I just purchased a discontinued (nonreturnable) keg off craigslist for $12 to turn into a brew kettle. Now, I've read the articles and watched all the videos on removing the spear, but for the life of me I can not get the spring to pop out. I've been able to fit a tiny screwdriver in the notch and I got it to budge a little, but before I can get it to pop out either the screwdriver will slip or it'll begin to strip the edge of the spring. Any suggestions?
Sanke keg spring clip removal
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BendBrewer
Well-Known Member
If you build a jig that goes around the outside of the stem, you don't have to take the stem out. Just release the pressure and drill a hole in the top and fill halfway with water. Cut away.
It's a Miller keg isn't it?
It's a Miller keg isn't it?
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TacoBrew
Well-Known Member
It's a Bud Light keg. Regardless, I'd still like to be able to get the stupid clip out, but I seem to be having better luck breaking my screwdriver than getting the thing to budge another millimeter.
We couldn't get one of ours out easily either, we ended up drilling a "sight" hole aligned with where the alignment mark is. From there we were able to easily remove the clip, but at the sacrifice of a single hole in the lid.
mb2696
Well-Known Member
did you vent the pressure first
BendBrewer
Well-Known Member
Been there. Said screw it and cut the thing off without dealing with the stem. Makes me wonder why anyone would unless they plan on using the top for a lid.
A Campbell's Soup can cut open with a Side Cutting opener fits right over the stem perfectly. Best jig I have seen has just a loop of string that went around the stem and grinder. Simplicity at it's finest.
Good luck getting that stem out........
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
It's not that difficult... Take it outside, get a rag/towel to cover the top hole (where the spear is) and use a large (flathead) screwdriver to depress the ball in the middle... Use the towel to catch any liquid/spray that comes out of the keg. Once all the pressure has been released, the ring will come out easily.
Did it this way on four 1/6 kegs just the other week... Without releasing the pressure, the ring is pretty much impossible to get out.
Did it this way on four 1/6 kegs just the other week... Without releasing the pressure, the ring is pretty much impossible to get out.
BendBrewer
Well-Known Member
I think some kegs are just more difficult than others. I hit that freaking ring as hard as I could with a hole drilled into the top of the keg. I don't think I moved that thing 2 cm.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
2cm is almost an inch you know... Or did you mean 2mm?
I did find that if you release the pressure from within the keg first, it makes a huge difference... I broke a small screwdriver, as well as the one in my old Leatherman trying to get one ring off (before releasing the pressure)... Once the pressure is released, you just need to get behind one of the segments, and get it to get out from under the lip. If you go with the part that's closer to the end of the ring, then you get get that out and slip the screwdriver under it and get the ring out really easily... I wish I had taken some pictures of it now, so that I could show you what I'm talking about.
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TacoBrew
Well-Known Member
The first thing I did was remove the pressure--it isn't budging. Might try to drill the hole next. I understand that it isn't necessary to remove the stupid thing and no I don't plan on using the top as a lid, but now it is a matter of pride that I can defeat a stupid millimeter thick piece of coiled metal.
BendBrewer
Well-Known Member
You're a better man than me! To make it worse, I cut the top off and realized I didn't like the keg and am sticking with my pots. Anyone local wanting some Sanke kegs, hit me up.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Are you trying to get the entire ring out at one time? It's several layers thick you know... Try going with the part closer to where you see the end of the ring, and pry closer to the top... I think I also tried prying the entire thing off the first time, which was another source of trouble...
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TacoBrew
Well-Known Member
No, the issue was that i just couldn't get good enough leverage to pry it out. The screwdriver would just slip. However, good news! I was able to drill a small piece out near the notch and then easily removed the clip. Success!
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I didn't have any issue using one of my precision screwdrivers (flathead)... I could see not having one that small being an issue...
I didn't want to drill/cut/alter the keg in case I ever wanted to reinstall the spear and serve from any of them.
I didn't want to drill/cut/alter the keg in case I ever wanted to reinstall the spear and serve from any of them.
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TacoBrew
Well-Known Member
Golddiggie said:
Well this is one old dirty piece of crap that will make a better brew kettle than my turkey fryer pot. Now I just have to hammer out the bottom lip so it'll sit up straight. It's a bit wobbly right now.
McDingleberry
Well-Known Member
So, you didn't cut the top off of it? Did you just take the valve out to clean it, or do you brew in it like that?
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
No cutting, drilling, etc. to get the spears out of my 4 Sanke kegs. :rockin: Simply released all the pressure, used one of my hardened precision screwdrivers to get the end of the ring out, then slipped it under and ran it around to get the rest of the ring out... Took more time to release the pressure than to get the ring out after the first one.
I used PBW to clean the insides of the kegs out really nice (rinsed them really well too)... Since pulling them apart, I've racked my wee heavy into one for oak aging (planned for 3-4 weeks)... I'm thinking about fermenting my next batch in another of them... With the large universal bungs, installing an airlock will be very easy... I do have one of the orange caps too, just not sure when I'll use that... I do need to get a few more of the bungs for them...
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Fermenting in sankes is awesome. Look into making a spunding valve and doing pressurized fermentations. Loads of advantages, and can be done easily with a sanke coupler and a few parts from the hardware store.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Not interested in doing pressurized fermentations [at this time] since I have zero funds for the extra hardware (as you already posted in the other thread, and I replied to)... A $1.25 bung and airlock I already have does a wonderful job... I might look into it in the future, but chances are slim that I'll end up doing it...
McDingleberry
Well-Known Member
Ahhh. I didn't even think of using them as fermentors. I just pulled the valve out of one of mine to see what you guys were talking about, and it came right out. I did notice that since I brought the keg from shed, out into the sun I had to keep letting the air out as it warmed up.
I managed to remove the spear without any funny tools or methods. All I did was the following:
1. Release all the pressure from the keg by pushing down on the circular black rubber ring . Just be careful not to spray yourself full of the remains inside the keg.
2. You will notice that if you push down on the rubber ring, it reveals the spear (the metal part that looks like it is surrounded by the rubber piece). Down the side of this metal spear head you should notice that there are about 6 holes which are usually covered by the rubber. By pressing down on the rubber enough, you can expose these holes.
3. I'd suggest that you push down on the rubber ring using two flat screw drivers, and then try to push the tips of these deep enough into the holes. Make sure that you are using a proper size for the screw driver so that it fits nicely, but try not to damage the rubber ring in the process.
4. Next, you want to try to turn the center part by using the screw drivers, clockwise. I found that it only needs to turn something like 10 degrees or so. You'll need a bit of force, but I managed it simply by using my hands.
5. Once the spear head has moved a little bit in a clockwise motion, then you can proceed to turn the whole top valve (the full triangular top piece) anti-clockwise. The spear just falls slightly into the keg. This part separates from the rest of the valve piece. Take the other part of the valve piece off and then you can remove the spear part very easily.
No problem further. I removed two of these valves like this, and it was actually very easy.
1. Release all the pressure from the keg by pushing down on the circular black rubber ring . Just be careful not to spray yourself full of the remains inside the keg.
2. You will notice that if you push down on the rubber ring, it reveals the spear (the metal part that looks like it is surrounded by the rubber piece). Down the side of this metal spear head you should notice that there are about 6 holes which are usually covered by the rubber. By pressing down on the rubber enough, you can expose these holes.
3. I'd suggest that you push down on the rubber ring using two flat screw drivers, and then try to push the tips of these deep enough into the holes. Make sure that you are using a proper size for the screw driver so that it fits nicely, but try not to damage the rubber ring in the process.
4. Next, you want to try to turn the center part by using the screw drivers, clockwise. I found that it only needs to turn something like 10 degrees or so. You'll need a bit of force, but I managed it simply by using my hands.
5. Once the spear head has moved a little bit in a clockwise motion, then you can proceed to turn the whole top valve (the full triangular top piece) anti-clockwise. The spear just falls slightly into the keg. This part separates from the rest of the valve piece. Take the other part of the valve piece off and then you can remove the spear part very easily.
No problem further. I removed two of these valves like this, and it was actually very easy.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Most of the sankey kegs here in the US are type D, and from the triangular description it sounds like you have type G which are quite a bit different. Nice to know how to take apart a type G if I ever come across one though.
SamuraiSquirrel
Well-Known Member
I stopped even removing the "spring" and center post when i cut keggles. I just release the pressure and jam a small nail or whatever I have sitting around the garage in there (similar to how you press it down to relieve the initial pressure). I leave the nail or whatever in there to hold it "open" slightly just so no more pressure can buld up.
Then I cut the keg as usual. Getting that spring clip out was a PITA on some kegs. A couple that i did it came out really easy. Then I got a difficult one and said screw it and jammed a nail in there to hold it open.
Then I cut the keg as usual. Getting that spring clip out was a PITA on some kegs. A couple that i did it came out really easy. Then I got a difficult one and said screw it and jammed a nail in there to hold it open.
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