Thanks for the feedback. Last time I used 1272 when I tried this recipe because I was still relatively new to the hobby (still am, but have 15 batches under my belt). But, was disappointed with the amount of chill haze the beer developed...
I scale it down to 3 gallons BIAB, and sadly am only hitting 63% efficiency (but hitting it regularly +/- 3%) so I still need to up the grain bill a little more. That being said I tired a "hop stand" with this recipe as well. I didnt change any of the additions, but chilled to 185 then let it sit for 45 minutes during which it dropped to 143 on its own. Then proceeded to chill it down to high 70s. It got to a point of diminishing returns where it was 3 minutes of running water through IC to get it to lower 1-2 degrees. I had a TON of huge fluffy, clouds in the sky looking, cold break that wouldnt settle to the bottom. I suppose I couldve tried a pseudo-whirlpool with my stirring spoon and let it sit, but I just transferred anyway. It started at 176 and I thought it would lower on its own before fermentation really took off. Nope later that night the airlock was bubbling away, 1"+ of krausen, and temp was a steady 72. Sunday afternoon (roughly 24 hours later) down to 70. Monday morning 68, Monday afternoon 64-66 with minimal airlock activity. I am going to let it sit for 2 more weeks (2.5 weeks total) before I transfer to secondary and dryhop for 7 more days.
I will try wet towels in the future with this yeast. Other yeasts I have used I havent had to worry about high 60s and low 70s, but I've read about S-04 being a finicky yeast.
On a recommendation from my LHBS employee, I used 1/2 Whirlfloc tab at 5 minutes, a pinch of irish moss at 15min, AND WL's Clarity-Ferm just before pitching yeast. Seems like an awful lot of extra chemicals in my beer... just to avoid chill haze again. My other beers using the same methods have come out clear I dont know why this one was so incredibly hazy before, still tasted awesome though. I have used whirlfloc and irish moss in small amounts of both before and been fine, we will see what Clairty-Ferm does.
I dont quite understand the hopstands fully. Would I have needed to actually add hops to gain anything? Or just letting the hops sit between 185 and 140 give me any benefit?
Also I see the batch size is 6 gallons. I am correct in assuming 6 FINAL gallons? Not 6 gallons boil, or 6 gallons minus .5 gallons for hop and equipment loss? I just want to be sure because the first time I thought there needed to be more hops to get the flavors you guys were describing. The beer was good, but not outstanding. Maybe it was just a utilization problem on my part as I also missed the whole FWH thing the first time and did a 60min addition, I suppose that would effect things as well.
sorry for the huge post. Still learning and trying to "dial-in" a beer that I can/and want to repeat regularly.