Stout Brew Kettles

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TripleTap said:
I received my 20 gallon system from Stout this spring. The bottom outlet on the BK leaked. They gave the standard response and told me to find a welder. It was a real PITA. They agreed to swap it if I paid the shipping. That was not agreeable to me. I found a local welder. He could not get his tip in to get to the leak.

After that, they agreed to the exchange. It was frustrating because I spent months designing the system, weeks installing and plumbing it after it finally arrived...just to find out it leaked with my first run of water. then I get the run around....but now that it is resolved...Overall, I am pleased with the system. Still trying to calibrate the herms with the Blichmann tower of power.

It is there business and not mine...but I would rather they add $5.00 to every piece and just pay for the shipping to swap out faulty units. mistakes will happen and QC on goods from China can be tough. But the customer should not be the one doing the legwork.

Incidently, I have a 7 gallon fermentor that has been flawless for the last few years. I will be adding a larger one for my larger system soon. Probly from Stout.

Also my first Stout Boil kettle (9 gal) leaks as well. Very slightly. I never reported it because I never noticed it til I left a batch of One Step in it overnight. I still use it...the flames burn off the slight drip. Though I do not use it for beer anymore. It makes an awesome tank for crawfish/seafood boils. Open the valve drain the liquid in to a bucket....pour out on to a table and have a party!
Click to expand...

I want to clarify that once they agreed to the exchange....they did pay for the return shipping.
 
I've had my stout tanks for a little under a year now. 20g HLT, MLT, and BK. All with all the bells and whistles.

I've started finding small bits of rust in the ferules and faces of the tri-clamp inlets and outlets. Mostly, in the ferules where the sight glass attaches. I passivate according to their directions every 6 months.

I'll make sure to remove all of the clamped accessories after cleaning and drying them all thoroughly from now on.

I'm not sure if this is due to the SS material being lower quality, or the manufacturing process changing the material properties. I'm able to remove the rust with BKF, but it is still sort of troubling. Does this sort of thing happen with all SS kettles?
 
I just got my new BK in a couple days ago. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it looks great. I'd also be curious to hear about others' experiences with proper maintenance.
 
Hi Bad Wolf,

A common misconception is that stainless steel is stain proof. It is not. Stainless steel does stain less (a lot less) than regular steel, but it can/will rust over time and/or with the right conditions.

Here are some things that can promote stain or corrosion in stainless steel:
- Excessive humidity
- Salt/salt water
- Chlorine
- Not being allowed to fully dry out
- Using abrasive cleaners or scouring pads
- Using any ferrous metal object (non stainless) on the kettle, which will embed iron in the stainless, and the iron will then rust.

Please see some industry links below.

Most commercial breweries passivate their stainless equipment every 3 or 4 months.

With home brew equipment, you might want to use Bar Keeper's Friend to clean the kettles after each use, especially if you are in a high humidity area.

To quote the Megan Racing link,

"The weather and environment with higher than normal humidity and precipitation figures allow the steel to be more prone to rust and corrosion, but 304 stainless steel is NOT rust-proof."

http://www.ancare.com/our-products/stainless-steel

http://www.marfas.com/technical/stainless-steel-corrosion-its-stain-less-not-always-stain-proof.html

http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs.asp?id=89

Cheers,

John
 
My ferrules have rust inside as well but no where else. We brew inside in an air conditioned basement converted to a brewery so don't think humidity is the issue. We're just coming up on 6 months old.


Almost Famous Brewing Company
 
orangehero said:
Has anyone had bad welds on their stout equipment? What was wrong and how did you have it repaired?

I was excited about my shiny kettle, but all of the fitting welds leak.
Click to expand...

I had one small leak on the top of my brite tank (on the 1/4" mpt fitting). I contacted Stout as soon as it was discovered. On their recommendation I found a local stainless welder and they fixed it. Stout covered the cost of the repair. The repair looks just fine and, more importantly, allows the brite tank to maintain pressure for carbing. This was one tiny spot on an order of HLT, MT, BK, 2@conical and 2@brite. I've ordered two more conicals and they arrive tomorrow.

I have noticed a couple of small weld spots where rust keeps cropping up but we keep on top of it with barkeepers friend and it's not an issue.
 
The location makes sense, with the ferules to the sight glasses. Moisture collects, can't dry easily.

I'll take them off to allow it to dry. That is the beauty of tri clamps.
 
So a year later I finally got my replacement kettle...hopefully no leaks this time.

Apparently they made a design change to address the leaking front outlet on the boil kettles by having a patch on the skirt.

New front outlet:

NewKettle01.jpg
 
So, Any more comments or observations on the Stout equipment. Just found this thread doing a search for Stout HERMS. Are they still having problems with leaks and using small diameter, short HERMS coils?
I was hoping I found a great option to outfit my new HERMS brewery, but I am now sceptical...Not interested in dented, warped or leaking tanks.
 
I guess nothing is 100%. My kettles didn't leak and I was happy to have them. Why not call them about HERMS size? When I received my HLT a year or two ago it was the shorter coil so I got an aftermarket one to replace it.
 
I have 4 Stout Kettles and two conicals and they have been work horses for me. I have two blickmans as well (retired) becuase they leak. I think that the leaking Stout was a bad one. I do know know if they have upsized the HERMS coil but I did find the flow too slow for my liking. I use a Chinzilla where I pump the Wort on the inside tube and Hot Water from an Electric 9 gal Stout BK. It works A++++ as I can control the mash temp very well and the flow is excellent. It does take two pumps however. John has always fixed any issues that I had to my satisfaction. One thing I wish I had done is to get an Electric Port on my 30 gal. HLT. I use Propane now and it would be nice to have the Electric option.
 
I decided to try them so I ordered a couple pieces. Wish me luck!

From what I was told, the 30g. HLT W/HERMS coil has 37' of 16mm od tubing.
The 20g HLT W/HERMS has 32' of 11mm od tubing.
 
brick_haus said:
I decided to try them so I ordered a couple pieces. Wish me luck!

From what I was told, the 30g. HLT W/HERMS coil has 37' of 16mm od tubing.
The 20g HLT W/HERMS has 32' of 11mm od tubing.
Click to expand...

Does anyone know how that 20g herms is different than the older coils? I am wondering how I might order.
 
Ugh so much envy for you guys who can afford to buy Stout tanks. They seem to be the absolute only ones who do welded tangential inlets.
 
My old coil, since replaced with a custom coil, was about 30' of 8mm inside diameter.

I do like the tangential input. With a center inlet pump full throttle, it makes a very effective whirlpool. The dead space is probably more than necessary, but a little tilting when draining fixes it.
 
aangel said:
Ugh so much envy for you guys who can afford to buy Stout tanks. They seem to be the absolute only ones who do welded tangential inlets.
Click to expand...

There are many companies reselling stainless kettles with tangential inlets.

https://www.brewershardware.com/15-...ial-Inlet-and-Temperature-Port-POT15BKTI.html

They probably all come from the same factories. With stout my experience getting issues fixed left much to be desired, though. I highly recommend doing business with Derrin form Brewer's Hardware, though.
 

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