Stainless Steel Heating Element

SSBrew - 728
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gnarles said:
anyone have any first hand experience with this element?

(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LI2W88G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)

Is the fact that is stainless warrant the extra $$$
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If the screw base is stainless it's worth the extra. Most stainless (incoloy) elements have a zinc plated steel screw base that can rust in homebrew applications.

I think the 2500W is kind of low for 240V application, so you may want to take a look consider brewhardware - I think Bobby is going to be getting all stainless 5500W ULWD ripple elements as well.
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1832.htm
 
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I love the design of the thing... the threads on the electrical side would make a waterproof enclosure a breeze for about two bucks of hardware store shelf items. Anybody have something similar at about twice the wattage? I'm entertaining just getting two for each kettle.
 
pablosbrewing said:
If the screw base is stainless it's worth the extra. Most stainless (incoloy) elements have a zinc plated steel screw base that can rust in homebrew applications.

I think the 2500W is kind of low for 240V application, so you may want to take a look consider brewhardware - I think Bobby is going to be getting all stainless 5500W ULWD ripple elements as well.
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1832.htm
Click to expand...

I believe this is actually stainless. They were advertising it as 5500w (or maybe 4500w) and someone on HBT received one and found it wasnt as advertised. They eventually revised the description after apologizing, because they were led to believe they were 5500w.

Has Bobby said anything about ULWD ripple elements recently? I know several of us initially asked, and he said he was starting with the straight elements because they could also be used in his RIMs tube, and that was the last I heard of him mentioning it. I really, really hope he is getting some ULWD. I could swap out my BK element, and continue using the straight ones in my RIMs and HLT, plus have a backup element if I ever encountered problems!
 
Since the still boys has a cover on the backside does that mean you don't need a enclosure? Can I wire it up and put in a cord grip? Save a bit of cash not having to do up an enclosure.
 
theck said:
Since the still boys has a cover on the backside does that mean you don't need a enclosure? Can I wire it up and put in a cord grip? Save a bit of cash not having to do up an enclosure.
Click to expand...

You could, but you would need a way to ground the kettle separately. There's also the issue of only being 2500 watts which isn't much.
 
Bobby_M said:
You could, but you would need a way to ground the kettle separately. There's also the issue of only being 2500 watts which isn't much.
Click to expand...

Ah forgot about grounding good point... Be perfect for a rims tube though.
 
Bobby_M said:
$45
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Awesome, thanks for responding. I love your level of service, and really appreciate you filling in some of the gaps with better elements, better priced cam locks, etc. It's a good part of why I have spent over $1k on your site in the past 3 months and will gladly buy the new ripple element!
 
Bobby, will these be ULWD ripple heating elements? Also, what voltage and wattage will you have available?
 
Yes, the ripples are all ULWD at 5500w. Keep in mind, I'm yet to hear about any scorching issues with the current LWD 5500's we have so the ripples are for those who want to be ultra conservative.

The full suite of elements we'll have after the new lot arrives:

5500 ULWD Ripple foldback (240v)
5500 LWD Straight foldback (240v)
2000 ULWD Straight foldback (120v)
1500 LWD 8" long hairpin (120v)
1500 ULWD 11" long hairpin (120v)
 
Bobby. Any chance you will carry 4500w elements? I'm building a 50 amp back to back unit. The 5500 s will draw to much juice running simultaneously.
 
I don't think I'll have 4500 any time soon. Why can't you run two 5500 watt elements? Worst case you have a full 240 volts then it will draw 45.83amps. That's enough room for a pair of pumps too. Most likely you'll have 230v so they'll actually only pull 43.9amps.
 
Are they ready yet? :)

spaming-refresh-button.jpg
 
Bobby_M said:
I don't think I'll have 4500 any time soon. Why can't you run two 5500 watt elements? Worst case you have a full 240 volts then it will draw 45.83amps. That's enough room for a pair of pumps too. Most likely you'll have 230v so they'll actually only pull 43.9amps.
Click to expand...

Quoting another sight. "The electrical code in most locations requires that you do not use more than 80% of a circuit's capacity. On a 50A/240V circuit 11000W uses 92% (45.8A) while 9000W uses only 75% (37.5A)."

I'm not sure what the code is in Texas. Just seemed easier to use 4500 (better safe than sorry). I'll have to look at this more closely when it time to assemble my HLT and BK. I'll be running a 50 amp breaker I didn't think it would be an issue but I'm new to the electric game.
 
LarMoeCur said:
Quoting another sight. "The electrical code in most locations requires that you do not use more than 80% of a circuit's capacity. On a 50A/240V circuit 11000W uses 92% (45.8A) while 9000W uses only 75% (37.5A)."

I'm not sure what the code is in Texas. Just seemed easier to use 4500 (better safe than sorry). I'll have to look at this more closely when it time to assemble my HLT and BK. I'll be running a 50 amp breaker I didn't think it would be an issue but I'm new to the electric game.
Click to expand...

My understanding is that this de-rating applies only to continuous loads of 3 hours or more. I pulsing SSR does not qualify as continuous.
 
Out of curiosity, so what if the electrical code in one place says you can't run 11000W on a 50A/240V circuit? If the code in your location says it's okay then it's okay but if it says it's not okay then suddenly it isn't safe? I mean, either there is a legitimate safety concern or there isn't, right?

People are running two 5500W elements on a 50A/240V circuit without issues, are they not?
 
Gameface said:
Out of curiosity, so what if the electrical code in one place says you can't run 11000W on a 50A/240V circuit? If the code in your location says it's okay then it's okay but if it says it's not okay then suddenly it isn't safe? I mean, either there is a legitimate safety concern or there isn't, right?

People are running two 5500W elements on a 50A/240V circuit without issues, are they not?
Click to expand...

You are operating on the faulty assumptions that regulations have to make sense. :)
 
Gameface said:
Out of curiosity, so what if the electrical code in one place says you can't run 11000W on a 50A/240V circuit? If the code in your location says it's okay then it's okay but if it says it's not okay then suddenly it isn't safe? I mean, either there is a legitimate safety concern or there isn't, right?

People are running two 5500W elements on a 50A/240V circuit without issues, are they not?
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. Who writes these dumb codes anyway. Use a 50 amp breaker but you can only pull 80% because heaven forbid you pull 50 amps.
 
I have two 5500 SS elements in HLT from bobby. i have tested my system with 20gallon HLT and both elements on with my 50amp control panel. So far with my testing i have not had issues. you should be good with running two. I went with two elements in my HTL and one in my boil kettle. The reason i only use one in my BK is that it will be getting wort at 150+ so the time to get to boil will not justify having two elements. here is write up of my control panel..

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27904

at the bottom of my post you can see that with both of bobby's elements they are pulling 44amps.

if you are building your panel go with DIN RAIL !!! it makes your life much easier i think.
 
ParadiseBeer said:
I have two 5500 SS elements in HLT from bobby. i have tested my system with 20gallon HLT and both elements on with my 50amp control panel. So far with my testing i have not had issues. you should be good with running two. I went with two elements in my HTL and one in my boil kettle. The reason i only use one in my BK is that it will be getting wort at 150+ so the time to get to boil will not justify having two elements. here is write up of my control panel..

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27904

at the bottom of my post you can see that with both of bobby's elements they are pulling 44amps.

if you are building your panel go with DIN RAIL !!! it makes your life much easier i think.
Click to expand...


What does one do to go with din rail? Does that mean the contactors and such clip into a din rail?
 
yes the contacts, breakers and terminal blocks all clip in... and a relay if you are going that route. I use a relay to make sure the elements are off before the control panel will start. I recommend you check out the parts at ebrewsupply . com. The price on the 63amp contactor is almost worth going that route alone. if you are going to use four 30 or 25amp breakers for you elements then you can get them on ebay near the same price. the breakers that ebrewsupply has are better quality then you get on ebay. Did you see the inside of my panel, all DIN RAIL.
 
ParadiseBeer said:
yes the contacts, breakers and terminal blocks all clip in... and a relay if you are going that route. I use a relay to make sure the elements are off before the control panel will start. I recommend you check out the parts at ebrewsupply . com. The price on the 63amp contactor is almost worth going that route alone. if you are going to use four 30 or 25amp breakers for you elements then you can get them on ebay near the same price. the breakers that ebrewsupply has are better quality then you get on ebay. Did you see the inside of my panel, all DIN RAIL.
Click to expand...

No I haven't. Gotta link?

So I have to buy parts specifically for din or I can attach din rail clips to standard parts?
 
here is a link to the din rail hes talking about along with some breakers that work with it...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DIN-RAI...662?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337c682f06

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271533564977?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SQUARE-D-30...236?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339cf6024c
places like ebrew all have at least a 35% markup on all the kits they sell....
to each is own but I would rather spend the 30 minutes to shop for everything individually and save a few hundred bucks on the build..

what functions does this $1600. panel kit serve
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/asb-pid-0322.html?SID=7tg0t7qd8v7jnus4gh3hqeu0u0.

That this sub $300 panel doesnt have??

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/facelift-my-control-panel-497593/

Infact the panel I built has more functionality... And there a lot of room between the $300 bucks or so my panel cost and the $1,600- 2k kits out there to take liberties and make it fancy....

Why go through middlemen who just compile it into kits and charge double? there are products and services offered by many sellers who sponser this forum and many of them are very fair deals but to me when someone just orders a bunch of off the shelf hardware from china and throws it in a box and doubles their investment by selling to an unknowing customer thats not a very fair deal to the customer...again just MHO
Some of these kits seemed to be designed more for eye candy than practical function... even if thats your thing, I would think that person would have a lot more fun sourcing and building your own panel than assembling someone elses.

everything in this kit can be bought for about $100 including shipping...http://www.ebrewsupply.com/shop/ebrew-kits/ebrew-pid-kits/bcs-2-element-2-pumps-30a-kit-516.html
 
Bummer. I hope it's not stuck in the ports that are undergoing the slow down slash strike. Thanks for the update, Bobby!
 
I'd like to order one of those rippley thingamabobs from ya.
5500 w ULWD rippley.
:drunk:
 
BTizo said:
Bummer. I hope it's not stuck in the ports that are undergoing the slow down slash strike. Thanks for the update, Bobby!
Click to expand...

China was actually pretty much closed for business last week because of thier spring holiday not the smartest time for them to take a strike. ( I see that this isn't related to Bobby's delays from the US manufactuer he used)
 

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