spenghali said:has anyone experimented with buying a longer SS braid and spiraling it on the floor of the cooler?
spenghali said:Another question, does anyone know the inner (ID) and outer diameter (OD) of the o-ring they used? What about the washers? I guess the washers don't really matter as much as the o-ring size.
SauceBoss said:questions, I didnt really dry everything up on the inside after it leaked the first time...do you think it would be a good idea to disassemble and clean or should it be good as long as I sanitize well?
SauceBoss said:questions, I didnt really dry everything up on the inside after it leaked the first time...do you think it would be a good idea to disassemble and clean or should it be good as long as I sanitize well?
n8dagr8 said:I would give everything a good cleaning just to get the "leftovers" from manufacturing off (metal filings, oila, etc). Since you are still before the boil when you use this you don't have to worry too much about sanitation. Doesn't hurt to keep things clean, though.
Ok, this is really bugging me.. I've for all the parts from the first post- exact part # etc. The 5/8 washers will not fit over the center (non threaded portion) of A-786 Brass Pipe Nipple. What is going on here?
Ok, this is really bugging me.. I've for all the parts from the first post- exact part # etc. The 5/8 washers will not fit over the center (non threaded portion) of A-786 Brass Pipe Nipple. What is going on here?
brainfrz said:Stopped at Ace by my work during lunch. They've got regular 5/8 steel fender washers (not stainless). Any reason to not use these on the outside of the mash tun?
Tkelly32 said:So as I was holding the nut on the inside of the cooler and removing the spigot, the rubber seal came out. As I put it back in, i noticed that on the top I was able to push it in. Consequently as I completed all other steps, the seal was very loose and I could not turn on and off the ball valve without moving the entire bottom addition. I have been contemplating doing this for some months and always thought the first step might be difficult. Has anyone else had this problem? As I looked at the removed nut from the cooler, I noticed a piece of what appears to be sealant attached to the nut in the exact spot that I can push the rubber piece in, so that is what I attribute being the reason the seal is not tight. I just bought some heat resistant silicone sealant and am now waiting for the rubber to settle before attempting to attach ball-valve etc. However I am perturbed by this turn of events and as I anticipated this may be a problem I am hopeful someone has encountered this before and has some advice? As well, I think instead of saying to 'remove' the spigot out in the directions it would be more accurate to say the 'remove the spigot by slowly unscrewing it', because it does screw out. Thanks in advance.:rockin:
eyedoctodd said:Hello all,
Brewed my first AG last weekend with the the 10-gal Rubbermaid and the 3/8 fittings mentioned at the start of the thread. Everything went fine with the 5/16 vinyl hose into the kettle.
My question (and pardon if this has been answered, I did search and found no solid answer) is if anyone has got the same 10-gallon cooler working with 1/2" fittings. I am soon upgrading to a Top Tier and wanting to go with the SS camlocks with 1/2" NPT all around (other than the females with hose barbs on the hoses) and wanted to make every connection possible the same 1/2" size.
I can't imagine the OD of a 1/2" diameter pipe nipple is too great to go through the standard hole on the cooler, though it raises questions about what to do with the "existing white gasket" that we save, or if that needs to be replaced with something larger.
Does anyone here have it piped with 1/2" and have an alternate parts list? Or can anyone provide a forum link if this has already been asked?
Thanks in advance!!!
eyedoctodd said:Thanks n8dagr8 for your response.
In trying to figure out something for the inner gasket
First off welcome to the forum
Second, what exactly is your problem? Just that the valve feels loose? I noticed that my factory gasket is larger on one side that the other. The smaller side will fit into the thru-hole, the larger side will sandwich up against the cooler wall. So I positioned the gasket so the larger side is facing the cooler wall and this worked well for me. However the valve still has a loose feel to it, though it doesn't leak a drop.
Tkelly32 said:Cheers for the welcome brethren. :rockin:
The problem is that the rubber piece to the cooler keeps slipping out and it came out as I took the spigot out. I put water in it, and it leaked and also came apart when I attempted to open/close the ball valve. I may have had the rubber piece backwards (probably a little too eager to get mashing) however and am now waiting for the silicone seal to dry before I test it again. I can tell that it may have a loose feel like you are saying but still stay in place and not leak, thats all I am trying to achieve here but as it is it was falling apart and leaking like a sieve. I will keep you posted and let you know.
It almost sounds like you don't have a washer on the inside of the cooler.
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