Terry08
Well-Known Member
Well several brews have now come and gone. I always use canned kits and I use a simple and fast method. I have made a couple of changes and the results are terrific. I do not know if many of you have tried VB (Victoria Bitter) I don't know why they call it that as it is not that bitter, quite a refreshing Australian Ale/Lager about 4.7%ABV.
Well using my proven method and the improvement I gained from this forum I can just about match it.
I brewed a Coles "Farmland" draught
Method
Bring 2 litres of water to boil heating mix at the same time (Washed can first)
Empty 1 Kg Dextrose in Fermenter and then the wort mix.
Pour on the boiling water and then a further 22 litres of tap water. (Sydney water is 2nd to none)
Add supplied yeast and place fish heater in brew and close the lid.
Normaly I would have checked the hydrometer several times and bottle when fermented.
New Trick
I let it stand for 12 days and transfer to the Secondary for 2 weeks.
I then bottle using a measure and sugar as I always have done.
New Trick
I have adopted use of a stick and peel label on the cap which cuts down the bottle cleaning time.
The finished product, I guess you will never know but even though my beer was always judged good even I can now tell the difference.
I still get a light dusting of yeast that I guess are starved of sugar. But I can decant into a jug. It is only the last pour that will lose its crystal finish.
I had another idea (Wish I did'nt) I thought of pouring a small quantity of wax in the cap lid and after bottling store upside down. Then after they have conditioned say in 3-4 weeks place each bottle down on its cap on a hot plate to melt the wax. Theory: When the wax melts it combines with the dusting of yeast and then solidifies. Result Clean beer.
I will have to try it at least once. I just remembered that other idea I had of using a wine bladder as a keg. Worked perfectly result to much trouble sanitising and filling etc. Co2 was great, Taste good, Bladder stood the preassure (Had me a bit concerned, the wife would kill me if it split).
Actually I have bought a 5 litre water container with a tap made of solid walled plastic. I will experiment with that. Plan to use a ordinary bike pump to replace lost pressure when dispensed. Reason: at a party 5 litres will not last long and the beer would have normal Co2 priming over the conditioning period. This idea I think does have merit. I will fit a bike valve to the cap.
So in conclusion You can use a wine bladder as a keg and prime as it is filled, but it is too much trouble. I will stick with my 720ml bottle kegs for my main production.
Hmm! can't hear the applause. Who said I have too much time on my hands
Terry
Well using my proven method and the improvement I gained from this forum I can just about match it.
I brewed a Coles "Farmland" draught
Method
Bring 2 litres of water to boil heating mix at the same time (Washed can first)
Empty 1 Kg Dextrose in Fermenter and then the wort mix.
Pour on the boiling water and then a further 22 litres of tap water. (Sydney water is 2nd to none)
Add supplied yeast and place fish heater in brew and close the lid.
Normaly I would have checked the hydrometer several times and bottle when fermented.
New Trick
I let it stand for 12 days and transfer to the Secondary for 2 weeks.
I then bottle using a measure and sugar as I always have done.
New Trick
I have adopted use of a stick and peel label on the cap which cuts down the bottle cleaning time.
The finished product, I guess you will never know but even though my beer was always judged good even I can now tell the difference.
I still get a light dusting of yeast that I guess are starved of sugar. But I can decant into a jug. It is only the last pour that will lose its crystal finish.
I had another idea (Wish I did'nt) I thought of pouring a small quantity of wax in the cap lid and after bottling store upside down. Then after they have conditioned say in 3-4 weeks place each bottle down on its cap on a hot plate to melt the wax. Theory: When the wax melts it combines with the dusting of yeast and then solidifies. Result Clean beer.
I will have to try it at least once. I just remembered that other idea I had of using a wine bladder as a keg. Worked perfectly result to much trouble sanitising and filling etc. Co2 was great, Taste good, Bladder stood the preassure (Had me a bit concerned, the wife would kill me if it split).
Actually I have bought a 5 litre water container with a tap made of solid walled plastic. I will experiment with that. Plan to use a ordinary bike pump to replace lost pressure when dispensed. Reason: at a party 5 litres will not last long and the beer would have normal Co2 priming over the conditioning period. This idea I think does have merit. I will fit a bike valve to the cap.
So in conclusion You can use a wine bladder as a keg and prime as it is filled, but it is too much trouble. I will stick with my 720ml bottle kegs for my main production.
Hmm! can't hear the applause. Who said I have too much time on my hands
Terry