Bottom of vessel plumbing

So I am planning on plumbing the outlets of my 3 vessel herms electric setup from the center of the bottom of the kettles. Doesn't seem like most people do this but I would think it would be more efficient and easier to clean after brew day. Any reason not to?

Nate

Not going bottom-drains on my system I regret very much. As long as you have a semi-permanent setup (Not hauling it out of the closet or something every brewday) I'd definitely do it.

As long as you're going with a semi-permanent install, absolutely! No pickup tubes, no tipping, etc. If you're using converted kegs, you're all good. If using a flat bottom vessel, mount the drain fitting near an edge and then build your mounting frame a little bit off-level. I think a slope of 1/8 to 1/4" per 12" length is sufficient from a sanitary design perspective to ensure you're self draining.

Did you already cut the TOPS off the kegs? If not, flip them over and use these kits.

http://www.brewhardware.com/valves/137-tcsanke

Bobby, would the bottom drain kit you sell work with this keg?

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/home_brew/kegs/KEG-1215.5G-D_threaded_D_valve_keg.html

Thanks
Stephen

Yes, as far as I know the 2" triclover flange will mate with any sanke neck.

Thanks Bobby!

That seems like a good kit for kegs. What's the best method for pots?

Here is what I ended up doing with my E-Brewery Kal-setup.

Cut hole in brew bench.


Place in "open bottom" disposal flange to protect the wood.


View looking through the "Handle" of the keg.


Valve assembly from bottom side. I would have turned it 90* like Bobby's kit but I worried about feeding an "elbow" shape through the hole in the bench top. The HLT with the HERMS coil in it is somewhat clumsy trying to feed the valve through the hole already. I can not imagine trying it with an elbow on there.


Here are all my keggles on the bench.


I purchased the 2" triclamp to 1/2" female NPT adapter because it let me use whatever length nipple extending to the valves. I may go with longer nipples once I get a few batches through this system. Just depends on how difficult it is to operate the valves in their current location.

Bobby...
When did you start offering these kits? Man, I wish I would have been able to support you with my order when I pieced together my bottom drain assembly. You may give thought to offering another 5 pc kit option in your order menu for these. A Female NPT adapter with a few nipple lengths to chose from.

gnatp2 said:

That seems like a good kit for kegs. What's the best method for pots?

Click to expand...

For pots, I'd solder in a 1/2" welding spud.

Huaco said:

Bobby...
When did you start offering these kits? Man, I wish I would have been able to support you with my order when I pieced together my bottom drain assembly. You may give thought to offering another 5 pc kit option in your order menu for these. A Female NPT adapter with a few nipple lengths to chose from.

Click to expand...

Just recently, a few weeks ago.

This will give you an idea of what I did. https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/galler...52386&title=inverted-bottom-drain-hlt&cat=500

Hope it helps

Bobby_M said:

For pots, I'd solder in a 1/2" welding spud.

Click to expand...

Is there such thing as a "weldless" welding spud? I like that it will allow for a complete drain as it doesn't protrude inside the kettle, but I'm not sure if I have the skill for welding.

Check out the "soldering stainless" thread in DIY.

iijakii said:

Check out the "soldering stainless" thread in DIY.

Click to expand...

It's easier than you think.

BigSally said:

It's easier than you think.

Click to expand...

+1 on this.

It sure does look intimidating. But, once I did my first one, it was fun to do the rest. I mean you get to put fire on something!

Just do it in real good ventilation. NASTIES come off that flux!

You CAN make the bottom port weldless, but there's no way to do it where nothing protrudes into the keg. The best I could figure is that you can use a 1/2" x 3/8" NPT hex reducing bushing and grind down the height of the hex so barely any of it sticks up inside. Yes, that would work out just fine. Then a big gasket on the outside followed by an elbow.

Bottom drain is the way to , here's a pic of my boil ekeggle.