I got a cheap kettle, 4.5 gallons, that I was going to use on my kitchen stove. But it is pretty thin and the bottom is not completely flat so that when it is on the glass cooktop only the outer rim of the pot is touching and this is killing the heat transfer from the element to the pot!
Now I have read post that say "oh no.... you HAVE to use a ULD element or you'll scorce you wort!" And it seems most poeple use only LD elements for the 3000 W range.
Now I have a electric jug that was destine for the bin but I saved it, ripped it apart and now have a small(ish) 2400 W element that would fit the bill for this pot and get me off the BBQ (which is not really the best solution to the concave bottom issue). My concerns are all the "must have a ULD" posts. has anyone ever use a electric kettle/jug element to boil wort before?
I just ran a water test (in a 1 litre tin bofore I hack up my pot I wanted to make sure it would seal/work) and the when turned on bubble apair on the element pretty quickly, is this the norm for LD/ULD elements aswell?
Any info would be great.
Cheers
Now I have read post that say "oh no.... you HAVE to use a ULD element or you'll scorce you wort!" And it seems most poeple use only LD elements for the 3000 W range.
Now I have a electric jug that was destine for the bin but I saved it, ripped it apart and now have a small(ish) 2400 W element that would fit the bill for this pot and get me off the BBQ (which is not really the best solution to the concave bottom issue). My concerns are all the "must have a ULD" posts. has anyone ever use a electric kettle/jug element to boil wort before?
I just ran a water test (in a 1 litre tin bofore I hack up my pot I wanted to make sure it would seal/work) and the when turned on bubble apair on the element pretty quickly, is this the norm for LD/ULD elements aswell?
Any info would be great.
Cheers