Self leveling epoxy.

I was wondering if anyone had a good resource on tutorials for using self leveling epoxy. I'm sure it's rather simple but I've seen some really bad examples on other peoples projects. I want it to be a "one and done" project.

I'm using joined wood for the deck of my keezer build and want to avoid any chances of liquid getting between the cracks and causing swelling.

Hopefully there is a few good write ups on it. I tried searching youtube but surprisingly, nothing popped up.

Thanks

I have some experience in this... Use appropriate gloves, clothes, eye protection, etc.
Do this in a clean work area. The epoxy stays open a long time (24 hrs or more in most cases) so any dirt or dust that gets blown around is going to stick in it.
Get your table top, lid or whatever you're your project is perfectly level and suspended so that the edges are not touching anything, and sitting over some sacrificial drop cloths.
Mix the exact ratio by measuring "A" in one disposable measuring cup, "B" in a second one, and then pour both together into a third.
Stir well, but slowly to avoid air bubbles. Scrape the sides and bottom many times when stirring.
Pour into a fourth pot, and stir some more.
Slowly pour mixed epoxy onto the project starting in the middle working the puddle outward towards the edges, but always pouring into the established puddle.
Use a bondo spreader to move the puddle around if needed (use a light touch). the puddle should be running off the edge now... make sure the edges are all wetted out.
Once the epoxy is spread evenly, use a propane torch to pop any bubbles with a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Make sure all the bubbles get popped.
Cure at the appropriate temp.
Once it's fully cured, you can sand off the drippy edges.
The epoxy can be sanded and polished if you have the right equipment.
Good luck!

Thank you for the detailed information. That post helped a lot. My only question is the "Don't be touching anything"

I was planning on using it for the lid of the keezer. I was going to put the wood down and have an 1/8th lip from the wood to the top of the border a, creating a "sandbox" like structure. Just instead of sand, it's wood panel
Should I epoxy it first, then put the outer edges on the board?

Drake, I am also in the process of making an epoxy counter-top for the bar I am installing in my basement. I will be making a wood mold, then placing wine corks in the mold then pouring the epoxy over the top of it.

Let me know how yours goes.

vike4life said:

... I will be making a wood mold, then placing wine corks in the mold then pouring the epoxy over the top of it...

Click to expand...

the corks will float - you may want to do a thin coat and place the corks while wet, then cover with another coat after the first coat dries and holds the corks down.

Yeah, if you've formed a lip to hold the epoxy in, then just work up to it.
Get it perfectly level though... it will run over the edge if not, or at least it would be thicker on one edge.

I've used EnviroTex Lite for several projects and love the stuff...

http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/

Hang Glider,

I left out that i was going to be using wood glue to glue down the corks. Do you think wood glue will work? or should I go with something else?

Or just hot glue the cork down, and pour over them.

yep - just as long as they're held down so they don't work their way up to the surface.

pictures as you build? or when done?
we wanna see this!

Yes ..yes you must show us pictures

Hang Glider,

Yeah I will post pictures. This project also involves converting a mini fridge to kegerator with a single tap tower. The tap tower will be mounted to the wine cork counter top.

Thanks for all your help.

I make/sell wooden beer tankards like you see at the Renaissance faires and use a lot of 2 part epoxy. The advice about using the torch is spot on. The directions will probably say to use a heat gun but if you do you will end up with the surface covered with dust motes.

You can find the epoxy at both Lowes and HD in the paint departments. Just ask for 'pour on' epoxy.

I prefer to use epoxy that has built in UV protection because any of the pour on epoxies that are exposed to UVs from the sun or florescent lights will eventually turn cloudy.

If you search for EX-74 epoxy you can find the one I use.

If possible turn off the heater/AC when applying it to help keep particles from being blown onto the surface. Be sure that you are applying the epoxy at the proper temperature. If you apply it and let cure below the recommended minimum temp. it will never cure properly and will remain tacky.

If you end up with dust motes or other small imperfections you can use a fine grit sandpaper, like 2000 grit, to remove them then apply a coat of paste wax over the finish. Just know that it will be very, very slippery if you do that.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-man-cave-adult-beverage-dispenser-282464/

Pages 3 and 5 have the lid I made ---

Best of luck!

ButchV12

Hey guys, I mostly finished my bar. I converted a Sanyo Mini-Fridge into a kegerator. And then poured the two part epoxy on top of rougly 680 wine corks. I have a few more minor things to do, but I think it turned out pretty good.

Here are a couple more. I had to do 4 pours of the epoxy resin. Due to the depth of the wine corks. I used a seal coat to help reduce the amount of bubbles. With each pour I got more used to working with the epoxy the last two pours went well.

WOW! Really nice work!

Thanks!

Just a warning from doing several of these tables. The first one i did was a 2266 beer cap bar. Caps float if they are not held down, so pour a small amount/let it set. This keeps the caps from floating, then pour your top coat. Also using a long metal straight edge can help move the epoxy to all the nooks and will level out.

Another table i did was a coffee table. Long story short, someone cleaned it "really good" using a sponge with the green scrubber pad. This leaves micro abrasions making it look cloudy. I notice the easy way to fix this when i spilled water on it and it returned to looking like glass! So if it gets cloudy, simply clean the service and apply a small amount of resin as a top coat!

Just my two cents.

A new product that I just started using is called countertop epoxy, I think the website is www.countertopepoxy.com so far I am very impressed with the abilities of this product, you can use clear or if you want a granite look, you can use paint mixed in. sounds like it might fit the bill for what you are trying to do.

Holgar,

I had a small spot where i got micro abrasions. I noticed that when it is wet you can't see them. So I intend on putting a light layer on top to fix it. The problem is mixing such a small amount of resin.