Ozzie53
Member
Whats up fellow brewers, my buddy and I wanted to try a 90 min IPA Extract Recipe, does anyone know of any or have any recipes? I couldnt find any posted.
Thanks'
Brian
Thanks'
Brian
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA
This recipe has been floating around the internet and several magazines lately. It continues to be in high demand so I'm adding it to my collection. The addition of Amber/Brown Malt in this recipe contributes more to a suttle roast flavor but little of the sweetness you might expect in a beer of amber color. The hop additions to this recipe are not your normal boil/flavor/aroma additions. In the 90 minute boil you will be adding 1/4 ounce of hops every 8 minutes followed by another 2 ounces of hops added to the secondary fermenter or keg (dry hopping). If this recipe seems confusing, you are probably doing it right.
8 lbs Light Dry Malt Extract
1 3/4 lb German Pilsner Malt
1 3/4 lb Brown (amber) Malt 35 L
2 oz Amarillo Hops 16 HBUs
3/4 oz Simcoe Hops 8 HBUs
1/2 oz Warrior Hops 8 HBUs
1 oz Amarillo Hops -Dry Hop
1/2 oz Simcoe Hops -Dry Hop
1/2 oz Warrior Hops -Dry Hop
Wyeast British Ale Yeast
For Bottling: 1 1/4 cup Dry Malt Extract Or 3/4 cup Corn sugar
Partial Mash:
Add the cracked, Pilsner Malt and Brown Malt to 1 gal of 170º water. This combination of grain and hot water (mash) will drop in temperature to 150º. Let the mash sit for 1 hour at 150º. Sparge (rinse) the grain with 2 1/2 gals of 170º water and collect run off into the boil kettle.
Boil:
Add to the boil kettle, 8 lbs. of Dry Light Malt Extract and bring to a boil. Watch out for boil overs. In a separate bowl, mix together 2 oz. Amarillo hops, 3/4 oz. Simcoe hops, and 1/2 oz. Warrior hops. For the next 90 minutes, boil the wort while adding 1/4 ounce of the hop mixture every 8 minutes. Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. Add the wort to the fermenter with cold water to make 5 gals. Add yeast when the temp reaches 70º. Ferment at 70º for 7 days or until fermentation slows. Rack to a secondary fermenter.
Dry Hopping:
Add the dry hop combination into the secondary fermenter using a hop sack. Let it age 1 weeks in secondary then bottle or keg
If you keg your beer, add the dry hops into keg instead of the secondary.
For bottling, use 1 1/4 cup of dry malt extract or 3/4 cup of corn sugar boiled with 2 cups of water added in the bottling bucket.
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA Extract Clone (7 Gallon Recipe)
The addition of Amber/Brown Malt in this recipe contributes more to a suttle roast flavor but little of the sweetness you might expect in a beer of amber color. The hop additions to this recipe are not your normal boil/flavor/aroma additions. In the 90 minute boil you will be adding 1/4 ounce (.35 oz to be precise) of hops every 8 minutes followed by another 3 ½ ounces of hops added to the secondary fermenter.
11 ¼ lbs Light Dry Malt Extract (exact conversion is 11.2 lbs)
2 ½ lbs German Pilsner Malt (exact conversion is 2.45 lbs)
2 ½ lbs Brown (amber) Malt 35 L (exact conversion is 2.45 lbs)
3 oz Amarillo Hops 16 HBUs (exact conversion is 2.8 oz)
1 oz Simcoe Hops 8 HBUs (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 oz Warrior Hops 8 HBUs (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 ½ oz Amarillo Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.4 oz)
1 oz Simcoe Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 oz Warrior Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
Wyeast British Ale Yeast
For Bottling: 1 ¾ cup Dry Malt Extract Or 1 cup Corn sugar. {1}
Partial Mash:
Add the cracked, Pilsner Malt and Brown Malt to 1 ½ gal of 170º water. This combination of grain and hot water (mash) will drop in temperature to 150º. Let the mash sit for 1 hour at 150º. Sparge (rinse) the grain with 3 ½ gals of 170º water and collect run off into the boil kettle. {2}
Boil:
Add to the boil kettle, 11 ¼ lbs. of Dry Light Malt Extract and bring to a boil. Watch out for boil overs. In a separate bowl, mix together 3 oz. Amarillo hops, 1 oz. Simcoe hops, and 1 oz. Warrior hops. For the next 90 minutes, boil the wort while adding just over 1/4 ounce (.35 oz to be precise) of the hop mixture every 8 minutes. Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. {3} Add the wort to the fermenter with cold water to make 7 gals. Add yeast starter when the temp reaches 70º. {4} Ferment at 70º for 7 days or until fermentation slows. Rack to a secondary fermenter.
Dry Hopping:
Add the dry hop combination into the secondary fermenter using a hop sack. {5} Let it age 1 weeks in secondary then bottle. {6}
Bottling:
For bottling, use 1 ¾ cup of dry malt extract or 1 cup of corn sugar boiled with 3 cups of water added in the bottling bucket. {1}
DME is more expensive than corn sugar or table sugar, I don't know why you wouldn't just use sugar.My questions:
1) My standard rule so far has been 1oz of dextrose per gallon of "final product" that is actually in the bottling bucket... By the numbers I'd assume that DMEextrose = 1.75:1? I'm also assuming that you boil the DME with water, like you would boil dextrose with water? Directions were unclear, but I'm going with common sense on that assumption. 1.75oz DME per gallon in the bottling bucket, boiled in 3 cups of water sound about right? I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous about bottling with DME, but I said the same after ditching the carb drops for dextrose... And that has worked great.
You don't need to sparge with that much water. I would do the BIAB method where you just let it sit in 170* water for some time. Using 5 lbs of grain for your mash, you will have very little water needed for this. (1.25 quarts per pound)2) That puts 5 gallons in my 5 ½ gallon boil kettle. Looks Like I'll need to upgrade if I don't want to boil over (indoor, stovetop). Question though is: I have never sparged. Can I do the BIAB sparging method, where I just get a grain bag/filter bag/whatever it's called, that covers the opening of the boil kettle, and sparge the 170º water over the grains that way? I'm assuming that is what they mean, I just want to be clear.
If you strain your wort while adding it to your carboy, sometimes you will want to pour the top-off water over the hop residue you strained out to get more out of it.3) Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. What does this mean? The hops all got added already... Confused.
Yeast starters are good.4) I'll be making a yeast starter. Not really a question there I guess. I was going to go into detail about recovering actual Dogfish Head yeast... But I honestly don't think I'm ready for that yet. Soon though... I found a sweet centrifuge on ebay for short money.
Don't bother using a hop sack, I don't use them.5) Hop sack... I have been just tossing hops in, and letting them settle to the bottom. Again, I've had good luck with this. Do I really have to use a hop sack? I thought it was only for convenience. I autosiphon from secondary into the bottling bucket, which does an excellent job of keeping the sediment at the bottom and not stirring it up into the Ale Pail. Thoughts?
I wouldn't even bother using a secondary. Dry hop right in the primary after it's done.6) Secondary for only a week? That's it? Seems like a short time... I suppose the majority of the conditioning will be in the bottles then?
DME is more expensive than corn sugar or table sugar, I don't know why you wouldn't just use sugar.
You don't need to sparge with that much water. I would do the BIAB method where you just let it sit in 170* water for some time. Using 5 lbs of grain for your mash, you will have very little water needed for this. (1.25 quarts per pound)
If you strain your wort while adding it to your carboy, sometimes you will want to pour the top-off water over the hop residue you strained out to get more out of it.
Yeast starters are good.
Don't bother using a hop sack, I don't use them.
I wouldn't even bother using a secondary. Dry hop right in the primary after it's done.
It won't make a difference in quality between DME and Corn Sugar. The difference will only be in the amount per gallon needed to get the carbonation you want.I have plenty of both... It's not about the cost... I'm more curious about the difference in priming. How does DME method compare to dextrose? I don't use cane sugar because I was told it made crappy unrefined soda bubbles.
Whatever does the best job for this clone, is what I want to use.
Use 1.5 gallons for your mash and 1.5 gallons for your sparge. You will have plenty of room left over after that. Then do everything as you normally would.Ya, it sounded like a lot. 1.5 gallons, BIAB method. Then boil, then DME at flameout?
Ahhhh, makes perfect sense. Great thanks. I never strain though. I let it go right in the primary, then autosiphon to secondary for more settling and clarifying. It's a pretty sweet setup, relatively easy, and produces pretty clear results. Not to mention the beer gets to sit with the hops longer.
I was under the impression that the secondary was recommended for conditioning, for pretty much any brew. I guess I need some clarification on the when's and do's and dont's of secondaries...No?
I used this recipe a few months ago and it turned out great. Give this one time in bottle conditioning...
I tried it after 2 weeks and was a little disappointed, waited another month...and it's made a huge difference.
Zamial said:I have done an all grain version of this and I think you may be headed for some problems...
1) The Original recipe calls for pilsner malt. That would be EXTRA light DME. In a 5 gallon batch 1 pound of dextrose (corn sugar) is ok to add and can complement the beer. I have NEVER heard of anyone using Dextrose (corn sugar) as a base malt. Table sugar will add a cidery taste and may be good for upping the gravity in fruit wine but in beer??? I would use Extra light DME as my base.
TIP: Mix the DME when the water is cool. Mix it in slow and try not to make clumps. DME clumps can be REALLY hard to get to dissolve. There seems to be less clumps when it is mixed cold.
2) huh? Do you have a second kettle? even if it is smaller? If so you can do a "split boil" I did this for a long time and it worked out well enough. If you have not I would steer you to : https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/ seriously, you need to read that link... vs. have us try to reinvent this process for you...
3) This sounds like an odd way of dry hopping. Which the 90 min does have...I am lost...no one I know of sparges the hops...
4) http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html Make a starter or pitch the right amount of vials/packs...
5) This is personal preference. The more that gets filtered out the more viable beer and less trub will be at the bottom of the fermentor. (You can pick up a 2 pack of 5 gallon paint strainer bags at Home depot or Lowes for about $3 and they work just fine. If you brew in a bucket toss one in the bucket (it has an elastic top) dump your wort in and lift out the bag. You can also use them in the boil kettle but it should NEVER touch the bottom.
6) What is a secondary? seriously this is a BIG beer, if you yank this off the yeast cake before it is done it can stall. You can restart the fermentation when you add in priming sugar to bottle it and then you MIGHT have bottle bombs and gushers.
On to the recipe and notes on that...
- 90 minute IPA is CONTINUOUSLY HOPPED for 90 minutes. I broke down the hops into12 - 7.5 min additions of the needed hops. I hope this is what you are planning to do or something similar. Also you are boiling it for 90 minuets right???
- There is a simcoe hops shortage so I hope you have those already...or can source them.
- Pilsner malt requires a protein rest or it will not convert. If you are planning to get fermentables from that pilsner malt you need to steep the grains @ 128-130F for 20-30 minutes then bring the temp up to 150 for 60 min mashing as normal.
Good luck and seriously look at that link...This whole thread is screwy...
Thanks for the tip.
I was under the impression that I could get the majority of the fermentation done in the primary in a week (as in previous brews) then siphon it off into the secondary for the rest of the fermentation to occur. The trub leftover in the primary would include dead and settled yeast, and the hops goo. There should be more than enough healthy yeast in suspension to take care of the rest of the sugars in the secondary, right? My thought process for only a week in primary was to get it off the trub as soon as possible to avoid off-flavors.
Ideally I'd like to get it off the hops after a week, then a month of secondary, then drop in the dry hops, then bottle 2 weeks later as long as I'm at a stable FG...
A week in primary, a month in secondary, 2 weeks dry hopped, at least a month bottle conditioned.
I would primary for a month at least. Don't transfer to secondary until you've confirmed the fermentation is done.
Excellent, thanks for the tips. And more specifically, thanks for the clarification.
It'll be staying in the primary until it's at a stable FG - probably 4-6 weeks, then racked to the secondary for 2 weeks with the hops. Then in the bottles for a couple months ought to mellow it out nicely.
Solid plan? I'm not afraid to admit that I'm still a noob. I am receptive to pointers from you old pros
Also be careful not to let "hoppy" beers sit too long. They wiil fade. I also use o2 barrier caps to slow this down. They seem to keep the flavors improving for a couple of extra weeks on pales,APA's,IPA's,that kind of thing. I'm sold on them,& they only cost about a buck more per 144cnt bag.
I think the FG will be stable long before the 4 week mark, especially if you're fermenting at 70*F as per the recipe. The long Primary mostly allows for yeast cleanup and clearing.
Your plan sounds great though. I'd go with a 1 week dry hop just to ensure it doesn't get too grassy. If you want, you can do this in Primary and entirely bypass Secondary.
Do you sanitize these before putting them on? I know it's always a debate, just had to ask since you mentioned them. I've never used them but I'm considering for a future batch.
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