Hermit
fuddle
I should post a picture of mine. No box. Just cut up some extension cords and wired them in. That way I can still plug things in and don't have to alter my heat/cool devices at all.
that was also me wig the cardboard. I tried again, and tried twisting it the opposite way - it worked better enough for me to get rid of the cardboard, but still not perfect. but at Lear there is no potentially flammable paper product in my project box now!!
qualitylink2000 or globalconn are good sellers.
All adjustments and displays are in 0.1*C granularity.
I am new to the forum, but have been following this thread for a little while and finally got myself one of these controllers and installed it this weekend.
Instead of wiring it into a box with an outlet I took the approach of wiring it directly into the the fridge replacing the factory thermostat (based on this design https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/side-side-fermentation-chamber-build-105054/). I have not hooked up the hot side yet as I don't quite need it yet this year.
I used 14/2 wire, pulled out the ground as it wasn't needed, and used an extra piece of white wire with the black stripes which goes back to the relay in the fridge to turn it on. I made all the connections behind the controller with push on connectors and spade connectors inside the wire housing of the fridge.
Here is how it looks on the door of the fridge: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/05NkQCipJ9crZV_L3EVicw0WnSYwTZXP6B4edoFLboY?feat=directlink
Backside of the controller inside the fridge:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7KNbDQIsvSDPI3LN29kGZQ0WnSYwTZXP6B4edoFLboY?feat=directlink
It's taped and insulated to the keg which is full of a Pale Ale clone which was brewed on Saturday:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rzIg3VIdtgJC8RDC201zJw0WnSYwTZXP6B4edoFLboY?feat=directlink
Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread with their designs, this was really fun and an awesome dual stage controller for $30 + $14 parts from HD to install this.
Yup.
No that should not matter. Double check your wiring.
Computer fans are generally 12v DC. If you can locate an old wall wart or power supply from a cordless phone or something along that line that's 12v it can be adapted to run them. It will usually have some sort of coaxial cable going to the pin-the center cable will be one pole, the outer braid the other pole.
i made a workable F to C chart in Excel if anyone wants it....
change the colors or change the numbers on the chart...
i found that i wanted to know the F to C conversion more than the C to F
for example i know my yeast ferms in the 65-70 F range
i can check the chart:
65F = 18.33 C
so i round up to 18.4 C then add the .5 C for my differential. set my temp controller to 18.9 C
so if temperature drops the heater kicks back on at 18.4
anywho
here it is
http://sddnb.com/brew/F to C Chart.xls
also if you want a different temperature range... just change the 1st number in the upper left cell
I have checked several times. I even tried to hook up only the power and nothing. I think I fried it.
Can it cause problems if the wire is overheated? i.e. solder iron was applied to long
Thanks for the chart, just posted it next to my controller
ah man I think I fried mine. I plugged it in last night for a quick second and made sure the temp was at the right setting. then unplugged it. after brewing I plugged it in and within a few seconds the screen went blank. since then I haven't been able to get anything out of it.
I made sure the power supply wired were all conected good. I've got power to the screws on the temp controller.
the fridge Im using claims it only pulls 1.8 amps.
man does anyone have any suggestions besides ordering a new one? I'm at a loss here ??
I think I'm going to plug it in and check to see if there's power to the cool outlet. maybe only the screen went bad...but that still means I need ot get a new one....damn !!!
[edit] BTW I've used it twice before so I know it did work at one time
anyone have any idea besides just getting another one?
Hey all,
I'm trying to replace the stock thermostat in my kegerator with one of the ebay ones. I've attached a diagram of what I think I should be doing. Can someone let me know if this makes sense?
I don't think I should require heating, do I need a jumper or something for those spots?
Also, can I use speaker wire for the connections? I have some of that lying around.
Thanks in advance!
I don't understand what you have going on there. you should have the power going to the controller (pins 1 and 2) right off the input cord (black and white). Then I think you should have pin 7 wire to the black input and pin 8 go to the red of the compressor (before the overload protector!)
The fridge was made in 2005 (I would define this as 'newer') but perhaps I'm not explaining the problem adequately. The stock controller is garbage, which is why I want to replace it. I bought the ebay controller but I'm not 100% sure about the wiring, which was my original query. Does this make more sense? The revised diagram (thank you Bjornbrewer) is provided below again if someone wants to comment on it. Does this make sense for replacing the stock controller?
Should I split the power cord to the fridge for powering the controller or should I give it a dedicated line?
Yeah, I guess I mis-typed thermostat when I really meant controller. The controller is simply not engaging the compressor until there is a very large temperature deviation from the set point. This is where the wiring question came in.
The way to use this controller with an intact fridge/freezer is to set the fridge's original equipment temperature dial/setting to the coldest possible setting, then plug the fridge into the controller outlet (when wired using the standard schematic). Are you saying that your fridge, in original factory dress, will not reliably turn on when it set to the lowest possible temp, and internal temps are above the range for fermenting/serving?
Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. I think the fridge I bought was not a good choice for a kegerator. The minimum temperature I can set is 43F (ie. the coldest setting) and the controller allows the temperature to reach over 53F before signaling the compressor to turn on.
Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. I think the fridge I bought was not a good choice for a kegerator. The minimum temperature I can set is 43F (ie. the coldest setting) and the controller allows the temperature to reach over 53F before signaling the compressor to turn on. I should have checked this out before the warranty expired, it wasn't originally meant for a kegerator.
Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. I think the fridge I bought was not a good choice for a kegerator. The minimum temperature I can set is 43F (ie. the coldest setting) and the controller allows the temperature to reach over 53F before signaling the compressor to turn on. I should have checked this out before the warranty expired, it wasn't originally meant for a kegerator.
I would hesitate a little bit to fool the sensor because I wouldn't want the compressor to run constantly and potentially freeze the beer.
If I could hardwire the compressor to always be "on", i could use the strategy that others have used in here with the outlet system.
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