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All you guys and your key-switched control panels sure have me jealous!
I always knew Cookie Monster was the "key" to good times!
 
This wouldn't work for me as I use 2 1500 watt elements in my system which requires 2 separate electrical circuits in order to power the system.

Also, I don't know that you can control heating at 2 set points with that but since I have never used one I am sure I could be wrong.

Linc

Missing Link

Just because you are using two circuits doesn't mean you can't use one controller to control one or both of them. Earlier in this thread I show my panel which is set up for 2x 1500 Watt elements run on separate circuits. You control each circuit with its own relay, but both of those relays can be controlled with one DC output from your controller. You can even put an intermediate switch on each circuit so only one element is on at a time even if both relays are switched on by your controller.
 
Missing Link

Just because you are using two circuits doesn't mean you can't use one controller to control one or both of them. Earlier in this thread I show my panel which is set up for 2x 1500 Watt elements run on separate circuits. You control each circuit with its own relay, but both of those relays can be controlled with one DC output from your controller. You can even put an intermediate switch on each circuit so only one element is on at a time even if both relays are switched on by your controller.

That is exactly what I plan to do. I just didn't think the Love controller listed could take inputs for power from 2 circuits and them control 2 set points.

I am currently using 1 love control for the mash and manually watching the HLT. I will be moving to the BCS-460 in the near future and plan to do just what you said the 2 SSR's and 2 power sources controlled by one controller.

Linc
 
Well it's been over 3 months since I started this thread so I thought I should show how my own control panel work has been going so far.

I'm about 95% done. Still need to tidy up the wires inside and install some fuses and other small things, but for the most part my control is complete. I've tested it and it works great!


View from the top: (This panel will be mounted on the wall vertically at about eye height)

IMG_1475.jpg


The outlets are all locking type to avoid something getting yanked out by mistake:

IMG_1476.jpg


Monster heat sink:

IMG_1477.jpg


Inside (yet to be nicely cleaned up - I'm still in 'testing mode' so the wiring is messy. It'll all be tie-wrapped and locked down nicely once I'm 100% done):

IMG_1478.jpg


Kal
 
I also built some RTD probes based on the ones from Auberins as a starting point using locking connectors and some expandable sleeving for extra protection. There's also a braided stainless wire in there for strain relief.

IMG_1268.jpg


I've taken over 200-300 photos so far of my brewery build process. It'll all be documented step by step in my upcoming website: TheElectricBrewery.com (to be launched some time in 2009).

Kal
 
Here is mine. I have pictures of the drawing, the finished panel and wiring diagram. It was fab'ed on a Bridgeport milling machine. The little engraved plastic label thingies are on order.

Control Panel.gif


Control Panel Milling 2.jpg


Control Panel Picture.jpg


Black Dog Brewery Control Panel Wiring.gif
 
Sawdust guy:
Have you done any calculations on current draw? I don't know what elements you are using but all your stuff looks like it might be rated for only 15 Amps. That might be cutting it close. Also since it's all 115V, you may need a 30A service feeding this thing. Just my $.02.

Edit: Ooops looked at your profile and see that you might know what your doing!!! :mug:
 
I laughed when saw that at first too but it got me thinking: I have a couple of small kids (2 and 5) and was going to put a big 30A disconnect on the wall up reasonsably high above my power outlet for my brew setup to avoid them walking up and hitting any buttons ....

Then I thought why not put a key switch right in the control panel. They're cheap (bought one on ebay for under $10). I'm adding a 30A relay and now everything can be in the one box. No disconnect needed.

I can put hang the key up high to ensure nobody starts flicking switches and hurts themselves (or fries an element).

Plus, it looks cool. :)

XB2-BG21.jpg


Kal

Fantastic build Kal, I too have a set of keys on my system , so day I'll say. "Here son, take the keys to the beer machine " ....



DSCF0016.jpg
 
Sawdust guy:
Have you done any calculations on current draw? I don't know what elements you are using but all your stuff looks like it might be rated for only 15 Amps. That might be cutting it close. Also since it's all 115V, you may need a 30A service feeding this thing. Just my $.02.

Edit: Ooops looked at your profile and see that you might know what your doing!!! :mug:

I only have to power a 1500 watt element so maximum current draw should be only 12.5 Amps @ 120 VAC if the element were 100% efficient. I have a 20 amp circuit ready to go for the application. All other power requirements are relatively small. Thank you for your concearn though. I am not above making a mistake here or there.
 
Nice! That's something I have yet to do... What software did you draw this up with?

Kal

I use AutoCAD 2005 which I borrowed a copy from a previous employer for 99 years. I used to be a design engineer and built all my own audio equipment including my turntable. A good design and drawing makes fab much easier (see below).

Turntable_Top.jpg


Turntable_Front.jpg
 
Wow, I'm overwhelmed by all the amazing stuff, now mine, just as simple as can be:

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Its a simple setup, uses brewtroller to control it, w/ built in PID software etc. the dial is the ipod like controls, rotate left and right for changing entries/moving through the menus, and push down on it and you get enter, hold for a few seconds you get cancel. The switches are left for electric heating element in HLT, right for march pump. With them to the right, they let the brewtroller control them, center is forced off, and to the left they're manually on. I.e. I can do full automated, or manual or a combination of both.

Not much there. I want to add led's but I'm still so crappy at electronics, I don't know for sure how to wire them to go off on manual mode, automatic is visible on the screen...

EDIT: oh and you can see my horrible DIY skills around that lcd. I love the view of the green board behind it ;) My brother told me to put some electric tape over it and noone will notice, I've not yet done it ;)
 
I use AutoCAD 2005 which I borrowed a copy from a previous employer for 99 years. I used to be a design engineer and built all my own audio equipment including my turntable. A good design and drawing makes fab much easier (see below).

Turntable_Top.jpg


Turntable_Front.jpg

Beautiful! Simply amazing work. What's that platter weigh?

My side job is running a fairly popular home theater website and forum (CurtPalme.com Home Theater sales, calibration, service, and discussion forum) that is mostly dedicated to analog CRT projectors so I can appreciate analog...! My love of HT started way back when in 2-channel analog land with 5' high electrostatic speakers. The good old days!

Kal
 
Beautiful! Simply amazing work. What's that platter weigh?

My side job is running a fairly popular home theater website and forum (CurtPalme.com Home Theater sales, calibration, service, and discussion forum) that is mostly dedicated to analog CRT projectors so I can appreciate analog...! My love of HT started way back when in 2-channel analog land with 5' high electrostatic speakers. The good old days!

Kal

Thank you Kal. The platter weighs about 50 lbs. I am also in the middle of building a Schroeder Tone Arm clone. The arm is suspended from a Kevlar thread and kept in place by magnets. I also incorporated a simple micrometer for vertical tracking on the fly. Well, I guess I am way off topic and before I get anyone mad at me I will stop.

Schroeder.jpg
 
I get called Kai a lot on this forum for some reason... there must be someone named Kai around or here or something... ;)

No parts list in any manageable form yet. I'll be on my step-by-step website which will be up some time this year. Complete with prices, where to buy, and the steps on how to build.

Kal
 
I also built some RTD probes based on the ones from Auberins as a starting point using locking connectors and some expandable sleeving for extra protection. There's also a braided stainless wire in there for strain relief.

IMG_1268.jpg


I've taken over 200-300 photos so far of my brewery build process. It'll all be documented step by step in my upcoming website: TheElectricBrewery.com (to be launched some time in 2009).

Kal


WOW.... that really turned out nice, Kal! I am also going to use the probes from Auberins. Can you post a parts/source list for those phat XLR probe wires you made? I would really appreciate it. Thanks!


Mylo
 
I'll be posting everything on my website once it's up. I just building now and don't have everything organized yet.

Kal
 
Here are some pictures from my brewing skid control panel. These are screenshots of the actual touch screen panel. I'm in the final stages of programming, testing with the next phase being a full validation via a nice brown ale or pilsner.

A little on the HERMS brewing skid, the entire thing, from frame to tanks, to all connections and control valves is made from 304 or 316 stainless. It has a 15gal batch capacity. All connections, except for the water system are sanitary tri-clamp. The MLT, although not pictured will be fitted with a neoprene "glove" to better insulate it. The entire brewing process from start up to cleaning, with the exception of "mixing in the grains" and the hops addition is computer controlled. I'm using the computer, through a spark ignition system, to the two propane burners underneath the HLT and kettle.

overview.jpg

The main control panel for overall process control. Each of the tanks have their own screens in which more detail, controls and trends are displayed.

recipe.jpg

Here is the recipe parameter entry screen. I'm still working out all the parameters that will be necessary for a complete brewing process, but I have the major ones. These parameters are used to control the various steps throughout the process.

WMS.jpg

Here is what I call the Water Management System. This is a basic screen that controls water supply to the brewing skid.

HLT_Trends.jpg

Here is one of the trends screens, for the HLT. I'm currently only tracking two parameters here (temperature and level). I'm also going to add the inlet and outlet valves so that the full process can be tracked. Some of the other tanks have more parameter to track. My intention here is to get a complete picture of a brewing session so that it can be replicated in the future.
 
Here are some pictures of the skid itself.

TS1.jpg

Here is an older pic of the brewing skid and touchscreen panel.

TS2.jpg

Here is a better one of the touchscreen panel and part of the electrical panel below.
 
Wow! I'm speechless! Fantastic!

Any more pictures of inside the pots or closeups? I'm curious how you did your connections to the Blichmanns since I have the same 3 pots (looks like you went with three 20 gallon pots as well).

...the entire thing, from frame to tanks, to all connections and control valves is made from 304 or 316 stainless.
I'm surprised you didn't go for stainless head March pumps as well! ;)

Kal
 
Wow! I'm speechless! Fantastic!

Any more pictures of inside the pots or closeups? I'm curious how you did your connections to the Blichmanns since I have the same 3 pots (looks like you went with three 20 gallon pots as well).


I'm surprised you didn't go for stainless head March pumps as well! ;)

Kal

I'll post some newer pictures on a new thread once I get them uploaded to my web space.

Yes, the pumps...I forgot about those being poly-whatever they are. I bought those early on when there was a budget. ;) Come to think of it, the flowmeters are also made of the same poly-don'tknow material, so I guess my original 100% SS statement isn't 100% accurate. :)

The connections to the Blichmanns are...well, for the outlet valves I simply replaced the 3 piece valves with my solenoid valves. For the inlets, HERMS (in/out), and sparge arm I used SS compression fitting with hard piping on the inside and SS barb on the outside. I'll post some pictures for you.

LOL on the Windows comment. I couldn't agree with you more, I'm a Mac guy as well (assuming you are too) but there aren't too many options for touchscreen macs.
 
A couple questions, what is the programming language, and what is the equipment interface hardware?. Looks nice so far, I am curious how many I/O points it has taken to automate your system.
 
A couple questions, what is the programming language, and what is the equipment interface hardware?. Looks nice so far, I am curious how many I/O points it has taken to automate your system.
I'm not sure what language it is called as I'm not a trained programmer, but it's somewhat intuitive. I'm using samples from the manual and some trial and error to get the automation done. I'm using a USB DAQ device called LabJack and for the the automation I'm using DAQFactory. In terms of the number of I/O, the are currently 20 (10 valves, 3 pumps, 2 flowmeters, 2 spark ignition modules, three temp probes). I'm still debating the level transmitters or just using some float switches to prevent overflows.
 
I had looked at the labjack hardware but needed more I/O points and capabilities than that hardware could provide. The system I have under construction has 62 points, 44 for brewing system and 18 for fermentation system hardware. Software has been developed using netbeans and my sql with the design goal of complete brewing automation and fermentation temperature control for 6 fermenters. What make is the touch screen computer you are using?, have aquired an advantech PPC-153T touch screen to run the java application for the phase 2 system.
 
I had looked at the labjack hardware but needed more I/O points and capabilities than that hardware could provide. The system I have under construction has 62 points, 44 for brewing system and 18 for fermentation system hardware. Software has been developed using netbeans and my sql with the design goal of complete brewing automation and fermentation temperature control for 6 fermenters. What make is the touch screen computer you are using?, have aquired an advantech PPC-153T touch screen to run the java application for the phase 2 system.

Geez that's a lot of I/Os. My original design called for 25 but I cut it to 20 to accompdate that 20 in the labjack. Once I get it going, if the other five are needed I can always get another labjack and add more.

For some reason, that model number sounds familiar, the PPC 153. I'm pretty sure mine is an advantech as well but I'll have to look and see what I have. I've spent over three years planning, collecting parts and learning new skills, welding for example, to get this thing built. I think I've enjoyed all the learning and building as much as enjoy using it.
 
Here is the [to scale] front panel cover for my new brewing rig. It's a two tier RIMS design with the HLT on the second level, so I only need one pump.

I plan to print the cover on 11 x 17 photo paper, cut out the black boxes/circles with an exacto knife, and have it laminated.


control_panel.jpg
 
Hey Guys. I posted this on another thread, but I thought I'd post it here too. I came across a website for a company called Front Panel Express that has some software you can download for free and design your front panel. You can then send them the file and they'll make it for your and send it to you. I'm not sure on the pricing, but it looks like a great option for a lot of people. There seems to be quite a few options to choose from in the software. Just thought I'd share.

Front Panel Express

:mug:
 
My wife took the logo off my control panel and got a birthday present which just arrived today: A case of pint glasses with my brewery logo on them:

TheElectricBreweryPintGlass.jpg


Can't wait to take one for a test run! :)

Kal
 
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