I don't understand why people wouldn't use a bazooka screen for $5 more than the SS braided hose costs. You can get one from bargain fittings for $17, it is rigid, and it has a 1/2" male fitting that screws directly into a ball valve.
dulavjo said:simple. have you built this circle system? at the store looking at the components it does not look like it will fit together. I have been to 6 plumbing stores and there is no 1 inch braid, it comes in 3/4 inch. sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but I thought someone would be helpful if they built this exact lautering system
I don't understand why people wouldn't use a bazooka screen for $5 more than the SS braided hose costs. You can get one from bargain fittings for $17, it is rigid, and it has a 1/2" male fitting that screws directly into a ball valve.
I don't understand why people wouldn't use a bazooka screen for $5 more than the SS braided hose costs. You can get one from bargain fittings for $17, it is rigid, and it has a 1/2" male fitting that screws directly into a ball valve.
Home Hardware carries them, at $82 Canadian. If you live close to the border I suggest making a day trip to the States to get one for $40 US and you can pick up some good, cheap beer and some Hostess Fruit Pies while you're there, too.
You can thank me for the fruit pies later. Best food ever.
Hmmm...apparently they're $22
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...t&keyword=screen&category_id=0&product_id=171
Which is $16 more than i paid for the SS braid.
I think the other appeal of the braid is that you can pick it up locally and don't have to wait for the online order to show up. Although if I get another collapsed braid, I will be ordring one.
How much grain are we talking about to collapse the braid?
I have a 5 gallon Rubbermaid that I have yet to use. That size MT can realistically really only handle about 12 lbs of grain...will/can that weight collapse a SS braid?
Nick
I'm not sure how you guys are collapsing these braids... I've had this thing completely packed several times now, stirring it like a bad boy and the braid still looks perfect. Is it possible that you're smashing the braid with your mash paddle somehow?
I'm not sure how you guys are collapsing these braids... I've had this thing completely packed several times now, stirring it like a bad boy and the braid still looks perfect. Is it possible that you're smashing the braid with your mash paddle somehow?
I've made a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermade mash tun and have found that the 10 gallon doesn't hold heat nearly as well as the 5 gallon version. It's not a headspace issue either, I typically fill them to the top with water and grains. The 5 gallon cooler typically lost about 2 degrees during the 1 hour mash and I've noticed the 10 gallon loses a good 6 degrees during a one hour mash. Anyone else notice this?
steinsato said:I've made a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermade mash tun and have found that the 10 gallon doesn't hold heat nearly as well as the 5 gallon version. It's not a headspace issue either, I typically fill them to the top with water and grains. The 5 gallon cooler typically lost about 2 degrees during the 1 hour mash and I've noticed the 10 gallon loses a good 6 degrees during a one hour mash. Anyone else notice this?
mistercameron said:I did a test this past weekend and the 10 gal Rubbermaid lost about 5-6 degrees an hour over the period of a few hours with about 5 gallons of mash temp water. What I found most interesting is that the water near the top was much cooler than water at depth.
Next brew I think I'll do the blanket cover. I also need to look into expanding foam into the lid.
I think you will find that at least 4 of those degrees were lost in the first 10 minutes, with the other 2 drifting over the length of your test. When I do a mash in this thing after preheating it I barely lose a half degree over an hour. That is strange about the water being cooler at the top, since heat rises.
I want to build this setup, but with 1/2" fittings instead.
Anybody have a parts list for this? Particularly the O-Ring and fender washers I will need?
I think you will find that at least 4 of those degrees were lost in the first 10 minutes, with the other 2 drifting over the length of your test. When I do a mash in this thing after preheating it I barely lose a half degree over an hour. That is strange about the water being cooler at the top, since heat rises.
bovineblitz said:The thermal mass is all in the bottom where the grains collect, it's denser so holds temperature better.
Ok I'm new to all grain and I have like 3 1 gallon batches under my belt. What does this do exactly? I am going to read this entire thread but I have seen pics of these gatorade coolers and I'm lost.
Do you dump the grains into the cooler after you mash out and then do the sparge process by dumping the hot water into the cooler and let it steep in the MLT? Then transfer to your primary? Sorry big Newb here.
wmarkw said:Awesome makes sense now. I think I can do this. Then once the mash & sparge are done then you go ahead and do your normal boil, add hops, etc. Sounds like a mess free process. One of the instructions I have said to mix the mash every 10 mins or so. So I assume this step isnt necessary? Just keep the lid close, take an occasional temp? Then if the temp falls below where you want it then add some more hot water? I assume these coolers retain heat well for the 60-75 mins.
Thanks dudes!
^^ I can spin my setup freely, and it holds water tight. Used it 12 times so far without a drip. Why don't you want to use SS hose clamps?
weaksauce said:I am weary of the ss hose clamps after the OP had trouble with them rusting. I checked with my local boating store but none of their ss clamps are small enough for what I need. Have you had any luck with the ss clamps yourself?
weaksauce said:I am weary of the ss hose clamps after the OP had trouble with them rusting. I checked with my local boating store but none of their ss clamps are small enough for what I need. Have you had any luck with the ss clamps yourself?
I've done 3 batches in here and my temps are needing altering everytime, either with ice or more boiling water. I've reached and held temps after alterations to the initial water. I think it is the "Initial Mash Tun Temperature" setting in beersmith. What is everyone putting their temp at, default 72? I tried preheating and I tried without, had better results without because beersmith was calibrated to 72. What is the initial temp of a preheated cooler?
slightlyoffbeat said:What I do is I heat my water to about 5-8 degrees hotter than what i need, throw it in the MLT, and close the lid. I let the MLT heat up for a bit. Then I take the lid off and let it cool off to the temp i need (~165ish). Then I add grains. My MLT is based on the design from this thread. I can hold my temperature without dropping a single degree for an hour.
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