GE 7 CF (FCM7SUWW) keezer conversion

This is available for $168 after $10 coupon from Home Depot. Free shipping!

Just ordered mine for Saturday delivery! And with that, I leave the realm of bottles and move into kegging!

nickmv said:

This is available for $168 after $10 coupon from Home Depot. Free shipping!

Just ordered mine for Saturday delivery! And with that, I leave the realm of bottles and move into kegging!

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Hi

There really aren't any cheaper options (new) out there that will hold several corny's than the 7 cubic foot freezers.

Bob

me too. gona grab one of these. no shelf so more room at base, at least that's what hd salesman said.

Sheldon said:

me too. gona grab one of these. no shelf so more room at base, at least that's what hd salesman said.

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Hi

I believe you will find that it does have a "hump" at the bottom.

Bob

now that i have looked through this thread, I agree it appears to have the hump, even though the dude said it did not. There was no floor model for me to check.

so will 4 pin lock kegs fit?

Ordered... Will need to decide if this becomes a Keezer or a ferm chamber... hmm..

cyclogenesis said:

Ordered... Will need to decide if this becomes a Keezer or a ferm chamber... hmm..

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I plan to use it for both, until I can justify the need for another one.

How did you guys wire up the STC-1000? Wondering where the keezer plugs in if the controller is in the collar.

I just saw this is on sale at Home Depot for $168 w/ promotion code HDJUNE10 with free shipping. Might be a good time to pick one up, the free delivery is nice for those without a big enough car to pick it up.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...225267&SID=DTB7zLxxEeGEzKYqsUvgHA7c4f&cj=true

BeachBeerBoobs said:

How did you guys wire up the STC-1000? Wondering where the keezer plugs in if the controller is in the collar.

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I put my controller in the collar then wired the electrical through the rear of the collar and used a plastic electrical box with two plugs for switching. Then I just plugged my keezer into that electrical plug so I don't have to risk messing up the wiring of the keezer itself.

gx1400 said:

I put my controller in the collar then wired the electrical through the rear of the collar and used a plastic electrical box with two plugs for switching. Then I just plugged my keezer into that electrical plug so I don't have to risk messing up the wiring of the keezer itself.

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How did you cut the square hole in the collar for the temp controller?

I just bought this since its an excellent deal, and I had a question.

I would like to put a tap tower on top of the freezer instead of making a collar. Would I be able to fit 4 ball lock kegs on the floor, and have a 5lb co2 tank on the ledge without adding a collar? I wasn't sure if there was enough room on that shelf for a co2 tank without the added room from the collar.

lion1750 said:

I just bought this since its an excellent deal, and I had a question.

I would like to put a tap tower on top of the freezer instead of making a collar. Would I be able to fit 4 ball lock kegs on the floor, and have a 5lb co2 tank on the ledge without adding a collar? I wasn't sure if there was enough room on that shelf for a co2 tank without the added room from the collar.

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I did pretty much what you're describing. It's a tight fit, but it is possible. Check out page 2 on the link i just posted to see 4 kegs and a 5lb CO2 tank fitting in a 7.0CF freezer.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/another-keezer-build-209288/

lion1750 said:

I just bought this since its an excellent deal, and I had a question.

I would like to put a tap tower on top of the freezer instead of making a collar. Would I be able to fit 4 ball lock kegs on the floor, and have a 5lb co2 tank on the ledge without adding a collar? I wasn't sure if there was enough room on that shelf for a co2 tank without the added room from the collar.

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Don't think so. I've got 3 kegs on the floor and the tank on the ledge, but have to have the tank leaning to make it fit without a collar. You definitely won't be able to have the tank standing up. And I don't believe you can get 4 on the floor.

EDIT: I stand corrected. Definitely a tight squeeze though.

BeachBeerBoobs said:

How did you cut the square hole in the collar for the temp controller?

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Jigsaw

gx1400 said:

I put my controller in the collar then wired the electrical through the rear of the collar and used a plastic electrical box with two plugs for switching. Then I just plugged my keezer into that electrical plug so I don't have to risk messing up the wiring of the keezer itself.

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I did the same:

Sheldon said:

so will 4 pin lock kegs fit?

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I don't think so (at least not on the floor). 4 ball locks are a TIGHT squeeze. Since pin locks are shorter and fatter, I think it won't work. You could (I think) get the fourth one in if you build a collar and put it on the hump area?

copyright1997 said:

I don't think so (at least not on the floor). 4 ball locks are a TIGHT squeeze. Since pin locks are shorter and fatter, I think it won't work. You could (I think) get the fourth one in if you build a collar and put it on the hump area?

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You can do that, if you use an tall enough collar. I have 4 pin locks and did it with a 2x6 collar which ended up being about 1/4" too short, and added a 1x2 to the top of the 2x6's. Works great. I leave my tank outside to keezer with a hole for the gas line drilled / sealed through the collar. I put quick disconnects on the gas line so I can more / replace the tank quickly and easily.

Does anyone know if three sixtels will fit on the floor?

lion1750 said:

I just bought this since its an excellent deal, and I had a question.

I would like to put a tap tower on top of the freezer instead of making a collar. Would I be able to fit 4 ball lock kegs on the floor, and have a 5lb co2 tank on the ledge without adding a collar? I wasn't sure if there was enough room on that shelf for a co2 tank without the added room from the collar.

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Yes you can. Look at my DIY for pics

NorthNJipa said:

Did you reattach the weatherstrip to the bottom of the collar where it meets the freezer body? If you add the collar to the body inside of the lid, do you not mess around with the weatherstrip?

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Lots of good info earlier in the thread, just look around

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ge-7-cf-fcm7suww-keezer-conversion-192208/index3.html#post2281611

That lists the dimensions of his collar. TomSD mounted the collar to the lid, and the first few pages detail how he removed the weatherstripping from the lid. If you want to mount the collar to the freezer, you can leave the weatherstripping as is.

He added it to the bottom of the collar. He said this was his plan in the first post or two, then there's a picture a little later on:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ge-7-cf-fcm7suww-keezer-conversion-192208/index4.html#post2286154

NorthNJipa said:

are these measurements for if you use 1x8s or is it for 1x10s?

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The only difference between a 1x8 or 1x10 is in the width of the wood (therefore height of the collar). The length that you cut the wood to is independent of this. I think this is assuming a wood thickness of 3/4".

Thanks to all of the above posts as they pretty much covered it.

Reused the weather stripping and it is holding up great. Also, Zach is right that the measurements will be the same either way and yes with shrinkage it is actually 3/4" thick though it is advertised as "1".

TomSD said:

Thanks to all of the above posts as they pretty much covered it.

Reused the weather stripping and it is holding up great. Also, Zach is right that the measurements will be the same either way and yes with shrinkage it is actually 3/4" thick though it is advertised as "1".

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Tom, just wanna say thank you so much for the detailed thread, it helped so much when I was planning my build. It was great to cross-check my collar measurements with yours.

Yes the insulation is a must I think... specially with a taller collar. Also, 2 by whatever won't work as it is a pretty narrow space for the collar. You're pretty much stuck with 1 by whatever.

The higher efficiency stuff would be cleaner to work with but the styrofoam was cheap and has held up great. I have to pull it apart on occasion and the thicker stuff is pretty durable though it does tend to flake/crumble like most styrofoam.

Short answer... if I rebuilt the collar I would do it exactly the same except I would add a reinforcement plate at the hinges as that seems to be the weak point. I haven't had a problem yet but I'm careful with it.

NorthNJipa said:

Last question, how important is it to reuse the weatherstrip? Or is it just as good to use new weatherstrip tape from home depot?
"MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Gray High-Density PVC Foam Weatherstrip Tape "

The MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Gray High-Density PVC Foam Weatherstrip Tape is a self-adhesive weatherproofing foam tape designed to eliminate air dust and moisture leaks around doors and windows. The foam tape is easy to apply complete with a self adhesive backing. Protect your home from the elements in all seasons.

Seals top and sides of door and windows
Easy, self-adhesive application
High-density closed-cell PVC foam
Helps reduce moisture leaks
Keeps dust out
MFG Brand Name : MD Building Products

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They'll accomplish the same thing so whichever looks like it will give you the best seal. I'd try to re use the seal it came with as what its what it was intended for but as long as the end result is a tight seal you should be good. If you removed the original seal correctly it should be easy to re apply.

NorthNJipa said:

Last question, how important is it to reuse the weatherstrip? Or is it just as good to use new weatherstrip tape from home depot?
"MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Gray High-Density PVC Foam Weatherstrip Tape "

The MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Gray High-Density PVC Foam Weatherstrip Tape is a self-adhesive weatherproofing foam tape designed to eliminate air dust and moisture leaks around doors and windows. The foam tape is easy to apply complete with a self adhesive backing. Protect your home from the elements in all seasons.

Seals top and sides of door and windows
Easy, self-adhesive application
High-density closed-cell PVC foam
Helps reduce moisture leaks
Keeps dust out
MFG Brand Name : MD Building Products

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Hi

The gasket that comes with the freezer is a pretty well made gizmo. It does a better job of sealing than the generic stuff. That said, there are some limits:

1) Any gasket will only work between flat surfaces. Trying to build it up to fill a gap is not a good idea. Fill the gap so the surface is flat and it's parallel to the other surface.

2) Gaskets only support just so much weight. 600 lbs of granite built into the top of a keezer isn't going to work with the standard gasket.

Bob

NorthNJipa said:

maybe ill just by some of that greatstuff canned foam spray and spray over the inside weatherstrip to help insulate

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Careful, when that stuff dries it triples in size from what u spray on. It also dries rigid so it wouldn't make the type of seal your looking for.

I'd rotate the whole thing 90 degrees? Hard to tell from the layout of the room but it looks like it might fit better that way anyway.

Pin up a drapery or small blanket matching your light house throw pillow. Hate to put anything on that nice wood work though.

Thanks everyone for this very informative thread. I just finished reading the whole thing in prep for making my first keezer, and all of my questions have been covered. Cheers!

I saw some people mention that "yea you can add towers to the top of this model", but it seemed more like speculation, at least thats how I took it. has anyone installed towers on their lid for this model? I would love to have a single on one end and a double on the other end.

Thanks!

Also, is anyone familiar with this model number for a GE 7.0cf (model fcm7dnawh)? Im thinking it might be this unit, just an earlier model?

I am to the point of drilling holes in collar for hinges. The collar will be attached to the lid. Do I just put the seal on the collar set it on and mark the holes or do I need to allow for something? I have read in one thread about using shims under hinges.

Awesome guide here!

I got my collar (1x10 red oak, stained with MinWax mission oak satin stain+poly) assembled (circ saw w/miter fence), and I just applied the silicone sealant to adhere the freezer top to the collar. Argggh, 24 hr wait.

Up next: insulating collar, gluing gasket back on, holes to drill for remaining hardware (probes, handles, etc)..........oh, and drinking beer.

I started my build on this over the past weekend. A coat of primer & 2 coats of chalkboard paint on the body.

I built the collar out of 1x10 select pine boards. Secured them to each other with pocket holes and metal corner brackets.
I used the lid turned upside down as a template for lining up the collar pieces.
I will be adding trim to the collar like one other member on this thread did. More pictures to come on that later.
Because I'm adding trim, I didn't mess with doing any mitre cuts on the corners.

The base has 2- 3" locking wheels and 2 normal rotating wheels. I will be adding pine boards to the stand as well, so I won't be able to get to the wheel locks, I thought about that after the fact. I'm still debating mounting the front board in some manner that I could pop it off to get to the wheel locks, but we shall see.