So I'm trying to do this to my fridge as well. I have a Danby 50 bottle wine chiller that goes to 41F. I would like to get it to 35F using a temperature controller & bypassing the internal thermostat.
I've attached a photo of what the compressor compartment looks like. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions for me?
Its called Danby Silhouette DWC512BL
This is what my circuit diagram looks like.
I have googled it and there are some people describing the process for Danby kegerators but I couldn't find anything for the wine chiller.
Couldn't I just take the thermostat out somehow and leave it at room temp so it will always COOL and then the external controller will shut it off when it gets to my desired temp?
Could it be that simple? If so - any suggestions on where to look for thermostat?
This is what my circuit diagram looks like.
I have googled it and there are some people describing the process for Danby kegerators but I couldn't find anything for the wine chiller.
Couldn't I just take the thermostat out somehow and leave it at room temp so it will always COOL and then the external controller will shut it off when it gets to my desired temp?
Could it be that simple? If so - any suggestions on where to look for thermostat?
bosster01,
- Locate the thermostat that controls the cooler. It should have several wires attached. There may be a wiring diagram inside the unit somewhere. (2) wires should be the input power wires. (1 or 2) should run to the temperature probe. (1 probably) should run from the thermostat either to a relay, board or directly to the compressor/fans.
If you need to pull out a multi meter, BE CAREFUL, figure out which wires are the input wires (+120V and "ground"), figure out what happens when the thermostat says the cooler needs to be cooled. Most likely the thermostat will open an internal relay and allow +120V to the wire that is controlling the compressor/fans. Wire around the thermostat so that anytime the cooler has power the compressor/fans turn on. Hook up the temp controller like normal, since the compressor is now hard wired anytime the unit is turned on by the controller it will start cooling.
Jason
Unplug the unit. Locate the thermostat. There are 2 leads going to it. Remove them from the thermostat and connect them to eachother. Remove the thermostat and its temp sensor. Install your external controller and temp sensor. Boom.
You make it sound simple....... and it is. Folks here have a tendency to make mountains out of molehills. I personally would not connect the two leads together where the thermostat was, but tie into my external controller there, as I want my light, etc to work. The really quick and dirty way is to simply adjust the internal to max (most fridges will max out far colder than you want), and control power from the wall through the external controller.
You make it sound simple....... and it is. Folks here have a tendency to make mountains out of molehills. I personally would not connect the two leads together where the thermostat was, but tie into my external controller there, as I want my light, etc to work. The really quick and dirty way is to simply adjust the internal to max (most fridges will max out far colder than you want), and control power from the wall through the external controller.
I see you added more info that I didn't see when I posted. For the second option I gave, bypassing the thermostat, use this ****ty drawing as reference.
So is this an option for me or not? It would be nice to have my light work!
I just bought a DIY temp control (dual stage) from a local homebrewer who sells them fro 40$ with everything.
It's an option if you have a suitable thermostat with a delay built in so the fridge will not snap on and off on short intervals. I've never had a fridge where I couldn't access the thermostat fairly easily. The thermostat of course is right behind the adjusting knob, and can usually be accessed right there. The compressor is normally underneath, and you can if you are clever do it all from underneath. You will have hot and neutral lines all down there. If you find the hot wire from the thermostat to the compressor, you can cut that and feed it from your thermostat. It should be easy to trace which is which, as the neutral goes back and connects to other neutrals, and the hot goes only to the thermostat. You can simply cap off the supply from the internal thermostat. No matter how you do it, it's not rocket science. Working from underneath is a pain, but if you're creative, it should not be that difficult. laying the fridge on it's side is probably the easiest way to access wiring underneath. I've replaced the thermostat in my fridge ( GE ), and it will have a neutral line connected, and a hot from the thermostat. You can simply cut and cap this wireproved extremely easy.......that's how I personally would approach it....... and I intend to install an STC 1000 eventually because factory controls suck!!
H.W.
I don't have a dial, I have buttons. I still think I found the thermostat though based on my picture above.
I guess I just don't have a good way of understanding which wires I should mess with.
OR if I should even mess with the wires at all because maybe I can just extend my probe to outside the fridge - so that it'll cool it.
My goal is the easiest/most reversible repair possible to get the job done.
Thanks again for the help.
The one big red wire going to the transformer is probably the power in, the other is probably power to the compressor. The small red is the evaporator fan according to the diagram.
What I would do is cut all three red wires, leaving enough to connect back with wire nuts if you decide to. I would then plug the fridge in, and use a volt ohm meter to determine which is the hot wire. Use the green (ground) wire as your neutral for testing. Once you determine the hot wire, both other reds should be connected to the output of your thermostat so the evaporator fan runs whenever the compressor is on. The control you have is designed to run the fan longer than the compressor, hence the two leads. This results in a bit better efficiency, but older fridges didn't do this, and it obviously isn't necessary.
The green wire of course will connect to something metal in the body of the fridge.
H.W.
The one big red wire going to the transformer is probably the power in, the other is probably power to the compressor. The small red is the evaporator fan according to the diagram.
What I would do is cut all three red wires, leaving enough to connect back with wire nuts if you decide to. I would then plug the fridge in, and use a volt ohm meter to determine which is the hot wire. Use the green (ground) wire as your neutral for testing. Once you determine the hot wire, both other reds should be connected to the output of your thermostat so the evaporator fan runs whenever the compressor is on. The control you have is designed to run the fan longer than the compressor, hence the two leads. This results in a bit better efficiency, but older fridges didn't do this, and it obviously isn't necessary.
The green wire of course will connect to something metal in the body of the fridge.
H.W.
So then I don't mess with the wires that are actually attached to the thermostat? I just cut all 3 reds > find out which ones hot > attach the 2 other wires to the output of thermostat?? what is the output (which wire) > then what do I do with the hot wire?
Here is a better look at the thermostat - this is definitely the thermostat right?
That is a transformer. Not a thermostat...
Cheers!
I have yet to see a picture of a thermostat in your sub-thread.
Go back to the "dial thing" you referred to earlier and take a picture of it...
Cheers!
Could the thermostat be this thing that is attached to the compressor?
I suspect the thermostat is up in the area of the display.
If this shot is the back side of the thing with the digital display, that relay (the black rectangular thing) indicates the thermostat function is in that unit.
It's digital, of course, so you're not going to see the capillary/bulb/pressure switch of a mechanical thermostat.
So if you wanted to continue your pursuit, you need to figure out how to take over the function of that relay...
Cheers!
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