I need a wiring diagram for a single PID controlling a single 240v heating element. I've been surfing the Internet and have found some that are almost what I need, but not quite. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Tell me what you want and I'll draw it for you.I need a wiring diagram for a single PID controlling a single 240v heating element. I've been surfing the Internet and have found some that are almost what I need, but not quite. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Tell me what you want and I'll draw it for you.
I've posted a few diagrams here. Perhaps one of 'em might be close?
P-J
I suggest that you use this diagram:Auberin-wiring1-a4-5500w-30c.jpg
It is setup for a HLT and Boil kettle. You can use it as is - but - just don't set up the HLT outlet and its wiring from the DPDT switch. I suggest that you use the switch in any case as it will provide a positive disconnect for the heating element and if you add a HLT later on, you don't have to replace the switch.
BTW: The whole setup will fit in the Auberins Project Box
Please let me know if this is ok or if you want something added/changed.
Does this whole setup fit in the Project Box? If it does, it might actually be better than what I was looking for. I just want one PID and one element working initially, but I would like to move in to a dual element design with pumps as the next step.
The HLT is the place where you would want to control the temperature so it's where the probe would normally go. No need for one in the boil kettle.PJ would it possible to run a temp prob just for the HLT?
Temp probe wiring is really covered in the PID manual. With that said:...
Only thing missing on the schematics you posted, P-J is the wiring of the temp probe.
Do you have something like that worked up?
I took some liberties with your diagram P/J in irfanview. Keep in mind that I am know very little about electrical, but I feel I know enough to merely delete stuff!
Would this be an acceptable set-up for a PID controlled BIAB setup?
Either one will work. The difference? The SYL-2352 PID uses "fuzzy logic" for its temperature control which provides better accuracy. Take a look at the manuals for each one for a better understanding.What is the difference between the 2352 and the 2362 PIDs and which one is better? I am doing a 240V HLT and have 45A SSrs. Thanks
Is this what you are looking for?I'm looking to do a 5500k element, 240v, 30A, single pump, single PID, with dual temp probes (one for BK/HLT, one for MT)
My only alteration is I want a secondary display to continually show the temp in the MT. I'll be using my old IC as the HERM coil, submerged in the BK/HLT, which will be controlled by the PID. In my head it's a simple on/of, PID display, secondary display, button for the element, button for the pump, big ol' E-stop button. Simple, sleek, small. Any suggestions?
I've been looking at that diagram you linked to, P-J, for a while now. What I can figure for the element is simply eliminate the dual switch for the element in favor of a single switch, and cut out one of the pumps. That would take care of everything except the secondary display and the e-stop.
The HLT is the place where you would want to control the temperature so it's where the probe would normally go. No need for one in the boil kettle.
What is the difference between the 2352 and the 2362 PIDs and which one is better?
I took some liberties with your diagram P/J in irfanview. Keep in mind that I am know very little about electrical, but I feel I know enough to merely delete stuff!
Would this be an acceptable set-up for a PID controlled BIAB setup?
The only problem I have with that drawing. I would put the on/off switch for the heating element on the low voltage side of the SSR or control it with a contactor. I'm sure you don't want to be grabbing the 240v switch with the possibility of wet hands.
So it works because the system is A/C, and the other positive is required as a ground once every other cycle? Why can't the ground/neutral act as the ground when one of the hot leads is disconnected?
I took some liberties with your diagram P/J in irfanview. Keep in mind that I am know very little about electrical, but I feel I know enough to merely delete stuff!
Would this be an acceptable set-up for a PID controlled BIAB setup?
Thank you for the help guys, I've spent some time reading about AC current trying to learn as much as I can.
So in the above schematic with a neutral and one hot 220v lead going to the PID, is the PID then powered by 110V (even though it does not have a second hot lead)? Could the PID alternatively be powered by two hot leads to 9 and 10?
I believe so for the Auber 2352, which is quite useful if you only have 240V in the control panel. But if you also have 120V, I don't know of any good reason to use higher voltage to power the PID.
gigapunk said:Thank you for the help guys, I've spent some time reading about AC current trying to learn as much as I can.
So in the above schematic with a neutral and one hot 220v lead going to the PID, is the PID then powered by 110V (even though it does not have a second hot lead)? Could the PID alternatively be powered by two hot leads to 9 and 10?
Sorry: Would like to help with a drawing - however - your build plan is based on Sestos components. I'm not familiar with them and it poses a sharp learning curve for me that I'm not willing to invest in.I need a wiring too,please. I have 2 5500 watt heaters on 240.. I have two 1/2 hp pumps. These need to be controlled as two seperate pump and heater combos. I have 2 Sestos B2E timers and 2 Sestos D1S controllers.Timer 1 and controller 1 work together. Timer 1 will tell controller 1 when to shut down. It will also time a pump on simple on/off. I need an indicator light light between Timer 1 and pump. I need indicator light between Controller 1 and heater 1. Setup 2 is identical to Setup 1, mounted in same control panel. This is a biodiesel processor. Pump 1 and Heater 1 are on a 100 gal conical steel tank circulating from bottom to top. Pump 2 and Heater 2 are on a 55 gal drum circulating from bottom to top.
vegoiltycoon said:I need a wiring too,please. I have 2 5500 watt heaters on 240.. I have two 1/2 hp pumps. These need to be controlled as two seperate pump and heater combos. I have 2 Sestos B2E timers and 2 Sestos D1S controllers.Timer 1 and controller 1 work together. Timer 1 will tell controller 1 when to shut down. It will also time a pump on simple on/off. I need an indicator light light between Timer 1 and pump. I need indicator light between Controller 1 and heater 1. Setup 2 is identical to Setup 1, mounted in same control panel. This is a biodiesel processor. Pump 1 and Heater 1 are on a 100 gal conical steel tank circulating from bottom to top. Pump 2 and Heater 2 are on a 55 gal drum circulating from bottom to top.
Sorry: Would like to help with a drawing - however - your build plan is based on Sestos components. I'm not familiar with them and it poses a sharp learning curve for me that I'm not willing to invest in.
Auber Instruments components - no problem..
Again, sorry...
P-J, I bet you have a drawing already with Auber PIDs and timers that would get him most of the way there.
Very true - however the differences between the Auber and the Sestos is huge. Very difficult to even try to interpret a chang in a plan.
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