Frigidaire 4.4 cu Kegerator Build

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Hey All, I'm new to the site and to the home kegerator thing.

I've read the threads that people posted about this unit over the last couple years and it looks pretty easy even for a guy that doesn't do much DIY. Just wanted to ask a few questions before I do this build...

1) Will this unit fit two commercial sixtels and a 5# CO2 tank?

2) I've read some about the placement of tap handles on the door being important due to the tight fit of kegs inside (and clearance for the shanks). Can anyone provide dimensions/measurements for the placement of the drill holes on the door?

3) Excluding the CO2 Tank and kegs, is there anything else I will need to buy besides the following two links?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_326299-4722...rigidaire+4.4+cu.+ft&productId=3256590&rpp=32

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/kits/ekk2.shtml

Cheers!:mug:
 
I've got the best buy version of this fridge. I googled and found that the dimension of a sixtel is 9.25" which is a bit wider than even pin lock kegs (I believe they are 8.75"). I can juuuuust barely fit two pin lock kegs in mine with the door flattened to get the most space inside.

I would say no, you can't fit two sixtels in there.
 
Hey, I may be two months late with this post...but for the next round of kegerator makers:

I have the same minifridge I'm getting ready to convert. It'll fit two true (Pepsi) ball valve kegs nicely (don't have to tear too much foam off the door), two pin (CocaCola) kegs barely (as mentioned above with the door cleared out). I don't think it'll fit the sixtels...BUUUUTTTT, I've seen a couple of videos where guys cut off the plastic in the walls and tear out some foam insulation to fit them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnKJ8cHcuKg

With the Frigidaire mini-fridges, though, I think that the walls all have little coolant pockets in them. I would double (and triple) check this with the manufacturer or someone who has done it before you got cutting it apart.

Some unsolicited advice (from a guy who hasn't even done one of these projects to completion yet, I might add):

I think I will have my CO2 tank on the outside of the keg...I've read that by putting it inside, the cool air contracts the gas and you end up using more gas for the same amount of pressure and have to refill more often (PV=nRT; decrease temp, decrease pressure). So I would definitely think about making that change. You'll probably see the pressure on your tank drop when you put in the fridge after you've filled it.

See here: http://******************.com/7-mistakes-when-buying-or-building-your-own-kegerator/

This link also suggests stainless steel components (I saw on your conversion kit, they are chrome plated brass). Stainless'll just last longer, will take better to sanitation, and won't give any off-taste in your brews (not that I'm sure it would...but that's what I've seen by reading up on kegerators; color me skeptical).

Last thing that I'd also mention from the link is don't clean your beer lines out with hot water. The higher temperature can alter the tubing and it can produce over foamy beer (in that same link above). Good thing tubing is cheap.

I'm probably running into some of the same problems as you right now...here's my build (just started the posting today, kegs and components on order): https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/need-suggestions-frigidaire-2-keg-kegerator-diy-build-370120/

I will be updating is as I go along and hopefully get some good suggestions there as well!

Best, WjR
 
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