Coffee with Mash..

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Kplum

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Has anyone ever tried it? I was putting coffee in with my secondary..

Now.. I am curious to see what it will do if I just put some coffee in with my mash... If you have done this or have heard of someone that did this.. I would love to know the results..
 
a mash is used to convert starches to fermentable sugars. I could be wrong but i dont believe coffee beans have sugars and you may end up leeching tannins. Most people steep them instead of mashing.
 
a mash is used to convert starches to fermentable sugars. I could be wrong but i dont believe coffee beans have sugars and you may end up leeching tannins. Most people steep them instead of mashing.
Also any coffee that makes it through would end up in the boil. It's best to cold brew the coffee (not boil) and add it to your secondary to reduce acidity.
 
Cold brewing also releases less oils from the coffee, which means better head and head retention in the beer.
 
Also any coffee that makes it through would end up in the boil. It's best to cold brew the coffee (not boil) and add it to your secondary to reduce acidity.

The acidity comes from the extraction temperature of the beans, not the boiling of the coffee. Boiling after adding the coffee isn't going to change the amount of acids there.

There's a local microbrewery here that makes a chipotle coffee stout where they put the beans (ground) straight into the mash. It's delicious and has great head retention. The coffee is more muted than the cold press coffee java stout that I made, but it's good. It's just different.
 
The acidity comes from the extraction temperature of the beans, not the boiling of the coffee. Boiling after adding the coffee isn't going to change the amount of acids there.

There's a local microbrewery here that makes a chipotle coffee stout where they put the beans (ground) straight into the mash. It's delicious and has great head retention. The coffee is more muted than the cold press coffee java stout that I made, but it's good. It's just different.

However the acidity could have a negative effect on the mash? Not sure if it would be noticeable, and obviously you could offset it by raising the pH back up but I was just throwing it out there. I haven't tried it myself, could be an interesting experiment. :mug:
 
Thanks for the input.. I am going to try the cold brewing before I put in secondary.. I was wondering if it would work.. I am have seen pumpkin put in the mash.. ended up as a great beer..

Kinda fun playing with the mash..
 
I was looking for information regarding the coffee in the mash also; did not really find it so I have gone ahead and created what may turn out to be delicious or disgusting.. .

10# Pale pilsner 2 row
10# American White wheat
1# Munich dark
2# quick oats oatmeal
2# rice hulls

11oz, (1can) Chock full o' nuts gourmet roast
8oz, (1 box) Hershey's Cocoa 100% Unsweetened

All above added to mash...


Boil around an hour,

Hops:
2oz Mosaic at 30min

Ferment at whatever temp my bedroom is; prolly around 58deg f
w/ wlp 300

I *might save a gallon and make a lager yeast starter, and pitch this around day two of primary fermentation just to clean up some residual sweetness from maltotriose.


I also do some other things that may be considered home-brew blasphemy:
The process:

Grind the grain very small, one day and add water at around 1.5 qt / pound of grain.

Put the whole lot on my stove with a mash jacket on; (it's in a large kettle with a spout on the bottom)

Burner on low and leave it alone for a day or two. It takes about 24 hours and the whole thing is up to around 160 deg F.

*low mash PH actually stops the absorption of most tannins- this is why you can decoct thick mash, boil it and add it back to the main mash w/ out making it nasty.

Doing it this way is 1. super easy and lazy and 2, the mash slowly heats up spending probably 3 or four hours at dough in temp, and protein rest temp.

from about 130 - 150 takes a long time (10+hours) so most of the starch conversion is completed in the lower temperature range which helps the Fg be down around .010 or lower; even in the bigger beers that start up around .085 or so.

Then I just sparge slowly around 170 and boil.
 
Sounds like a sour mash to me. Lots of time at the optimal range for lacto and other resident critters.
 
http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2014/08/blonde-ale-on-coffee-beans-recipe.html

Mad Fermentationist adds it into secondary to be able to gauge the flavour/ aroma given by the beans on a day by day basis (testing each day until the desired flavour is reached). In the recipe, he says that the alcohol is enough to draw out any coffee aroma wanted from the beans.

Interesting topic! I will probably give Mike's recipe a go early next year :)
 
Sounds like a sour mash to me. Lots of time at the optimal range for lacto and other resident critters.

What makes you say that? I add cocoa husks to my mash so I kind of figure it was like that and I've never ended up with a sour mash from that.


As for the coffee, I honestly would try it on a small batch just to see.
 
What makes you say that? I add cocoa husks to my mash so I kind of figure it was like that and I've never ended up with a sour mash from that.





As for the coffee, I honestly would try it on a small batch just to see.


I was responding to zidrel and his 24+ hr mash on low. It sounded like it stayed at lacto temps for hours. Not totally on topic. I think coffee beans in the mash could work, probably subtly, and I'd watch the ph.
 
Well, I got excited :)
so I decided to swing by a gourmet coffee roaster when I went into Brisbane.
They've got some quality beans, there was a fair few types of beans/roasts to choose from.
I bought a batch with the following taste notes "Butterscotch, juicy stone fruit, lemon and mandarin"
That should go nicely with some hops, so I think I will brew up exactly Mike's batch I linked above :)
 
I brew a coffee stout with whole beans that I crush and throw in with the mash. 8oz for a 5 gal batch. I've brewed the same basic recipe twice now and it's been my favorite out of the 20+ recipes I've done. (I almost never repeat a recipe but I've repeated this one that's how good it is!) Ps. Gave a bottle to a friend who doesn't homebrew and he told me it had the best head of any homebrew he'd ever had. If you want to try it, try it. That's what this is all about!
 
It's a PM. I'm not set up for all grain yet.
4lb light DME
2lb 2 row
2lb marris otter
.5lb chocolate malt
.5lb roasted malt
.5lb caramel 150L
.5lb chocolate wheat
.75 cane sugar
.5lb coffee grounds

1oz Galena @ 60
1oz Galena @ 20
1 pkg US-05
 
I think that's formulated for 70% efficiency but it's been almost a year since I brewed it and I've been tweaking my process for awhile so I honestly don't remember.
 
Oops. Didn' realize I cut off the gravity notes. Target OG is 1.063 and FG about 1.018. I think mine was a little lower though thanks to the cane sugar.
 
Zidrel here,

I saw this had a lot of replies, so i thought id update.

Adding things to the mash works pretty well!

So far I have tried:

2x cheese pumpkins, roasted in the oven with honey (I could not taste any of the honey & im not sure if the roasting did anything). Created a dry, light beer with out any real flavor of pumpkin at all. Added whole ginger slices to secondary & then added a MLF culture. This one sat for around a year prior to bottling. It is still changing, but everyone likes it.

3.5 - 4# Stale bread from the discount section. I used mostly rye and pumpernickel. I am pretty sure there were some jalapeño bagels in there to. Added about two hand fulls of spicy rye malt. Makes a subtle flavor, turned the beer an amber color. Everybody loved it & we drank 2 pony keg's at a buddy's wedding.


5# of rye flour, straight out of the flour bag... holy stuck sparge; this was a night mare to brew... I ended up applying direct heat to the mash tun to liquify the bottom & get some flow. This beer came out slightly 'smoky' and the smoke has intensified with aging. The beer started out very 'viscous' at low temp - but it has dried & thinned with age.

*Started dual pitched with Saflager W-34/70 German Lager Yeast & A different Hefeweizen yeast - Dry yeast is the bomb! & it's cheep! Makes great beer.

Mash hopping - Just dump a bunch of hops in the mash. I am not to technical, but it basically makes the beer taste 'hoppy' but it is not bitter and you do not really smell it. I use leftovers for this & the hop's my buddy grows and does not use. My wife likes dark german dunkelweizen & hates hops - but she likes this.



All of my recipes use about 10# of red wheat. Wheat has the highest diastolic power of 1.9 - so I am trying to add about .9# of unmodified / little enzymatic activity 'adjunct' per pound of wheat.

For dark beers 1# of Midnight Wheat, for head retention I either add 1-2# of quick oats or a bag of flaked wheat.

I decoct nearly everything (either on purpose or accident) and stir the heck out of my mashes. I start with 1.9 qt / pound of water and then add water until the mash looks like a soup.

Tannins:

To much water in the mash & to high a temp makes the tannins come out- but with a thick(er) mash you can boil the 'f out of it - it's not bitter.

I usually use a thin (watery) mash because of all the wheat - and I have not had tannin issues (perhaps becasue the wheat does not have as much of a shell as barley?)

Laziness has taken over & I frequently just cover up the boil kettle with a trash bag taped on w/ duct tape & let it sit over night (or the whole next day at work. -Have not noticed any difference in recipe cooled this way vs. wort chiller.

-Beer, all appears normal. I am becoming convinced that if you starch convert right and/or have a good sanitary post boil process you can make just about anything into beer.

In a name:

It's also about marketing - I never tell people what kind of beer it is. I let them taste & decide. It's crazy what some people 'love' and others 'hate' & how powerful a name is in beer. If someone 'expects' something - then a lot fall's short. But if they decide what classification it is; then they usually like it better.

As long as you don't burn the mash, or let it get infected & it's carbonated appropriate to whatever style it is.. It seems to work.
 
Wow, @Zidrel, all that flour in that mash...that's insane. Bet the beer is nice and hazy too, eh?

Dry yeast can be cheap. For the price of 34/70, with having to pitch 2 packs in most medium gravity beers, it's pretty much a wash. I'd rather buy a pack of liquid yeast and step a starter up if I need that much yeast.
 
I do starters with my dry yeast all the time, nearly every batch.
 
Sorry; that's @ beersk

The rye flour was interesting.

It gelled up and got stuck while recirculating; I ended up putting direct heat on the mash tun & 'smoked' the bottom of the mash. -Sparging was a PIA; but once it got up around 170 it flowed well.

The beer started out very viscous with a little bit of smoke and rye bite; but then it thinned out to pretty much any 'normal' beer and there is more 'smoke'.

The smoke thing was accidental; but it ended up tasting good; it's a like a smoked rye.

The flour was really just an experiment - trying to use un modified grain's / veggies in the proper amount to allow starch conversion from either 2 row or wheat.

The dry yeast- Im making 10-12 gallons at a time and usually pitch a single packet of yeast! I do wheat beers, with either german lager yeast or hefeweizen yeast. I let it stay in primary for at least a month; but I never have any issues - and fermentation always takes off like a rocket in a day or two.
 

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