ebay aquarium temp controller build

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chairbornrangerx said:
... soooooo your heating and cooling at the SAME time?

makes as much sense as wiping before you poop? or am I missing something here?
Click to expand...

Yeah, youre missing the part that says "AS NEEDED".
 
chairbornrangerx said:
explain to me when you would NEED to both heat AND cool at the same time?
Click to expand...

Not at the same time. Just at different times.

You may need to heat during the night (cold nights) and cool during the day (temps above 70F, e.g.).

The idea is to maintain a set point. Add heat or cold as needed.

MC
 
Huaco said:
It looks like the controller you speak of is either Heat OR Cool... not both at the same time. The beauty of the ebay controller is that it will run both AS NEEDED to maintain constant temps...
Click to expand...

Whats confusing chairborne is the word both. It should say either. It does do both, but seperately AS NEEDED.
 
chairbornrangerx said:
explain to me when you would NEED to both heat AND cool at the same time?
Click to expand...

Single stage controllers (usually) can heat OR cool. If it's winter and you need the controller to turn on a heating element, you can set some dip switches inside the unit and tell it to turn on the juice when the temperature drops BELOW a certain point. If it's summer and you need the controller to turn on a cooling element, you can set some dip switches inside the unit and tell it to turn on the juice when the temperature drops ABOVE a certain point.

Dual stage controllers heat AND cool. You have two outlets (or plugs) - one is set for sending electricity to a heating element and one is set for sending electricity to a cooling element. So if it gets too warm, the cooling element kicks on and if it gets too cold, then a heating element kicks on.

So it's mainly a convenience thing, but there are some instances where the ambient temperature may vary enough so both automated heating and cooling is desired.

I also have a controller that can be programmed to have both outlets heat and heat some more OR cool and cool some more, but I've never had a need to program it for that.
 
I'm well aware how the controllers work, I've built mine and have an oktoberfest lagering in my garage fridge right now running off the STC-1000 I picked up off ebay.

My point in my post was about how he said they were doing BOTH at the same time.
 
Huaco said:
It looks like the controller you speak of is either Heat OR Cool... not both at the same time. The beauty of the ebay controller is that it will run both AS NEEDED to maintain constant temps...
Click to expand...

Re-read the first sentence. It says right there "not at the same time". Whats the part of that you're not understanding?
 
chairbornrangerx said:
... soooooo your heating and cooling at the SAME time?

makes as much sense as wiping before you poop? or am I missing something here?
Click to expand...

Constructive comment there man... really...?

What I should have said is that you can have a heating AND cooling unit operating out of this unit without having to MANUALLY switch to cooling mode or heating mode. I live in TX and it would be a NIGHTMARE for me to have to babysit a ferm chamber that I had to keep plugging in a cooling device, or plugging in a heating device. This controller works BOTH at the "same time". Not BOTH ON AT THE SAME TIME...

(CAPS LOCK is not yelling... just emphasis)
 
So I attempted to skim through this thread to find out what everyone is using for the heating side?? My basement is cooler that i would like 60F and want something be able to ramp my temps once primary is done.

Suggestions please!
 
That's exactly what I did. I used a quart sized paint can and had to cut off a lot of the plastic lamp assembly (I didn't use the pancake box either). It's a really tight fit, and the lid doesn't go on all the way, but it heats really well!

ForumRunner_20120130_185657.jpg


ForumRunner_20120130_185851.jpg
 
ACESFULL said:
So I attempted to skim through this thread to find out what everyone is using for the heating side?? My basement is cooler that i would like 60F and want something be able to ramp my temps once primary is done.

Suggestions please!
Click to expand...

ReptiHeat Cable - 50 watt. 23 feet long, the first 6 1/2 feet does not produce heat. Made by Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
 
voltin said:
I am not positive, but I have seen an EE error when my temperature probe was not attached. Is it possible that your temperature probe got disconnected or damaged in some way?
Click to expand...


I forgot to mention we replaced the probe and receptacle and no change.
 
dmbRedGetta said:
That's exactly what I did. I used a quart sized paint can and had to cut off a lot of the plastic lamp assembly (I didn't use the pancake box either). It's a really tight fit, and the lid doesn't go on all the way, but it heats really well!
Click to expand...

Do you by chance get a terrible smell from the paint can? The only thing I can think of is the heat is melting the lining of the can.
 
rack04 said:
Do you by chance get a terrible smell from the paint can? The only thing I can think of is the heat is melting the lining of the can.
Click to expand...

Yeah, there's a weird smell from it, but I haven't taken the bulb out to really look at it. I'll check it out and report back.
 
I went out and got a ceramic reptile heater from Petco. Just get one of their 150 watt clamp-on light fixtrures and away you go. I have been able to hold at 66 in a relatively large chamber (5X3X3) with 11 gallons of beer pretty steady.
 
dmbRedGetta said:
Yeah, there's a weird smell from it, but I haven't taken the bulb out to really look at it. I'll check it out and report back.
Click to expand...

There's no signs of melting or anything yet. I've only been using it a couple days though.
 
Does anyone have the transformers to change a 220 to a 110?? Please send me a message and I will gladly pay whatever is fair.
 
For heat, I use the top of my dehydrator that I use to make jerky. It's the cheap round dehydrator. It basically circulates warm air around my freezer to kick the temp up when needed.
 
Well, just built mine based on the original design. Super easy to build (this was my first time wiring anything). I tested it on two lamps and it worked perfectly. I am now using it to cool my mini fridge fermentation chamber which is going down to almost freezing for a cold crash on my winter warmer. Thanks again!
 
cpatel479 said:
I got mine and wired it up but I am unsure of how the f2, f3, and f4 settings are used. Can someone please explain it to me?
Click to expand...

F2 is for the variance in temp. For example if you have F1 set for 2 deg Celsius and F2 set for 1 deg Celsius, the temp control would trigger at 1 (heat) and 3 (cool) degree Celsius.

F3 is a timer to keep your compressor from kicking on every 30 seconds. I set mine at 10 so there is at least 10 minutes between each time my device kicks on. Limiting the amount of times it can kick on will hopefully extend the life of it

F4 is one I don't use. It is an adjustment to correct the temp probe readings if they are off. I've never messed with it

You should have received a slip of paper in the box explaining this.
 
I want to use this controller just for heating my fermentation chamber.

Can I wire it like it is shown in manual:

izrezakkb.jpg


In other words: why do we have to use different wiring scheme, as OP did?
Also, do i need to connect both cooling and heating elements or I can use only one (heating in my case)?
 
Wire it like the OP did and don't plug anything into the cooling circuit. You have to supply the power to 5/6 and 7/8 (which gets passed along to the devices you have plugged in to those circuits). The controller is only an intelligent switch. Don't try re-inventing the wheel.
 
Has anyone used this to regulate mash temp on a HERMS setup?

Basically I want to use a March pump to circulate my mash liquid through a coil in my HLT. I want to automate the circlulation by plugging into this controller and putting the prob in a trermowell in the mash.
 
infection said:
if anyone ordered the wrong controller (220 V) I have 4 extra replacement transformers that can be soldered in....just pay my cost plus shipping and i'll send them right out
Click to expand...

I'm looking to get my hands on one (or two if available) transformers to turn 220V units into 110V. Please PM me if you have any leftover.
 
I just picked up an old appartment fridge the other day for $25.

I just put the aquarium controller on order, and now I'm wondering if it carry enough amperage to run a fridge. The surge current from turning the fridge on and off all the time could be a killer.

For heat I am just going to use a hair dryer.

I also have a muffin fan from a computer I'll use to keep the air inside moving to assure an even temperature.
 
Ok guys, just so I understand. I can use this on a refrigerator on my deck all year. Living in Vermont it can be a little cold in the winter, soda and stuff freezes in this fridge, but daytime times can climb to kick the refer on. Would I be able to use one of these just to maintain temp inside the fridge?

This means I would be using it for heating and cooling.

Let the refer run normal and add a lamp or heater inside for heat.
 
I can't speak for this controller yet, but the omega controllers I use on environmental ovens at work constantly cycle (2 or 3 second intervals) between heat and cold while holding a temp. Of course we use liquid nitrogen for cooling, but I bet the theory is the same.
 
StormBird said:
I just picked up an old appartment fridge the other day for $25.

I just put the aquarium controller on order, and now I'm wondering if it carry enough amperage to run a fridge. The surge current from turning the fridge on and off all the time could be a killer.

For heat I am just going to use a hair dryer.

I also have a muffin fan from a computer I'll use to keep the air inside moving to assure an even temperature.
Click to expand...
Some hair dryers can pull a lot of amps, and aren't really meant for continuous use although if set on low you probably wont have a problem, I have melted a hairdryer using it for an extended time on high. I use a small electric heater set on low (750 watts) works great.
This time of year you can find those small heaters on sale pretty cheap, probably less than a hairdryer.
 
djsoto said:
Believe it or not i paid $18 free shipping from china back in Dec 20th. 3 weeks later, I was on my door.

FYI: store change to MIN 14 now... So I got lucky

Source
Click to expand...
They are up to min 20 now. I emailed them to see if I could just get 2 or 3.
I have plans for 5 temperature controllers:
Fish tank
Snake tank
Bathroom (wife likes her little "warm room")
Fermentation chamber (only one I need a duel stage for)
Keezer
 
Got mine all wired up and it works great. I used essentially the same setup as the OP. The hardest part was removing the jumper on the outlet.
 
Balto said:
Ok guys, just so I understand. I can use this on a refrigerator on my deck all year. Living in Vermont it can be a little cold in the winter, soda and stuff freezes in this fridge, but daytime times can climb to kick the refer on. Would I be able to use one of these just to maintain temp inside the fridge?

This means I would be using it for heating and cooling.

Let the refer run normal and add a lamp or heater inside for heat.
Click to expand...

correct. and yes, let the refer run normal ;)
 

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