American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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cushdan said:
Yooper (or anybody),
For adding the Warrior hops, you say:

"first warrior only for the first 25 minutes just a few pellets at a time, then remainder all mixed together and continuosly added"

Does this mean that the .75 oz of warrior you used was all in by the end of the first 25 minutes? or was there some left over that you added with the later additions.

Thanks
Click to expand...

It was all in before I started adding the later additions. I put about 1/2 in right at 60 minutes, then gradually put a pellet or two in at a time until it was time to start the later additions. My goal was to finish up the warrior hops before starting on the amarillo/simcoe mix.
 
I brewed up this recipe last Sunday. The only thing I changed was the yeast. I used Ringwood ale yeast. My fermentor is still bubblin today, 9 days after pitching. Most of my fermentations take 3-4 days. Is this because its a bigger beer?
 
^ maybe the different strain of yeast?

i brewed last sunday as well, and my SG has been pretty constant between today and yesterday...

I moved to secondary tonight. Gonna wait a few days to make sure all airlock activity is 100% done, then add in the dryhops...

it was delicious though. Had a nice hop-bite. I'm assuming the bite will settle down a bit due to conditioning, but man it's awesomely delicious already.
 
I doubt anyone needs more convincing to make this after 29 pages in this thread. But just in case, I brewed the extract version of this and I've been enjoying it for several weeks now.

I used WLP001 yeast and added hops from the specified times (60,30,25) all the way through the boil. This probably put the IBU's down to around 50 but it is still delicious.
 
I'd use the "regular" two row, unless you had a reason to buy the pale malt in quantity and wanted to use it in several recipes. The pale malt reminds me of maris otter malt- a good malt, to be sure. But leaving a maltier taste. I don't think it will make a huge difference, but I didn't really care for the version I did with maris otter malt in this recipe. You want a "clean" flavor so the hops shine through.
 
YooperBrew said:
It was all in before I started adding the later additions. I put about 1/2 in right at 60 minutes, then gradually put a pellet or two in at a time until it was time to start the later additions. My goal was to finish up the warrior hops before starting on the amarillo/simcoe mix.
Click to expand...

you might want to put a note about this in the first post. i was a little unclear on it and ended up just adding the warrior at a constant rate starting at 60 minutes rather than putting 1/2 in off the bat. the sample still tastes quite good, but i feel like it could be a touch more bitter. i'm sure it will still be great beer though.

thanks for the recipe, i'm looking forward to trying it.
 
Is this right? Can you realy make this beer with only 3.25 oz. of hops? I notice the second recipe uses 10.75 oz. which seems more reasonable for an IPA. Still, the idea that I could make this yummy beer so inexpensively is intriguing. Hell, I already have the malt at home.

Don't know if this issue has been raised but I haven't been through all 29 pages.

Thanks,
Mark
 
What kind of efficiency are you getting to achieve 1.070 OG? I just brewed this on Sunday and ended up at 1.06 with ~5.75g in the fermenter. My calculations net me around 73% brewhouse efficiency, but I'm still way off from 1.070!
 
CremaCat said:
Is this right? Can you realy make this beer with only 3.25 oz. of hops? I notice the second recipe uses 10.75 oz. which seems more reasonable for an IPA. Still, the idea that I could make this yummy beer so inexpensively is intriguing. Hell, I already have the malt at home.

Don't know if this issue has been raised but I haven't been through all 29 pages.

Thanks,
Mark
Click to expand...

phidelt844 said:
What kind of efficiency are you getting to achieve 1.070 OG? I just brewed this on Sunday and ended up at 1.06 with ~5.75g in the fermenter. My calculations net me around 73% brewhouse efficiency, but I'm still way off from 1.070!
Click to expand...

I get 73% almost always, in a 5 gallon batch. (If you got 1.060 at 5.75 gallons, that's a little over 71%- pretty close to mine, but I only did 5 gallons).

The hops? I use .75 ounces of warrior, .50 ounce of amarillo and simcoe (each) in the boil, and then use 1.5 ounces of hops for dryhopping. So, that's 3.25 ounces of hops total. The warrior is very high AAUs (in the neighborhood of 15-17%) and the simcoe is also pretty high at 12%, and the amarillo is 9%. I don't know what "second" recipe you're referring to, so I can't compare it to this one, sorry!
 
I've decided to do a 10G batch of this w/ the ringwood yeast; but I'm having a hell of a time finding the thomas fawcett amber malt! Not one local shop carries it, nor can they suggest a good substitution. I purchased some german cara-amber and english brown malt, but I don't think either is the taste I'm looking for based upon the description of the TF amber malt.

Anyway, is there another place to buy it other than north country malt? Seems like $20 is a lot to spend for 1lb of it!!!
 
It's been hit or miss for me finding it, too. Sometimes I use a mix of crystal 20L and some biscuit malt, or use some victory malt. I saw this earlier: Roasting Malt and I think I'm going to try that. Just make it at home! It sounds easy. I've toasted malt before in my oven, but never more than just a toast. I will try this the next time I don't have any amber malt.
 
:( sighhhhhhhhhh.................
You learn something new everyday, Today I learned how NOT to do something.

well I'm not sure that I should attempted this for a 5th brew. So how will and OG of 1.08 affect the beer?
I'm not quite sure what I did wrong, but I have a few different ideas.
I learned that with more hops I need to develop a different way to filter wort, (I'm searching the forum). A screened colander over the primary clogged up repeatedly with all the additional hops. Could some of the unfiltered wort, that got in to the primary, raise the OG? or should I be looking for other foibles?

Thanks
I'm sure that I have not ruined the batch.
I just need to improve my technique with more practice brewing. :D
 
Nitsua- Don't despair. I brewed this as my 5th beer as well. When brewing a beer with this many hops it's not a bad idea to use a large hop bag in the wort. If you check the gallery, you will see some ideas of how to suspend a hop bag in the wort. This includes a design which will hold these cinch-able bags open for continual hopping!
As far as taking gravity readings, take your sample after the hops have settled.

I have found it's easier to siphon my wort into primary. If you stir the wort fluidly in one direction before you start, the centrifugal force will move the hop sediment to the outside of the pot. Siphon from the middle.
I digress.

Has anyone used Wyeast 1099 Whitbread for their DFH clone?
 
McPintley said:
I have found it's easier to siphon my wort into primary. If you stir the wort fluidly in one direction before you start, the centrifugal force will move the hop sediment to the outside of the pot. Siphon from the middle.
Click to expand...


I thought this would put everything in the center and leave the outter ring clean.
 
This was my second all grain batch and 4th overall batch. Sat in the primary for three weeks and then bottled. After only two weeks in the bottle I sampled one last night. It was at least as good as any beer I've ever bought anywhere. I am extremely pleased!

I used some washed WLP001 I had from my first batch... seems to have worked well!

Thanks, Yooper!
 
YooperBrew said:
When I did the conversion to extract for someone, I came up with this:

8 pounds 8 ounces DME
1 pound crystal 40L

For an og of 1.075. I would use the crystal and just skip the amber malt. For LME, I think 9.9 pounds would be about right.

I'm not sure about the hopping, though, if you're doing a partial boil. If you are boiling less than 5 gallons, let me run it through Beersmith for you (unless you have your own software).
Click to expand...

It's in about posts #27-29!
 
Finally got a first taste of a batch of this I brewed on 3/1. Turned out a bit sweet, but I was expecting that as it had a FG of 1.022 (OG 1.077). Hop-wise it's damn delicious but it's got an almost syrupy mouthfeel. Still happy with it, but it wants to be better, so I'd like to try it again.

Any ideas as to which of the below may have had the biggest impact on sweetness:

Used 1 lb of Crystal 60 instead of 40
underpitched yeast (confirmed at Mr Malty), two activated Wyeast (Pacman) packs, no starter
Fermentation started out on the warm side at 72F for 2 days, then I over-compensated taking it down to 65, then it fell to 60-63 for a week, then I raised it up in the end trying to get it to finish, but it was just done.

Thanks for any help. I think I'll go with less crystal next time, but also planning for sure to do a starter and monitor temps better.
 
2bluewagons said:
Finally got a first taste of a batch of this I brewed on 3/1. Turned out a bit sweet, but I was expecting that as it had a FG of 1.022 (OG 1.077). Hop-wise it's damn delicious but it's got an almost syrupy mouthfeel. Still happy with it, but it wants to be better, so I'd like to try it again.

Any ideas as to which of the below may have had the biggest impact on sweetness:

Used 1 lb of Crystal 60 instead of 40
underpitched yeast (confirmed at Mr Malty), two activated Wyeast (Pacman) packs, no starter
Fermentation started out on the warm side at 72F for 2 days, then I over-compensated taking it down to 65, then it fell to 60-63 for a week, then I raised it up in the end trying to get it to finish, but it was just done.

Thanks for any help. I think I'll go with less crystal next time, but also planning for sure to do a starter and monitor temps better.
Click to expand...

Was this an extract batch? It seems like it is, if you used crystal. I'm thinking that the main problem might be older extract, especially if it's liquid, and the underpitched yeast. You could try rehydrating some dry yeast like s-05, and then see if you can bring it down a bit. You've already got 7% ABV, but only 69% attenuation. If you're brewing a different beer, you may want to consider racking this beer to the yeast cake and see if you can coax out about 6 more gravity points. That would make the beer less sweet.
 
Yeah, sorry left a few things out there, thanks for trying to sort out my post.

It was an extract batch, and I thought the LME at my shop gets pretty good turnaround, but maybe not...

Also forgot to mention I already bottled it after I got an apparently bad hydro reading of 1.019 and moved it to secondary to dry-hop. Then at bottling it was 1.022, so I dunno...

So this one is what it is, and it's not bad. But I'd like to try this recipe again soon, so maybe I'll look at DME next time.

Thanks for the recipe and the help, Yooper!
 
Finally got mine brewed - been waiting on this for a while. It was my 3rd all grain. Pre boil gravity was a bit low, and I realized I used about a gallon too much sparge water. So I ended up boiling for about 70 mins at a higher flame. I was aiming for 5.5 gal in the fermentor, and ended up with closer to 5.75. SG was 1.067 vs the predicted 1.070, so I was quite happy in the end.

Can't wait to drink it now!
 
I am planning to do this as a partial-mash. For 5 gallons, I calculated the following:

2-row: 7 lbs
Caramel or crystal malt: 0.375 lbs
LME: 4.5 lbs

Does that make sense? I realize the hops need a "bump" for a PM or extract batch.
 
Thanks, YooperBrew. I will do this in my mini-mash-tun (built from a 2-gallon cooler) which has pretty good efficiency.

Hoping to increase the number of successful 60-Minute IPA clones by women by +1 next weekend!
 
Yooper i just wanted to say wow! This recipe is delicious I tried a few days ago at 3 weeks in the bottle and it was amazing. Aroma is everything I could want in an IPA and the taste has really developed! Hoping by week 4 week it will be perfect so I can get to drinking. By about what time do you think it hits its peak? Don't want to start drinking too early
 
I just made this AG recipe again and I can't figure out what went wrong. My OG was 1.066 and and my FG was 1.012, I also hit all my temps. I did 10 days in primary and 7 in secondary. I then kegged and put in the dryhops, I'm planning to let it sit a few weeks in the keg. I poured a small sample to see what it tastes like and the color is extremely light. It looks almost like a coors light. What could have happened? Would my lower OG cause this? My other attempts at this came out darker.
 
I'm new to AG - would CaraAmber be a suitable replacement for the Thomas Fawcett Amber? (The store didn't have any of the latter - CaraAmber was all I found...) Or should I just revert back to the Maris Otter?

Really looking forward to brewing this next weekend - I was just introduced to DFH about 3 weeks ago - all I could say was WOW!
 
nyer said:
I just made this AG recipe again and I can't figure out what went wrong. My OG was 1.066 and and my FG was 1.012, I also hit all my temps. I did 10 days in primary and 7 in secondary. I then kegged and put in the dryhops, I'm planning to let it sit a few weeks in the keg. I poured a small sample to see what it tastes like and the color is extremely light. It looks almost like a coors light. What could have happened? Would my lower OG cause this? My other attempts at this came out darker.
Click to expand...

This is a light colored beer. SRM of 5 or so.
 
d20636 said:
I'm new to AG - would CaraAmber be a suitable replacement for the Thomas Fawcett Amber? (The store didn't have any of the latter - CaraAmber was all I found...) Or should I just revert back to the Maris Otter?

Really looking forward to brewing this next weekend - I was just introduced to DFH about 3 weeks ago - all I could say was WOW!
Click to expand...

I don't think I"d use the CaraAmber- that's a sweet malt I think. I've never used it, so I'm not sure exactly what characteristics it has beyond sweetness. If you have some Munich malt, or Victory malt, that might be closer to the flavor you are looking for. It's such a small amount so you could probably even do just 100% base melt, and leave it out, and not really notice because of all of the hops!
 
YooperBrew said:
I don't think I"d use the CaraAmber- that's a sweet malt I think. I've never used it, so I'm not sure exactly what characteristics it has beyond sweetness. If you have some Munich malt, or Victory malt, that might be closer to the flavor you are looking for. It's such a small amount so you could probably even do just 100% base melt, and leave it out, and not really notice because of all of the hops!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice - I'll leave the CaraAmber out and save it for another time - I'm pretty sure my LHBS has Munich - I'll get out there this weekend for the Big Brew and get some. Thanks! :mug:

(BTW - are the hops really noticeable in this brew? :D j/k)
 
Just finished bottling a partial mash variant of this recipe and if the hydrometer sample is indicative of things to come, it will be delicious.

I hit 1.074 SG, finished at 1.018 for ~7.5% ABV. Used S-05 yeast because that's what I had available.

My PM variant:

5 pounds 2-row
.5 pound crystal 40L
7 pounds LME
1oz warrior
.75oz simcoe
.75oz amarillo
(same dry hopping as original recipe)

Thanks for the recipe and all the feedback! I'll update when I crack the first bottle.
 
Thoughts on adding Apricots to this? If so, how and how much? I've been looking for something like an Aprihop so perhaps adding apricots to this will give me something of the like? MmmMmm Tasty
 
jonbrout said:
Thoughts on adding Apricots to this? If so, how and how much? I've been looking for something like an Aprihop so perhaps adding apricots to this will give me something of the like? MmmMmm Tasty
Click to expand...

I don't like fruit beers, so I've never tried anything like that. I would think that will all of the grapefruity hops flavor that apricots would not work in this beer, though.
 
Thanks for the input Yooper, however, doesn't Aprihop also have grapefruity hops along with the apricots flavoring? At least if I recall correctly it does.... *shrug* Anyone?
 
Just opened my first bottle of this and after only 10 days it has exceeded my expectations. Great recipe, thanks for all the advice and knowledge spread throughout this thread.

I'll definitely be brewing this one again... maybe more hops next time. :D
 
i'm doing this tomorrow, with a some variation, but the numbers are fairly close to the actual beer. it's about 10 ibu's more and 1/2% stronger.

using whole leaf hops except for the warrior, which are pellets.

Type: Extract
Date: 5/17/2009
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer: jason c
Boil Size: 2.50 gal Asst Brewer: wyatt h
Boil Time: 75 min Equipment: Brew Pot (4 Gallon)

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 59.52 % (at 75 minutes)
3.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 35.71 % (at flameout)
0.40 lb British Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 4.76 % (steeping grains)
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (Dry Hop 12 days)
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (Dry Hop 12 days)
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (60 min) Hops 4.9 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (60 min) Hops 6.1 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (60 min) Hops 3.2 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (45 min) Hops 4.5 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (45 min) Hops 5.6 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (45 min) Hops 2.9 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (30 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (30 min) Hops 3.8 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (30 min) Hops 4.7 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (15 min) Hops 3.0 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (15 min) Hops 1.6 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (15 min) Hops 2.4 IBU
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep)
1 Pkgs Ringwood Ale (Wyeast Labs #1187) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.070 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.010 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.020 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.005 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 6.56 %
Bitterness: 72.2 IBU
Est Color: 9.4 SRM

View attachment 60ipaclone.bsm
 

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