Thanks for your cooperation. I just put my order in.
I will be waiting to see the finished product. You will have to post a picture of your rig when you are done.
Mark
Thanks for your cooperation. I just put my order in.
I will be waiting to see the finished product. You will have to post a picture of your rig when you are done.
Mark
Now we just need wood blocks shaped like Legos and even the electric set ups will be an easy creation, hahajohns said:Not only is it for beer its also like a huge erection set for adults.
Still waiting on casters and jet burners to show up in the mail, but I'm getting close. I've still gotta tap into the home natural gas line too.
Where did you find diamond plate that size?
Looks great, make sure you have the proper btu rating by the time you hit your burners. But I did the gravity fed design.
I'm actually a little concerned about this. I've got 1/2" pipe into my laundry room that I'm going to tie into. I'm guessing that worse case, I'll have to make sure the dryer is off while brewing, but hard to tell without firing it up, right?
stratslinger said:Two questions though:
1) How did you accurately get the 45 degree angle cuts for your kettle supports and what kind of strut fittings did you use to mount them (ok, maybe that's two and not one?)?
2) Why two pumps for a two tier? Is it simply to save time from changing the connections in between operations, or are there certain operations where you need to have both pumps firing at once using this rig?
does anyone have a Google SketchUp file for their single-tier build that they would be willing to share?
i'm just starting the planning phase of my rig and was hoping to take inspiration for others' work. still learning sketchup, so far so good...
thanks!
Lowes is currently closing out 10' sections of electro galvanized superstrut. The regular price was $18.69. Closeout price was $11.21.
I found a store in Huntsville that had 12 left and told them I wanted 8 @ $11.21 then talked them into throwing in the other 4 for nothing to close out their inventory. That ended up in a cost of $7.47 per 10' section.
I don't know if any lowes stores in your areas still have this but if they do, it's a good deal. Item number is 167125.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_167125-53911-ZA12HS10EG_0
your brutus clone looks sweet. The addition of the movable lcd panal give it a nice touch. Can I ask why in some places there is only one corner bolt in that side of the corner? Also what kind of controlers will you have on your rig?
OK - this thread is starting to drive me nuts. It's been 3-weeks and I haven't ordered anything besides a pump.
All I had available locally was the galv. SS.
I am not sure I have ever heard of Galvanized Stainless Steel. In fact, water proofing stainless steel is kind of pointless. Did you get galvanized steel (Not stainless)?
How is the rig holding up for you guys that are using galvanized steel? I know, in theory, you can "burn off" the zinc but are you really sure more isn't going to burn off and release the toxic fumes when you are using the stand while brewing?
Also, once the zinc is burned off, it no longer has any water resistant property. Are you worried about rust at all with all that liquid/steam on brew stand? Particles have a tendency to migrate and I am paranoid about using something that isn't stainless on my rig. Is the idea to replace parts that have rusted on a regular cycle?
Just interested how galvanized steel is holding up so I can take it into account when I build my rig in the coming weeks?
Since I haven't brewed on mine yet, I can't really say, but since mine is all electric, I'm not really worried.
Brewed on mine twice now. The zinc will burn off and flake away and honestly its 12 gauge steel. I don't suspect that the steel will weaken to the point of being a concern for many years. The first time you use it give yourself some good ventilation and you should be fine.
I'm not worried about the steel giving way. Strut is perfect for this application structurally speaking.
But I think you helped me make a decision on this. The last thing I want is something flaking away on rig that can migrate into the brew. That and the fact that once the zinc has flaked off the bare metal is prone to rust (lots of liquid and steam around) which can also migrate into the brew.
Having said that, this stuff is EASY to replace if it becomes a problem.
Great rigs all around.
Where did you get the stainless strut from? Good price?
I'm actually a little concerned about this. I've got 1/2" pipe into my laundry room that I'm going to tie into. I'm guessing that worse case, I'll have to make sure the dryer is off while brewing, but hard to tell without firing it up, right?
Has anyone thought of using these for their castors
http://www.strutchannelfittings.com/THK-1260-THREADED-ROD-BKT-38-12-STEPS-FOR-BOTH-THREAD-SIZES-2-HOLE-ATTACHMENT_p_802.html
I am still debating on them.
-G
If you search back through I detailed pretty well how I did it, and I think it's a pretty robust setup. I too have a 1/2" NG line right inside my garage, in the laundry room. I do not have a dryer hooked up to it (ours is electric) so perfect to use for the rig. I got the good NG QD fittings ($$) but wanted to have real solid shutoff QDs for when I unhook and hook everything up. I went with simple PVC rubber air hose which has no reaction to NG (do not get butyl rubber, not compatible at all). My theory is that I'm always with in a few steps of my rig when gas is going to it, so as long as you have good QDs with a solid hose that is compatible with the gas there should be no issues. It's only hooked up to the gas maybe 3 hours every few weeks. Cheap, flexible, tough, and works great. I went with 1/2" ID hose, and I can run two 10-tip burners, but that is the max. I would guess you would not want the dryer on when you're brewing.
I did not get their casters, but ordered a bunch of bolts, nuts and brackets from them. No complaints!
I wasn't referring to G-P LLC's casters, what I linked is a threaded adapter that could work for attaching threaded casters.
Very cool - thanks for sharing that! I still like the idea though, of either using the powder coated strut, or the SS strut for those parts of the structure most closely exposed to the flames. Not so much due to zinc-oxide exposure now, but more because I figure that way you'd be most likely to keep those parts protected from rust long-term.
Very cool - thanks for sharing that! I still like the idea though, of either using the powder coated strut, or the SS strut for those parts of the structure most closely exposed to the flames. Not so much due to zinc-oxide exposure now, but more because I figure that way you'd be most likely to keep those parts protected from rust long-term.
Enter your email address to join: