First Corney Keg: "Out" Pin Doesn't Work

Before I drive 60 miles one way to get this problem checked at MLHBS I thought maybe folks here would have some advice.

Last night I intended to keg for the first time. Hooked everything up, the CO2 is working b/c the release valve on the keg is able to release CO2 after I have added it. The problem is that my "Out" pin is not distributing liquid (I tested with SaniStar) through to the tap.

I can press down on the "Out" pin and I hear CO2 escaping so I assume the problem is the connection between the "Out" pin and the piece that connects it with the tap line.

Any suggestions of what else (besides mechanical failure) is going on here?

You sure you got it pushed down tight enough? That happened to me when I first got my keg.

If it's not that then can you post a pic or two so we can see what your setup looks like?

maltoftheearth said:

I can press down on the "Out" pin and I hear CO2 escaping so I assume the problem is the connection between the "Out" pin and the piece that connects it with the tap line.

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If you are depressing the out poppet, and the keg is pressurized, beer should be escaping. You have the long dip tube in the out post that reaches close to the bottom of the keg, yes?

MeatyPortion said:

You sure you got it pushed down tight enough? That happened to me when I first got my keg.

If it's not that then can you post a pic or two so we can see what your setup looks like?

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I should take a picture of my hand and post that, my palm is all marked-up from having tried to push the tap connection onto the "out" pin. I will say that the connection on the "in" pin looks like it is sitting just a slight bit lower on the pin but only very slight. Will try and post pics later.

The long dip tube is reaching into the bottom of the container, yes. I checked that last night after removing the SaniStar solution from the keg.

maltoftheearth said:

The long dip tube is reaching into the bottom of the container, yes. I checked that last night after removing the SaniStar solution from the keg.

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The key point to his question on this was to ask if the long dip tube is attached to the OUT post and not the IN post. The short tube should be on the IN post. Also, the black connector (assuming ball lock and not pin lock kegs) should be on the OUT and the white connector should be on the IN post. The other thing to look at is the posts themselves. One will be notched around the base and one will not. The one with notches should be on the IN post. The posts look the same and the connectors look to be interchangeable, but they are not. The wrong connector may go on the wrong post, but have fun getting it back off

IrregularPulse said:

The key point to his question on this was to ask if the long dip tube is attached to the OUT post and not the IN post. The short tube should be on the IN post. Also, the black connector (assuming ball lock and not pin lock kegs) should be on the OUT and the white connector should be on the IN post. The other thing to look at is the posts themselves. One will be notched around the base and one will not. The one with notches should be on the IN post. The posts look the same and the connectors look to be interchangeable, but they are not. The wrong connector may go on the wrong post, but have fun getting it back off

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Correct. If the posts and dip tubes are properly configured, I do not understand how one could "hear CO2 escaping" when depressing the out poppet rather than get a squirt of beer.

It sounds like the gas dip tub is on the beer out post.

IrregularPulse said:

The key point to his question on this was to ask if the long dip tube is attached to the OUT post and not the IN post. The short tube should be on the IN post. Also, the black connector (assuming ball lock and not pin lock kegs) should be on the OUT and the white connector should be on the IN post. The other thing to look at is the posts themselves. One will be notched around the base and one will not. The one with notches should be on the IN post. The posts look the same and the connectors look to be interchangeable, but they are not. The wrong connector may go on the wrong post, but have fun getting it back off

Click to expand...

The long tube is attached to the OUT post, black connector is on the OUT post.

I will check on the notched post to ensure that it is on the IN side. When you say "notched post" you men the removable top of the pin, correct?

I did remove the OUT post last night to check for damage and it was fairly easily removed ...

Hmmm. If there is liquid covering the bottom, it's impossible for gas to come out the "out" and no liquid.

You're apply gas to the "in", and when you put the black QD and beer line and tap on the "out", no liquid comes out? I'm just trying to get a clear picture of what's going on.

When you take off the posts, do you have the post and a little poppit inside? With a rubber oring on it and a spring? With little feet that "sit" in the post? And of course then the long diptube with an o-ring at the top.

maltoftheearth said:

I will check on the notched post to ensure that it is on the IN side. When you say "notched post" you men the removable top of the pin, correct?

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This notch:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/beer-out-disconnect-not-seating-226725/#post2664814

maltoftheearth said:

I did remove the OUT post last night to check for damage and it was fairly easily removed ...

Click to expand...

If it was easy to remove, it could be gas escaping from the lower end of the post. Remove the post and lift the dip tube a bit and inspect the rubber O-ring. Make sure it is soft, and not brittle or cracked. You might even use a bit of keg lube if you have it (or vaseline in a pinch) to lightly coat the gasket, then tighten the post back down.

Are you getting any beer to flow when you press down on the center of the out post?

Assuming the dip tube is in the right place on the out-post side, double check your gaskets. There should be small rubber o-rings on the in-tube and the out-tube (the long one and the short one). They seal the dip tubes to the keg itself. Check that the o-rings are in good condition, and if they are original to the keg, replace them. These things are cheap. Check the surfaces that the dip tubes touch the keg against for damage that might diminish the o-rings effectiveness.

I'm not sure what else to say about it- these kegs are very simple pieces of equipment! Verify that the keg holds pressure. Put the gas-in quick connect on by itself, with no beer quick-connect (black). When you turn on the gas, you should notice the lid settling slightly or creaking with the added pressure. Turn off the gas and pull the pressure relief valve on the lid just to confirm that the keg is indeed pressurized. If it is pressurized, gently press a screwdriver or pen or something small onto the liquid-out poppet in the center of the top of the liquid-out post. You should get some liquid contents from inside the keg spraying out. If this works, then put the black/beer quick connect on and try out the picnic tap.

Is the out (black) connector new? Has it been taken apart? Does it still have the clear poppet in it? If you have c02 pressure, and all post's/diptubes are in their proper place, there"s no way stuff won't come out.


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