Help needed with CO2 leak

I have gone through almost 2 full CO2 tanks before I could find this leak...yes i'm a noob when it comes to kegging but I guess learning the hard way is sometimes best, right?: I've included a picture below, but what I am asking you experienced keggers out there is i'm not sure if this leak points to the grey ball lock disconnect that needs replacing or the o-ring that is on the ball lock post. It only leaks/bubbles when the disconnect is on it, when I remove it and spray the post with soapy water, it does not leak. Please Help thank you!

Were it me I'd replace the O ring on the post, and I'd probably open up the disconnect and ensure that the plastic bit is seated correctly just for peace of mind.

It looks like a screw on gas in fitting. I think the easiest thing would be to replace it. You could also buy parts to repair it to have as a backup.

The other thing you can do is hit the keg with CO2 and then remove the Gas in side. I have a number of valves on my keezer so i can shut off zones so if there is a leak it does not depressurize all my kegs and the CO2 bottle. I try not to leave the CO2 bottle valve open but just on occasion hit the kegs with CO2 then turn it off.

dryboroughbrewing said:

Were it me I'd replace the O ring on the post, and I'd probably open up the disconnect and ensure that the plastic bit is seated correctly just for peace of mind.

Click to expand...

Upon closer inspection, I noticed a very small tear in the O-ring on the post, so I'm going to replace this and re-check. I didn't even know the the disconnect opened up, need to play around with it a little and figure that out. Thanks for the help!

Photopilot said:

It looks like a screw on gas in fitting. I think the easiest thing would be to replace it. You could also buy parts to repair it to have as a backup.

The other thing you can do is hit the keg with CO2 and then remove the Gas in side. I have a number of valves on my keezer so i can shut off zones so if there is a leak it does not depressurize all my kegs and the CO2 bottle. I try not to leave the CO2 bottle valve open but just on occasion hit the kegs with CO2 then turn it off.

Click to expand...

Slowly but surely, over time, try to build up a "supply locker" of common spare parts you'll commonly need. O ring kits, a ball lock connector (gas and liquid), keg posts and poppets, regulator to CO2 tank washer......and on. Anytime I have a leak I first think O ring and keg seal lube. Occasionally I'll have a component need like in your case, I'd replace that ball lock connector with it leaking like that. You could retry seating it down firmly, and make sure that it is on the correct post and not reversed. (We have all done this)

You wasted two tanks of CO2. A few spare parts would be cheaper. You'll need them from time to time.

beerman123 said:

Upon closer inspection, I noticed a very small tear in the O-ring on the post, so I'm going to replace this and re-check. I didn't even know the the disconnect opened up, need to play around with it a little and figure that out. Thanks for the help!

Click to expand...

When you replace the post O-ring, do you have any keg lube? That is very helpful to keep everything sealed.

I'd still be suspicious of that ball lock QD connector. If you end up wasting another tank of gas, you could have bought several of them.

beerman123 said:

Upon closer inspection, I noticed a very small tear in the O-ring on the post, so I'm going to replace this and re-check. I didn't even know the the disconnect opened up, need to play around with it a little and figure that out. Thanks for the help!

Click to expand...

Good catch. My advice to replace the gas connector might have been a waste of effort. Buy a stack of all the o-rings needed for kegs as that is likely the culprit when there is a leak.

I complained about the cost of the tiny container of keg lube when I bought it. 10 years later the tub is still half full. It will help protect your o-rings and make sealing corney lids easier.

Photopilot said:

Good catch. My advice to replace the gas connector might have been a waste of effort. Buy a stack of all the o-rings needed for kegs as that is likely the culprit when there is a leak.

I complained about the cost of the tiny container of keg lube when I bought it. 10 years later the tub is still half full. It will help protect your o-rings and make sealing corney lids easier.

Click to expand...

Good advice, those sets of 5 O-Rings are only a few bucks, but worth their weight in gold when you need them. Most online beer suppliers and select local beer shops keep these sets in stock. They are especially handy when you grow your keg collection as the first thing I do is replace all 5 o rings w/o question.

Once you know the sizes for the o-rings (do a google search, websites have them listed everywhere), you can easily get the o-rings from Amazon, and if you are a prime member, most of them are also prime eligible.

Before Amazon started carrying o-rings, the only good source for these was mcmaster. When you search, you may find mcmaster part numbers, just use those part numbers to find the dash number, and then you have the exact size you need to find.

I personally have gone to silicone lid o-rings and post o-rings, and double seal o-rings for the dip tubes. I use silicone for the lid mainly to keep track of the ones I've replaced since they are red/orange (I have around 90 kegs, so it can be a bit difficult to keep track of everything, especially small parts like this).

Morrey said:

[...]I'd still be suspicious of that ball lock QD connector.[...]

Click to expand...

Me, too. From that picture I'd suspect a cracked QD...

Cheers!

Morrey said:

When you replace the post O-ring, do you have any keg lube? That is very helpful to keep everything sealed.

I'd still be suspicious of that ball lock QD connector. If you end up wasting another tank of gas, you could have bought several of them.

Click to expand...

replacement o-rings and keg lube ordered.

Have fought this same battle myself, most recently came back from a 10 day 4th of July vacation to an empty 10# CO2 tank and flat kegs Where does everyone come down on having a bunch of extra cheap plastic QD's (and O-rings/keg lube, feel like that's established) vs. springing for the metal QD's and hopefully not having to replace them anywhere near as often?

SGTSparty said:

Have fought this same battle myself, most recently came back from a 10 day 4th of July vacation to an empty 10# CO2 tank and flat kegs Where does everyone come down on having a bunch of extra cheap plastic QD's (and O-rings/keg lube, feel like that's established) vs. springing for the metal QD's and hopefully not having to replace them anywhere near as often?

Click to expand...

This is one reason why I don't leave my CO2 connected. I only turn on CO2 when I need it. This helps my CO2 tanks last as long as possible, waste as little CO2, and I don't have emergencies with CO2 (I have a number of backup tanks).

I only have two stainless disconnects. They are for two direct draw gadgets that I made with perlick 650ss faucets so that I could sample from the kegs that I don't have on tap, as well as when I bring kegs to brewclub for sampling. I wanted to have each unit be as much stainless as possible, so I sprung for it for them.

Other than those two, I only have plastic disconnects. I probably have at least two dozen sets for both ball lock and pin lock at this point. I have the flared ones, and I put a John Guest fitting on it so that I can very easily disconnect and reconnect tubing and change out the QD without tools.

SGTSparty said:

Have fought this same battle myself, most recently came back from a 10 day 4th of July vacation to an empty 10# CO2 tank and flat kegs Where does everyone come down on having a bunch of extra cheap plastic QD's (and O-rings/keg lube, feel like that's established) vs. springing for the metal QD's and hopefully not having to replace them anywhere near as often?

Click to expand...

I've never broken a plastic disconnect. If they are hard to put on, then it's the wrong post, or the o-ring needs to be lubed more. They should be opened and cleaned after every keg too. The steel disconnect cost is too high. Good money that can be spent elsewhere.


OP: Plastic disconnects are only $3 at Ritebrew, and buy your o-rings from McMaster. Super cheap.

k1ngl1ves said:

I've never broken a plastic disconnect. If they are hard to put on, then it's the wrong post, or the o-ring needs to be lubed more. They should be opened and cleaned after every keg too. The steel disconnect cost is too high. Good money that can be spent elsewhere.


OP: Plastic disconnects are only $3 at Ritebrew, and buy your o-rings from McMaster. Super cheap.

Click to expand...

Great point about taking the QD apart (30 seconds maybe?) cleaning off that tiny seal and the center post, then reassembling. All those that do this religiously please raise your hands. Hummm, I don't see many hands up out there! LOL.

Seriously, that is a stellar maintenance point. SS is very expensive and I don't see the price differential value provided the QD is serviced properly.