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HappyDrunk

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So I have read several hundred pages of information on this site, but this is my first post. I am obviously a beginner. I made the WCPA that came with my Mr. Beer kit on 1/3/12 and bottled on 1/17/12. Fermentation seemed very slow and did not produce much activity (krausen) at all. I primed with 1.5, 2, and 2.5 tsp of table sugar, and labeled them accordingly. Today is the 25th and I decided to try one (primed with 2tsp) .. expecting a flat, sweet, cidery beer.

I was actually impressed. It was pretty sweet and cidery (as expected - it does need to condition at LEAST two more weeks), but very well carbonated.

I made several errors on my first attempt everyone reading this should avoid:

1. I used tap water on brew day.
2. I used table sugar when bottling.
3. I shook the bottles IMMEDIATELY after bottling.
4. I accidentally exposed them to light for about 4 hours one day.

Still, even with all those errors, it tastes like sweet beer. I'm pretty happy with myself for making something that is at least alcoholic and carbonated.

My second batch was Whispering Wheat Weizenbier w/ Golden Wheat. I went and bought some bottled water for this one, and followed the directions to the letter on brew day (1/19/12). I got a nice krausen this time after only ONE day. By day 4 it had settled down. I am now on day 6, and will probably bottle on day 10 or 14.

In anticipation of my third batch, I found an LHBS and bought a premium refill of pilothouse pilsner, a bottle capper and bottle caps (because the PET bottles will still be in use when I need to bottle batch #2), 6 grams of Munton's pitching yeast, and some corn sugar. The yeast and corn sugar will be used for batch #3, the bottles and caps will be used for #2 and #3.

Now for a few questions:

1. Given how well the sample from batch #1 was carbonated after only EIGHT days, should I not shake the bottle directly after bottling any more? It seems like it worked pretty well. I know there is some fear of oxidation, but I didn't taste anything in my first sample.

2. Should I use the entire packet of Munton's (6g) yeast PLUS the two generic packets that come with the Mr. B. refill, or just the Munton's?

3. The guy at my LHBS said they would deduct the $20 I spent on the bottle capper if I decide to buy a real 5 gal. kit. The only reason I didn't want to is mainly that I want a glass fermenter so I can see the fermentation process, and this one came with a plastic one. Should I care to see it?

Sorry for the rambling post. I just wanted to introduce myself, and explain the pitfalls of a beginner for the thousandth time on this forum. I need a beer now .... :mug:
 
So I have read several hundred pages of information on this site, but this is my first post. I am obviously a beginner. I made the WCPA that came with my Mr. Beer kit on 1/3/12 and bottled on 1/17/12. Fermentation seemed very slow and did not produce much activity (krausen) at all. I primed with 1.5, 2, and 2.5 tsp of table sugar, and labeled them accordingly. Today is the 25th and I decided to try one (primed with 2tsp) .. expecting a flat, sweet, cidery beer.

I was actually impressed. It was pretty sweet and cidery (as expected - it does need to condition at LEAST two more weeks), but very well carbonated.

I made several errors on my first attempt everyone reading this should avoid:

1. I used tap water on brew day.
2. I used table sugar when bottling.
3. I shook the bottles IMMEDIATELY after bottling.
4. I accidentally exposed them to light for about 4 hours one day.

Still, even with all those errors, it tastes like sweet beer. I'm pretty happy with myself for making something that is at least alcoholic and carbonated.

My second batch was Whispering Wheat Weizenbier w/ Golden Wheat. I went and bought some bottled water for this one, and followed the directions to the letter on brew day (1/19/12). I got a nice krausen this time after only ONE day. By day 4 it had settled down. I am now on day 6, and will probably bottle on day 10 or 14.

In anticipation of my third batch, I found an LHBS and bought a premium refill of pilothouse pilsner, a bottle capper and bottle caps (because the PET bottles will still be in use when I need to bottle batch #2), 6 grams of Munton's pitching yeast, and some corn sugar. The yeast and corn sugar will be used for batch #3, the bottles and caps will be used for #2 and #3.

Now for a few questions:

1. Given how well the sample from batch #1 was carbonated after only EIGHT days, should I not shake the bottle directly after bottling any more? It seems like it worked pretty well. I know there is some fear of oxidation, but I didn't taste anything in my first sample.

2. Should I use the entire packet of Munton's (6g) yeast PLUS the two generic packets that come with the Mr. B. refill, or just the Munton's?

3. The guy at my LHBS said they would deduct the $20 I spent on the bottle capper if I decide to buy a real 5 gal. kit. The only reason I didn't want to is mainly that I want a glass fermenter so I can see the fermentation process, and this one came with a plastic one. Should I care to see it?

Sorry for the rambling post. I just wanted to introduce myself, and explain the pitfalls of a beginner for the thousandth time on this forum. I need a beer now .... :mug:

Well, regarding your "errors"...

1. Nothing wrong with tap water if you have good tap water.
2. Table sugar for bottling isn't that big a deal.
3. If the head space is correct, there probably isn't enough oxygen to make a huge difference. I don't know that shaking is necessary...over a 3 week period, I would think that it would disperse on it's own.
4. Light is the enemy, but it is necessary as well. 4 hours isn't that long...especially with brown bottles.

On to your questions...

1. If you can, I would batch prime rather than bottle prime. You get much more consistent results.
2. I would just use the Muntons, but would rehydrate prior to pitching.
3. Most of us (I believe) ferment in plastic buckets. Being able to watch means that you're letting in light as well...besides the buckets are cheaper and easier to carry! :D
 
Welcome to the forum and brewing

1-Dont shake the bottle and 1.5 2 and 2.5 is a lot of sugar to prime with I would get those in the fridge as soon as they are carbed like now. Where did you get those numbers?Are they different size bottles? Gennerally you want 3/4-1 tsp per 12 oz bottle.Ideally you want to go by weight for priming sugar.If they keep carbing you would end up getting gushers and eventually bottle bombs.Did you get the plastic twist cap bottles?

2. JUst use the muntons Is it the gold one? if not the muntons plain is better for non all malt beers.Get some nottingham,o5 or 04 in the future.Dabepending on your expected abv or origional gravity reading taken with a hydrometer or recipe you will want to know how much to pitch, i would say 6 grams is good for a 4-6% abv or so.When you mentioned you shook them and it seemed like it worked well, well thats because you probably used too much sugar to prime with and its probably still chomping away and you will slowly have massive carbonation.

3.I like having a glass fermenter myself but you can use the kit bucket as a bottleing bucket as well,unless it came with two, then ya your stuck with a plastic fermenter which isnt bad.Youll probably end up getting more anyway eventually. Glass or plastic carboys are probably better for noobs so they dont flipp out if the airlock is not bubbleing, but then again you may freak out from what you see in the carboy as 9 of 10 times the paranoia if it looks right or not is usually normal.

I would rethink what you want before you decide to buy it,nothing wrong with researching some, i spent a few months before i started brewing/buying.
 
You did nothing wrong. I use table sugar all the time.

I suspect you bottled too early, and that is why it is sweet. Start drinking the bottles with 2.5 tsps of sugar first, and if you start getting gushers, put the rest of the bottles in the fridge and drink quickly.

Use the Muntons yeast. It is probably the better one. 6grams is enough for 2 gallons. Save the Mr.Beer yeast in the fridge. You can keep it for an emergency, or use it in the boil as yeast nutrient.

Glass fermenters are nice,but also dangerous. You drop it, you lose all your beer, but you can get seriously injured too. They are also heavy, if you ever want to move one. They sell Better Bottles, and you can see thru them. I have a glass carboy, and like it, but it stays in the basement, is filled down there and the only movement it has is to lift it 4 feet to enable me to rack the beer into the bottling bucket. I have 3 large HDPE fermenters that do the heavy work.
 
On to your questions...

1. If you can, I would batch prime rather than bottle prime. You get much more consistent results.

2. I would just use the Muntons, but would rehydrate prior to pitching.

3. Most of us (I believe) ferment in plastic buckets. Being able to watch means that you're letting in light as well...besides the buckets are cheaper and easier to carry! :D
Well, I'm glad my errors weren't too costly. My tap water has always tasted fine to me, and I'm glad you don't think the light or table sugar was too bad of an idea. I guess in future batches I'll just give it the full three weeks to carb/condition. I was just so impatient with this being my first one. Do you think they'll carb even more over the next couple of weeks? I don't want bombs, especially with my next two batches to be bottled in glass!

Regarding my questions:

#1. I intend to as soon as I get a bottling bucket.
#2. Thanks! I'm a little scared of rehydrating but it doesn't look THAT hard. I'll try it if you think it's worth it.
#3. Excellent points. I think I may just get that kit.
 
Welcome to the forum and brewing
1-Dont shake the bottle and 1.5 2 and 2.5 is a lot of sugar to prime with I would get those in the fridge as soon as they are carbed like now. Where did you get those numbers?Are they different size bottles? Gennerally you want 3/4-1 tsp per 12 oz bottle.Ideally you want to go by weight for priming sugar.

2. JUst use the muntons Is it the gold one? if not that one is better for non all malt beers.Get some nottingham,o5 or 04 in the future.Dabepending on your expected abv or origional gravity reading taken with a hydrometer or recipe you will want to know how much to pitch, i would say 6 grams is good for a 4-6% abv or so.

3.I like having a glass fermenter myself but you can use the kit bucket as a bottleing bucket as well,unless it came with two, then ya your stuck with a plastic fermenter which isnt bad.Youll probably end up getting more anyway eventually.

I would rethink what you want before you decide to buy it,nothing wrong with researching some, i spent a few months before i started brewing/buying.

#1. That's with the liter sized PET bottles that come with the Mr. Beer kit.

#2. Don't have a hydrometer yet. Still using this lil' Mr. Beer kit. But the website says 4.6% so I'll just use the Munton's (it says Munton's Active Brewing Yeast - thats all)

#3. Excellent points again! Thanks. Ima just have to get that one as soon as I get the funds together.
 
You did nothing wrong. I use table sugar all the time.

I suspect you bottled too early, and that is why it is sweet. Start drinking the bottles with 2.5 tsps of sugar first, and if you start getting gushers, put the rest of the bottles in the fridge and drink quickly.

Use the Muntons yeast. It is probably the better one. 6grams is enough for 2 gallons. Save the Mr.Beer yeast in the fridge. You can keep it for an emergency, or use it in the boil as yeast nutrient.

Glass fermenters are nice,but also dangerous. You drop it, you lose all your beer, but you can get seriously injured too. They are also heavy, if you ever want to move one. They sell Better Bottles, and you can see thru them. I have a glass carboy, and like it, but it stays in the basement, is filled down there and the only movement it has is to lift it 4 feet to enable me to rack the beer into the bottling bucket. I have 3 large HDPE fermenters that do the heavy work.

K. I'll drink the 2.5tsp ones first, use the Munton's only, and research how to use the Mr. B. yeast as a nutrient. I have no idea what you mean as of now, but I CAN read. I keep reading the same thing about the glass fermenters .. just not worth it. I think I'll get the plastic ones. I am going to try and look for a clear one though .. just can't help but want to see the process.
 
HappyDrunk said:
LOL yeah, that's what they call it on the Mr. Beer website.

For some reason that stood out to me. I first had visions of feminine hygene products. I bet it's going to be tasty though!

Back on topic....

Sounds like you'll be just fine. Its harder to screw up beer than it might seem. There is surely some great info to be had on here. But listen closely.... Just don't ask if a secondary is necessary and you'll be OK!

Cheers friend!
 
I would like to know how those kits turn out i never used them, but i do know that they seem to be twice as much as you would spend on a good kit or your own ingredients and a recipe.
I would let those bottles condion till they taste good,maybe the cidery will fade,that is usually from being a young or green beer,give some of them some time to see how they turn out.
I almost preferr table sugar to prime with myself.DME and cornsugar work about all the same.
 
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