sense to design a shunt circuit [strictly designed for safety purposes] to fail in non-ideal conditions and I will entertain your argument.
NOT...
You are on your own.
I do NOT have to defend myself because you do not understand.
Geeze...
Those tags look great. What size are they, and can you post a link to the vendor?? Thanks, overall, everything's looking great.
What are the three lights or buttons in between the PIDS? I saw that you didn't have them in your original mock up or cut-out, but added them afterwards. Looks like they're wired up on the behind view.
Are they indicator lights for when signals are sent from PIDS to elements?
l3asturd said:It lives!
But first I had to power it up....
and the beast on.....
Got some troubleshooting to do. The element lights have 35VAC across them, lighting them up a little.
Nice!
I remember seeing the light issue a few times. I think it was due to leakage through the ssr? There is a thread out there.
mux said:That happens to mine too. It seems that it only happens when the element is unplugged.
tjpfeister said:VERY sexy. This gives me incentive to jamb more wires in mine today! I'm curious what your solution was to cutting square holes for the PIDs. Most people seem to gloss over that part and it has me wondering if I chose the normal route or not.
tjpfeister said:I'm not documenting every step, so I'm not posting here. But if you are curious, you can see my progression here: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tims-Closet-Brewery/109802049089362
tjpfeister said:Also, the element indicators, I'm assuming they run off the high-side of the SSR (240v). I'm just curious why you chose to put them on that side instead of the control side. I'm not questioning the choice, I'm just wondering. I suppose it would lead to easier diagnosis of a failed SSR or element if the event were to occur, right? But triggering the indicator of the control side would likely eliminate the trickle-glow.
tjpfeister said:Sorry for flapping my digital lips so much, just enjoying my morning coffee and admiring your build! You have anything constructed on the rest of the rig? Stand/plumbing/etc?
If you tap a 120V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and neutral and have no element plugged in, it will light up due to leakage.
If you tap a 120V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and neutral and have the element plugged in, it will light up due to the path from the OTHER hot line, through the element, through the light, and then to neutral. Doesn't matter whether the SSR is or is not firing. It will light up all the time.
If you tap a 240V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and the other hot line and have no element plugged in, it will light up due to leakage.
If you tap a 240V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and the other hot line, and have the element plugged in, it will only light up when the element is actually firing (leakage current will almost all go through the element since it is MUCH lower resistance than the light).
P-J said:This: With excellent compliments to Walker.!
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