Trodd said:I've never used one of these, but I am a total fabrication geek, that works as an engineer, I totally want to build one of these one day (with my own tweaks of course). One question though....HOW DO YOU CLEAN AND SANITIZE IT??? You have all the valves, and pipe or hose, do you just circulate sanitizer and cleaning agents through it???
Trodd said:I've never used one of these, but I am a total fabrication geek, that works as an engineer, I totally want to build one of these one day (with my own tweaks of course). One question though....HOW DO YOU CLEAN AND SANITIZE IT??? You have all the valves, and pipe or hose, do you just circulate sanitizer and cleaning agents through it???
kladue said:What are you using as a pilot burner?
billtzk said:I made the gas manifold. I'm using mild steel, not SS.
$480 is a good price, assuming you are talking 40 feet of 2 x 2 inch by .120 wall square tubing. The best price I could find was $685.
How much heat can powder-coat paint take? The top will get very hot. I plan to use a high temperature paint unless I can find a better solution.
I am not an engineer so I couldn't tell you what type and size aluminum tubing would work from a structural perspective.
korndog said:Speaking of the manifold, is there any reason not to tap the holes and use nipples, instead of welding the fittings in place?
billtzk said:1/8th inch thick metal doesn't make for much thread to hold a threaded nipple. I think it would leak. But I really can't say for sure.
The fabricator should have no problem welding in couplings. SS or weldable mild steel 1/2 couplings. The SS ones are easy to find as all the beer stores sell them for people who want to make keggles, but weldable mild steel couplings you probably have to order from McMaster Carr. That's what I did.
BrewBeemer said:I'm just in the thinking stage of building a system, missed the boat on the BYO issue. What issue or month has the Brutus 10 in it?
korndog said:... and how to reduce the tubing to accommodate casters.
wshymas said:finally finished with my stand ...
billtzk said:Use square tubing inserts. I'm using the McMaster Carr part number 60945 K31 -- Load-Rated Tube Adapter, 1/2" - 13 thread, 2 inch square, nylon, for 12 and 11 gage wall.
Be sure to get 1/2 inch - 13 threaded stem castors. There are a bunch of options from McMaster Carr, but you might find suitable ones locally too.
Lil' Sparky said:1/2" pipe should be more than enough. That's what most people use when they put together their plumbing for their brew stand. I've actually got 3/8" plumbing on my current stand and haven't had any problems. My new stand is getting 1/2" though - just easier to find what you need. I'm almost done with it and should be able to break it in next weekend.
Yeah, but think of how much better your beer will be.Chimone said:Ill say this though.....this is getting expensive.
Chimone said:well my Brutus Ten frame is at the welders as we speak. I pick it up either Wed or Thursday. Ill be sure to post some pics of my progress as I piece it together.
Ill say this though.....this is getting expensive.
Bobby_M said:I love the brass ones. Very well built and I can't see spending 10x the money on stainless.
+1, I got to brew with the brass ones from McMaster for the first time this weekend and they worked great.Bobby_M said:I love the brass ones. Very well built and I can't see spending 10x the money on stainless.
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