kickflip_mj
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2008
- Messages
- 1,116
- Reaction score
- 120
Better make it a 90 minute mash just to make sure you get conversion
I always make it a 90, no sense in cutting it to 60 for time sake
Better make it a 90 minute mash just to make sure you get conversion
kickflip_mj said:Just for you matt, I will be mashing water for hours!
You aren't powering heavy amp users like heating elements so I would be surprised if you are tripping the breaker due to over draw. Perhaps its a bad breaker. But, just the same, time to go through things and see if you have a short circuit or a ground fault.
kickflip_mj said:Figured out that like an idiot I ran the second 24v to 110 instead of the other side of the relay. rookie move and now I am going to purchase 2 new relays.lol
Well, I won't say its purdy...but, drilling on a radius is tough going. Can't argue with $50 though. I think I'm getting channeling from just running through a return hose so I might be doing the same thing myself.
Haha it looks more turdy then purdy, drilling on a radius is tough even when things were marked. I'd recommend buying the damn thing from stout tanks. Drilling was WAY to much work. The thing is going to be hidden under my lid anyways.
I might try to fab up an adjustable one like they sell at Morebeer as I don't really want to spray my wort when I recirc the HERMS. I imagine a little solder and copper would make something that works exactly the same for a fraction of the cost.
What's wrong with exposing pre-boil wort to threads? The only benefit of homebrew triclover on wort-making equipment is that it's relatively easy to clean. The typical chinese fittings are far from being sanitary level finish, homebrew pumps aren't sanitary, silicone tubing isn't sanitary.
Blichmann uses a stainless steel float on the end of the silicone tubing for their sparge device. I think you can special order just the float through a LHBS that carries Blichmann gear. One of those silicone foam stoppers might work too.
You should avoid recirculating wort through a sparge arm, it's going to cause a lot of shear stress and aeration.
What's wrong with exposing pre-boil wort to threads? The only benefit of homebrew triclover on wort-making equipment is that it's relatively easy to clean. The typical chinese fittings are far from being sanitary level finish, homebrew pumps aren't sanitary, silicone tubing isn't sanitary.
Blichmann uses a stainless steel float on the end of the silicone tubing for their sparge device. I think you can special order just the float through a LHBS that carries Blichmann gear. One of those silicone foam stoppers might work too.
You should avoid recirculating wort through a sparge arm, it's going to cause a lot of shear stress and aeration.
What's wrong with exposing pre-boil wort to threads? The only benefit of homebrew triclover on wort-making equipment is that it's relatively easy to clean. The typical chinese fittings are far from being sanitary level finish, homebrew pumps aren't sanitary, silicone tubing isn't sanitary.
Blichmann uses a stainless steel float on the end of the silicone tubing for their sparge device. I think you can special order just the float through a LHBS that carries Blichmann gear. One of those silicone foam stoppers might work too.
You should avoid recirculating wort through a sparge arm, it's going to cause a lot of shear stress and aeration.
...My suggestion is based on professional brewing literature. I don't know about a lot of empirical evidence, maybe there's some anecdotal evidence from homebrewers who may or may not know what they are talking about but still like to claim HSA is a "myth". In any case it's not a bad idea to avoid it if you can...
orangehero said:What's wrong with exposing pre-boil wort to threads? The only benefit of homebrew triclover on wort-making equipment is that it's relatively easy to clean. The typical chinese fittings are far from being sanitary level finish, homebrew pumps aren't sanitary, silicone tubing isn't sanitary. Blichmann uses a stainless steel float on the end of the silicone tubing for their sparge device. I think you can special order just the float through a LHBS that carries Blichmann gear. One of those silicone foam stoppers might work too. You should avoid recirculating wort through a sparge arm, it's going to cause a lot of shear stress and aeration.
mattd2 said:Sorry to derail your thread somewhat MJ but... Why are the asian TC not sanitary? I can understand the NPT adaptor ones but are you saying pretty much all of them arn't?
From the equipment I have, it's a matter of the sanitary welds not being finished well enough. The back flushed tig weld provides a non porous surface but to get sanitary it needs to be polished smooth and the inexpensive Chinese stainless is being okd to ship when there is still more work to be done. I could further polish the welds to get to a sanitary finish but it just isn't worth the labor.
It was my understanding that there was no internal polishing done after welding sanitary tube - as long at there is not excessive reinforcement on the internal side of the weld you are good.
Sorry to derail your thread somewhat MJ but...
Why are the asian TC not sanitary? I can understand the NPT adaptor ones but are you saying pretty much all of them arn't?
Fittings, etc. need to be polished per the standard. Field weld pipes do not need to be polished but require a visual inspection to ensure the weld meets criteria for purge gas, penetration, weld profile, porosity, etc.
Good point with the machining. So here is what I'm talking about, see that ring of rust? Obviously it needs hit with some BKF to clean out but that groove would not be there if it was sanitary.
View attachment 172667
As far as them being machined. The left part is from glacier tanks, you can see the machining. The right came from stout tanks. Looks cast then polished like you said.
View attachment 172668
kickflip_mj said:That's exactly what I'm talking about! Thank you for posting pictures. In the future if like to get a away from these threaded electric ball valves. But in the mean time, I don't want to spend the coin until something cheaper hits the market. For a few months there I was working on sanitary electric ball valves. I was making progress but the costs seemed unreasonable for a homebrewer. Not only that I spent around $500 on RD that didn't end anywhere. now that I just mentioned this, I think I figured out how to fix a problem. Hmm what if I came up with a solution and just posted it for free so that anyone can create a valve without my added costs?
I haven't seen a close up of the ball valves you are using. Could you have a local welder drill out some end caps and then weld them on? If the ball valves are fps you would need to have them turned smooth too though.
kickflip_mj said:Thats exactly what I was thinking about doing. What do you think it will cost to have a machine shop lathe the threads out of a stainless 1/2 ball valve? Hmm maybe I should buy a small lathe and give it a go
Thats exactly what I was thinking about doing. What do you think it will cost to have a machine shop lathe the threads out of a stainless 1/2 ball valve? Hmm maybe I should buy a small lathe and give it a go
Hmmmm.......I don't THINK, that any of those "tri clover" fittings are cast.
The "polished" vs. "machined" look is probably from the polished one going into a "vibratory" de-burring / polishing machine after manufacturing.
I could be mistaken.............I was once.
That I couldn't tell you. I do want to find a welder to tack some TC fittings to my counter flow though. If you want to buy a lathe, I'd recommend looking into the HF mini lathe, I've come close to buying one many times. Also http://www.mini-lathe.com is an excellent resource to get started.
Thats exactly what I was thinking about doing. What do you think it will cost to have a machine shop lathe the threads out of a stainless 1/2 ball valve? Hmm maybe I should buy a small lathe and give it a go
that might be what I end up doing...I suppose stainless to stainless is no more difficult than soldering stainless to copper. Right now I have some of those screw on TC fittings but the goal is to not have any threads because I'm lazy and hate cleaning themJust drill out the TC end caps and solder them on like I did, it was super easy!
Enter your email address to join: