Wiring a chest freezer with a STC 1000 with a constant and fan

I will be getting a Frigidaire chest freezer soon and will be turning it into a keezer/storage beer area and need a little help with what I am looking to do.

Here is the wiring diagram of the freezer
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/StCloud/297010501.pdf

so I am thinking I can leave the plug as is and tap the STC1000 into the cold control (C3 / 4R) for the cold and into some constant to control the hot going out to a receptacle that I can plug something in, Probably won't do this as I don't see a point in heat.

I also wan to have a DC computer fan go on with the cooling cycle so again, I could go out to a receptacle and plug in a fan that is on a cell phone charger or something.

Then I would like a constant receptacle for random things that need that.

I know my way around electricity but am having a hard time envisioning this one.

Is there anyone that has done this and can give advice or point me to some diagrams?

Split the cooling outlet with an adapter. You may want heat one day. Use the outlet the stc1000 uses for a constant.

grathan said:

Hook the fan to a separate wall wort? I am assuming your plugging the stc into a constant outlet. Why would the fan need to run off the fridge?

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I want to hard wire it so the freezer runs as it would before so for example

you open with the freezer while it is not cooling and the light still turns on or all the other features like defrost still work as intended it is just I am overriding the cooling sensor with the STC1000 sensor.

While I am at it, I can setup a constant power outlet inside to run anything.

I thinking going with a variable speed AC computer fan would be better. Anyone know of a good place for those?

Ah. So there is s light. Maybe cut into the power line for the compressor and use that to power the stc. Follow the lead cord for a good constant feed.

Or put a light above the freezer. Why would you defrost?

I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly what you're saying in your original post, particularly as regards the hot circuit.

Here's what you can do for the fan though.

You can get an AC fan for pretty cheap, and then you don't have the extra step of socket->power adapter->fan. I threw one of these in my ferm chamber:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YTSB7/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can wire it directly to the cold control terminals on the thermostat, parallel to the compressor. Make sure to ground the chassis of the fan to the fridge with mounting screws to eliminate the chance of an unpleasant shock.

That being said, you probably want the fan to shut off when you open the lid, no? If that is the case, I would get a normally-closed relay or some solid-state switching device, wire the relay coil to the lid switch, and run the load side of the relay in parallel to the compressor on the thermostat switch. That way, the fan will only run if the lid is shut and the temperature is above the set point.

Odds are the defrost will not run as you will not cool enough to develop frost. If you search the site you will find several wiring diagrams to suit your needs. I have mine wired so the fans run AFTER the cooling cycle wired off the heat side of the STC-1000 wired to an outlet running two 12volt dc computer fans.

beaksnbeer said:

Odds are the defrost will not run as you will not cool enough to develop frost. If you search the site you will find several wiring diagrams to suit your needs. I have mine wired so the fans run AFTER the cooling cycle wired off the heat side of the STC-1000 wired to an outlet running two 12volt dc computer fans.

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that's an interesting idea, so you have your cooling set to say on at 45, off at 35 or whatever and then you have the heat on at 35, off at 40 or something?

Basically yes the controller will cut out at your set temp My fan comes on just after and the temp will drop 3-5* (air temp) more. I maintain a 5 degree swing on the control which works out to 1-3* liquid temp if you put your probe in water. I set a temp probe inside a keg (I have a pic somewhere will post later) and in no fluctuations in the 3 gallon keg with a separate temperature readout. I monitored my temps inside and in the coffin and found that this works great the fan circulates cool air in and out and doesn't run all the time.

So I got some supplies yesterday to start the build sometime soon. I don't even have the freezer yet btw.

But I got a metal 3 gang outlet box, it is a little over an inch thick and thought it would fit snug in a rectangle hole I would cut out in the 2x6 and then basically wire like this:

1 outlet for constant power
1 outlet for when cooling cycle is on
1 outlet for when heating cycle is on

I would have the wires coming out of the back of the collar into conduit that I got as well and down to the wiring of the freezer and then the wiring to the STC would be run to wherever I am putting that.

I got some 13/16th x 10 poplar for 2.69/ft at the lumber yard that should be nice for the front and sides. Also getting the 2x6 from houses being built in my neighborhood. That should help offset all the other stuff

I run a Ranco temp controller that essentially turns on/off a power cord - and the freezer is plugged into the power cord. I simply hooked up a computer fan to a plug from a broken cordless drill charger and have that plugged into the same power strip. So, when the freezer is running to cool down the fermenters, the fan also kicks on. When it's to the right temp, both shut off. I had the fan running all the time, but it's really not needed, it only needs to run when the temp needs to change.

Also, I take the temp probe and have it on the keg wall. I then take a blue ice-pack (you know the ones the school nurse had in grade school) and put that over the probe - squishing the probe between it and the carboy wall. I then take a few pieces of masking tape and get as much of the ice pack in contact with the carboy wall as possible - so that it assumes the thermal mass of the liquid inside. I figure this is as close as it gets to having the probe IN the beer itself.

Should I be bypassing the original relay on the freezer or just wire right before it so that it sends power to the relay when it needs to turn on and then it takes over like the stock unit at that point.

Wire the compressor/fan directly to the aftermarket controller, bypassing the original control circuitry.

I have the freezer wired up and came out pretty good. I have a few more things to button up but here are some pics.



before

That's a beautiful build. Wish I could have something like that.

Your outets are on the inside of the freezer, though! Have you seen this done elsewhere? It seems like a recipe for a short.

Is that a 20 cu. ft.?

marinosr said:

That's a beautiful build. Wish I could have something like that.

Your outets are on the inside of the freezer, though! Have you seen this done elsewhere? It seems like a recipe for a short.

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I've seen them on the inside

beaksnbeer said:

Is that a 20 cu. ft.?

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25 :rockin:

marinosr said:

....Your outets are on the inside of the freezer, though! ... It seems like a recipe for a short.

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I would agree that it may present a problem. Assuming that the power provided into that receptacle box is via a hole drilled through the collar, there will be the potential for condensation to build up in the box unless the hole in the collar is WELL sealed.

raouliii said:

I would agree that it may present a problem. Assuming that the power provided into that receptacle box is via a hole drilled through the collar, there will be the potential for condensation to build up in the box unless the hole in the collar is WELL sealed.

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Yep, I spray foamed it very well and I am also putting in one of the eva dry things too. In fact, might as well place it right by the receptacles I guess