I just ordered the FTSS heat/cool kit for my new 1/2BBL BME and a heat conversion kit for the 14 gal chronical. Now I can turn the heat down in my garage a little lower without worry and I can also do a saison in the winter and keep the temp pretty consistent.
They are doing great stuff!
I just finished setting up my 5 gallon cip for the fermenter.
I have a 14gal SS Brewtech standard model and have been heating with a heating pad mounted at the cone and cooling with GottaBrew jacket. So far I can warm it fine but have only been able to cool to 40 degrees with ice water. I have a chiller (same as OP) on order but they are backlogged.
I have pretty much convinced my wife I need a second fermenter and I think I am going to splurge and get the 14gal BME with the full heat/cool FTSS package.
How hard is it to clean the heat exchanger in the fermenter? Do you leave it in the fermenter or remove it to clean it?
If you are referring to the FTSS stainless coil then, you can leave it in the fermenter to clean. I just recently modified my 7 gallon and 14 gallon units to mount the coils inside of them (drill two holes in the side walls of the fermenter to mount the coils). I use a non abrasive plastic brush to knock off any loose gunk, fill the conical part way with hot water and PBW and let it soak with the lid closed (let the steam do some work as well). I'll leave it like this while I clean / prep other parts of my brewery. By the time I get back to the conicals, everything is loose and blasts off with some hot water from the hose and light scrubbing.
Very nice set up! I just put my whole 14 gallon Chronical in my upright freezer. I have a hot and cold temperature controller so I have a small heater inside the freezer as well. I can maintain a fermentation within 2 degrees from the initial fermentation through the complete fermentation and on through lagering no matter how hot or cold it is outside the freezer.
I live in Illinois and although my garage is heated, I only keep it at about 45 during the winter. The heater helps when I want to warm a lager to do the diacetyl rest when brewing a lager. It also helps when doing an ale in the winter. The freezer maintains the temperature holding the temp down while it initially ferments but once fermentation slows, the temperature would get too low without the heater in there because the garage is only 45 degrees. It works great.
The other convenient feature of this chiller is that it came plumbed from the factory with 3/8 barbs (more than likely for a glycol draught tower), so the chiller links right up to the FTSS coil, no modifications needed. I chose to go with thick wall silicone tubing (3/16 wall), due to the fact it remains extremely flexible even at sub-freezing temps, plus its an added layer of insulation. It wont harden like PVC or vinyl tubing.
Has anyone been able to find a source for the 3/16" wall tubing? I did a quick google search but I am coming up with the thinner stuff.
Here you go... 10 feet for one loop, 25 feet for two loops...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMYWUW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Cheers,
Michael
I'm assuming he's pumping wort in and out. That's what I'll be doing since I'm going to be brewing 1 bbl batches.
For those of you with a glycol reservoir in a cooler. If you should redo your build, would you choose to drill holes in the lid or in the side of the cooler? I'm opting for a beer chiller (http://www.lindr.cz/products/pygmy-25) as chilling source and I plan to control two fermenters from this build:
View attachment 347977
I'm also a bit worried I will ruin the insulation of my Coleman cooler when also having to accommodate power cables for three pumps. How do you handle that challenge?
For those of you with a glycol reservoir in a cooler. If you should redo your build, would you choose to drill holes in the lid or in the side of the cooler? I'm opting for a beer chiller (http://www.lindr.cz/products/pygmy-25) as chilling source and I plan to control two fermenters from this build:
View attachment 347977
I'm also a bit worried I will ruin the insulation of my Coleman cooler when also having to accommodate power cables for three pumps. How do you handle that challenge?
You may be aware of this but the other option is to just use one large pump and an external manifold with ballvalves or solenoid valves which operate on the temp controller... its is simpler than it sounds to make and you use dual contact relays to turn on the main pump at the same time is anyone or more of the valves... It has been working good for me so far.
I drilled 4 holes into the side of my cooler, closer to the top of the cooler above the water line. I used PVC threaded nipples as "bulkheads" to go through the wall and tightened everything down with teflon. It's not the best setup, but it's working out great. If your temp probe is a wired one, just notch the top lip of the cooler like I did and run it directly into the water (that is if the temp probe end is sealed).
I've been coming up with a plan to change all that and go with a one pump solution to continuously pump water through my chiller (which is an aquarium chiller) going through a manifold. From the manifold add 12VDC motorized valves where the outlet of the valve will go to the chilling coils in the feremnters and the motor on the valves will connect to the FTSS controller using the "Pump" power supply port. When the FTSS goes to turn on it's own pump, it will actually power the motorized valve and open it to allow coolant to the fermenter. Once it goes to turn off it's "pump", it will cut off 12VDC to that motorized valve and it will close.
I used this guide to build my manifold (got it from another member here who shared it in their 4 plastic conical build... anyway I leave the bypass valve cracked open just a bit...Thanks for the tip! I did think of a manifold solution. But if possible I'd like to avoid it being too complicated and less error prone. Do you have a dump valve in case one of your solenoid's fails?
Thanks, that looks quite similar to what I was thinking.
Have you been able to do lagers with your aquarium chiller? How about cold crashing?
I used this guide to build my manifold (got it from another member here who shared it in their 4 plastic conical build... anyway I leave the bypass valve cracked open just a bit...
I do use a beer line chiller with a powerful 220v pump built in it so... I see it as more reliable myself since aquarium pumps and powerheads have a limited life when powered on and off , especially under load...
I use STC 1000+ temp controllers and 4 relays I bought for like $6 a piece and a 24v powersupply... the 24v valves (they come in 12v too) were only $2.19 a piece shipped so... there are some pics in my thread below.
my system is all closed up but I will see if I can draw up a diagram to explain it better...I'm kind of interested to do a similar build now. The reason is I'm changing my cooler to one with a build in pump. I'm a complete beginner when it comes to electricity. I have wired a STC 1000 before, but that's about it. Could you perhaps take some pictures of your wiring and setup as a guide? Thanks!
my system is all closed up but I will see if I can draw up a diagram to explain it better...
well I use relays that have a double set of contacts which basically turn on 2 things at once when they are activated... one set of contacts controls the main pump which recirculates the glycol through the manifold with the 4 valves in it and the other turns on the valve which allows flow to that conical... so is more than one stc is calling for cooling at the same time then 2 out of my 4 valves are open on my main manifold... the pump will run until all of the stc's are happy and turn off the colling signal..Any simple drawing or other guidelines will also be more than welcome. Don't know where to start to be honest.
One thing I do not understand is how to have two sources (STC 1000's) control the pump? What if both fermenters require cooling at the same time?
well I use relays that have a double set of contacts which basically turn on 2 things at once when they are activated... one set of contacts controls the main pump which recirculates the glycol through the manifold with the 4 valves in it and the other turns on the valve which allows flow to that conical... so is more than one stc is calling for cooling at the same time then 2 out of my 4 valves are open on my main manifold... the pump will run until all of the stc's are happy and turn off the colling signal..
One set of contacts on my dual relays is for the 240v pump and the other has 24vDC going through it to turn on my 24v soleniod valve.
my heaters are 24v as well so I use the 24v powersupply to power them if needed too... there are a few pics towards the end of my build thread below.
Process wise I fully understand your setup. That's also what I am aiming for. But putting the dual contact relays together with the STC 1000 and solenoid valves is where I'm lost.
I sent you a PM. Sorry to join in late. I didn't read entire thread to see how many conicals you intend to chill. If you are just doing one, you really shouldn't need a solenoid or any valves. The pump is the "valve" and can be controlled with the native relay inside the STC-1000. I suspect also that the chiller could probably be controlled with a second STC-1000 and its native relay as long as it isn't pulling a great deal of amperage. Compressors often pull more amps during start up then settle down once running. I don't know what you are using for your glycol chiller. If you have a commercial 220v power pack, then it is probably a better idea to use a secondary relay that is more robust. If you really wanted to get cheap though, just operate the pump 100% of the time without a controller and buy one STC-1000 to run the glycol chiller and set the glycol bath for the temp you want your beer to ferment at. Might need a couple degrees of offset depending on the efficiency and thermodynamics of your setup. Also in the long run, this will probably shorten the life of the pump compared to the intermittent pump with two controllers.
The plan is to control two ½ Barrel SS Brew Tech fermenters. Hence the talk about solenoids. I'm aiming at this chiller: https://brewhaequipment.com/blogs/brewinfo/37593281-overview-of-the-water-beer-and-wort-chiller
Do note it's quite a lot cheaper in Europe where I live:
https://www.ich-zapfe.de/bierzapfen/untertheken-wasserkuehlgeraet-utwk-as-110-2-leitig/a-452456/
It has a built in pump (which can be controlled by an STC 1000) and reservoir. Would just have the chiller turned on constantly and then turn on the circulation pump when needed.
Stainless steel electric controlled normally closed ball valves sounds like a good idea.
The pump is not on a constant run though. That's my challenge. To simultaneously activate a valve (for the relevant fermenter) and the pump using the STC 1000.
What are the specs on the pump? is it controlled by the glycol chiller or is it independent of the glycol system? How do you set the temp for the glycol bath or is it fixed at the factory?
I use plastic solenoid valves.... been using them for about 6 months and they have been isn constant use much of that time...
here are the 24v dc valves I used , they were $2.19 with shipping but this seller has them for $2.18 plus $1.39 shipping... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-So...899630?hash=item3cf412a22e:g:k48AAOSwEeFVLdjI
.. not sure why you would want stainless? the wort never comes in contact with these only water/glycol..
Enter your email address to join: