Mrbrownfolks said:My order got screwed up. I paid for but didn't get a dip tube, hinge or silicon tubing. I can deal with shipping being later than quoted but I'm incensed at the fact that I didn't get what I paid for. I tried emailing yesterday to check on my delivery but haven't hear anything from email or pm.
My order got screwed up. I paid for but didn't get a dip tube, hinge or silicon tubing. I can deal with shipping being later than quoted but I'm incensed at the fact that I didn't get what I paid for. I tried emailing yesterday to check on my delivery but haven't hear anything from email or pm.
Not to worry my friend. From my experience you will be taken care of. I have seen and experienced great customer service from jaybird. I do know they opened a new shop, so they may be busy. They will make it right.
So can I ask questions on this thread about my falsebottom?
Save your clams and buy a pump. I've got a jaybird FB and after a couple of minutes of vorlaufing with the pump it's completely clear. I don't think it's necessary to have clear wort to the BK, and I'm not really sold that vorlaufing is necessary at all, though, but that's a topic for a different place.
jbaysurfer said:A pump is my next major purchase actually. Do you open the valve all the way and then just recirc back into the tun?
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As you know I try and get the diptubes to set about 1/2" above the bottom of the kettle so it cant get mashed down and stop the flow. But I am working with the measurements you guys give me.... I do know its a pain to get the second measurement accurate and there are other factors involved. If the hole is drilled in a spot that the ball valve is not sitting straight etc etc etc. I would be willing to bet your diptube is getting stuck on the bottom of the kettle. If you have a way to cut the bottom of the diptube off about another 1/4" or even at an angle your problems will probably go away. If you dont have a way to do that let me know I can shoot you out another one cut a bit closer to what you need. Ill just need to get a measurement off that one you have. PM me if need anything or you cant get this one going ...I got my FB a few weeks ago and have done 2 batches with it so far. I have been having a lot of problems with a stuck mash. I'm using a 15" hinged and the diptube sits about 1/4" off the bottom of my keg. My first batch had a few problems and I had to blow back through the tube connected to my pump to unstick the mash. For my second batch I made sure all the connections were perfect and fit super tight. But like an idiot, brewed a dunkleweisen for an upcoming competition, it got totally stuck and even by blowing back into the mash could not get it to flow. I had to dump my mash into my old cooler mash tun to finish it out.
What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?
Jaybird said:As you know I try and get the diptubes to set about 1/2" above the bottom of the kettle so it cant get mashed down and stop the flow. But I am working with the measurements you guys give me.... I do know its a pain to get the second measurement accurate and there are other factors involved. If the hole is drilled in a spot that the ball valve is not sitting straight etc etc etc. I would be willing to bet your diptube is getting stuck on the bottom of the kettle. If you have a way to cut the bottom of the diptube off about another 1/4" or even at an angle your problems will probably go away. If you dont have a way to do that let me know I can shoot you out another one cut a bit closer to what you need. Ill just need to get a measurement off that one you have. PM me if need anything or you cant get this one going ...
Cheers
Jay
So can I ask questions on this thread about my falsebottom?
I met Jaybird in person like 2 months ago on the day he happened to be moving his shop. Unfortunately he had already packed and moved the parts I was looking for (stainless fittings) so he told me to let him know when I ordered online and he'd cut me a break on shipping. As promised he did just that. I also orderd a FB at that time, and worked with another guy (I forgot his name, but he was awesome!) when placing that order. I now have the FB, and have done 3 brews with it.
My question also has to do with Vorlaufing. I'm having a hell of a time, if not an impossible time trying to get the wort to run clear. I have to drain nearly the whole batch (batch sparging in a 10g cooler) to get what seems like a half/assed bed set.
My first batch I was making a pliney clone and it called for mash hopping, so I figured it might have been the leafhops I used. But my next mash was the same problem, and it was a 1.105 dark belgian. It's hard to expect that one to get clear so I vorlaufed half the mash before carefully re-adding it and draining, and didn't worry about it. TBH, I have no idea how that beer will turn out since it's still fermenting. It smelled great in fermentation though...I used the belgian blend from WL.
My most recent batch was a pale, and I had the same issue with vorlauf/bedsetting.
I get my grain pre-milled from morebeer, so I'm assuming that it's not the crush. Any help?? Do I need to use rice hulls (or whatever it is I read about from time to time..sorry I'm new to AG) or do something different? Everything I keep hearing tells me that 1 or 2 quarts should have my wort running very clear, but that's just not what's happening. I'm either getting somewhat clear-ER wort after a couple gallons, or just settling for cloudy wort, but it's not what I think I should be getting.
Thanks, and sorry to crash the thread..but it is indeed a testimonial, and I love the false bottom, perfect fit, and service was outstanding!
I got my FB a few weeks ago and have done 2 batches with it so far. I have been having a lot of problems with a stuck mash. I'm using a 15" hinged and the diptube sits about 1/4" off the bottom of my keg. My first batch had a few problems and I had to blow back through the tube connected to my pump to unstick the mash. For my second batch I made sure all the connections were perfect and fit super tight. But like an idiot, brewed a dunkleweisen for an upcoming competition, it got totally stuck and even by blowing back into the mash could not get it to flow. I had to dump my mash into my old cooler mash tun to finish it out.
What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?
No need to be sorry man, not at all! let me ponder this for a bit. I am on my way to the brew club meeting and I will hit the rest of this thread later tonight....
Cheers
Jay
Right on Jay. Thanks, and thanks for recommending the brewpub DT that had racer X on draft!!!
Ohhh Yeah I love that place! Always great beers and the service IMHO is second to none.
Okay I have thoughts about your issue a bit and I have a few questions that I will post here so we can all be part of the learning process.
1. What is your average water/grain ratio?
I have found the looser the wort the faster it clears.
2. How fast are you draining your first running?
Seems that some people are afraid to really let it rip. On my system I run wide open (1/2" full port stainless ball valve from Nor*Cal Brewing Solutions for $12.99 ) for about 2-3 min recirculating the entire time.
3 What temp is your mash when you start draining?
doing a mash out and raising the temp will help. My system is automated so I can recirculate for as long as I want with a push of a button. That said I don't do a mash out myself but raising the bed temp to 165-170 will help.
4. Are you doing a iodine test for full conversion?
a lot of what can make our wort cloudy is the lack of conversion. Having the proper amount of enzymes to do a full conversion and the proper time is essential.
Cheers
Jay
Ok,
I had to pull the numbers off Beersmith and do the math by hand, I couldn't find a grain to water ratio box in the software, but seems like it should be there.
Click on Mash Details > Double Click on Whatever you named your mash ("Mash In" I believe is the default)
You should see what Beersmith assigned your water/grain ratios.
I did another brew yesterday. Vorlaufing worked. The only thing that I KNOW I did different was that I
A) Per Jay's instrux opened the valve all the way when starting draining.
B) I cracked the lid to my cooler open to equalize the air pressure between the room and the Mash tun.
These two things together allowed the mash to flow much faster at the outset, and the grainbed to settle into a nice filter. About 2 quarts of vorlauf and the wort was much clearer then either of my other two brews.
Subtle things make big differences I guess. Thanks for the tips everyone!
This is such a massive post that even using "search this thread" yields multiple pages of results. Direct me to the right spot if this has been answered already..
How effective is a FB/hop blocker combo (center dip tube) with the following setup: keggle -> pump -> CFC -> fermenter. Assuming 12 oz pellets (no leaf or whirlpool) and no cold break (no IC) how much pellet residue would get through the FB/HB combo? I don't have plate chiller concerns, but still want to keep as much pellet residue out my fermenter as possible. Has anyone compared this to either hop stopper or Derrin's trub filter? Thanks.
How's the new product looking? Any eta on when you will start selling it?
I just received one of Jaybird's hop blockers for my brew kettle. It looks great, it fits great, and I can't wait to brew with it. I use mostly whole hops so it should work well. Thanks for the quick and painless service!
I wish I could post more pictures here because I think you would get the drift of what a 15" false bottom can stop. I use an IC and was testing a new product. The 15" stopped about 80% of all the hops... I didn't weigh them but from what I took out of the kettle and what little was trapped in my new product I can easily say 80% and probably more like 85%. all the hops that came out of the kettle came out in the first runnings from the boil kettle, so they got there during the boil and not after the drain started.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Jay
big_al_in_k-zoo said:Just wanted to say "thanks" for the great product! The 15" False bottom is amazing.
I previously used a 12" domed false bottom with less than good results. Very hard to re-circulate (if at all) almost always got a stuck mash/sparge. No matter what I did to fix this worked. i.e. higher water/grain ratio, larger gap on mill, rice hulls, etc.
After two uses, I wish I would have bought this way sooner. Used it today to make a 5 gallon wheat beer. 60% wheat and NO RICE HULLS and this bad boy worked like a champ.
Here's a video of me using today:
http://youtu.be/d7Jvul59Hs4
If you are on the fence about buying this, do yourself a favor and purchase it. It's definitely worth the money and I'm glad I don't have the hassle with a 1-2 hour delay trying to fix my stuck mash/sparge!
Just wanted to say "thanks" for the great product! The 15" False bottom is amazing.
I previously used a 12" domed false bottom with less than good results. Very hard to re-circulate (if at all) almost always got a stuck mash/sparge. No matter what I did to fix this worked. i.e. higher water/grain ratio, larger gap on mill, rice hulls, etc.
After two uses, I wish I would have bought this way sooner. Used it today to make a 5 gallon wheat beer. 60% wheat and NO RICE HULLS and this bad boy worked like a champ.
Here's a video of me using today:
http://youtu.be/d7Jvul59Hs4
If you are on the fence about buying this, do yourself a favor and purchase it. It's definitely worth the money and I'm glad I don't have the hassle with a 1-2 hour delay trying to fix my stuck mash/sparge!
Jaybird,
I am going to be using a 15 gallon ss kettle and am looking to buy one of your false bottoms. My only dillema is that I am not sure if I want to use a dip tube or a bazooka filter underneath the false bottom. what would you reccomend
just the 15" hinged and a diptube is all you need if you have the ball valve and everything else. No need for a bazooka tube at all,not in a mash tun.It is for the mash tun
So we are going to be doing a keggle conversion shortly for a mash tun. Would the hinged 15" hinged be best? If is is what else would be a good addition, if not what's the best size?
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