Ondori
Well-Known Member
Yes, but I don't think you want them in there for 2 weeks.
Denny,
I am pretty much doing your recipe, just without the bourbon. How long would you leave the vanilla in for?
Yes, but I don't think you want them in there for 2 weeks.
Denny,
I am pretty much doing your recipe, just without the bourbon. How long would you leave the vanilla in for?
I start tasting samples after 3-5 days. Sometimes it's ready then, sometimes it takes 10-12 days. It really depends on how fresh your vanilla is and how strong you want to flavor to be.
Funny that I should really (almost) find the answer to my question after reading almost 500 posts! I was wondering whether vanilla beans are considered "fruit" and need to be added to a secondary. I was reading your discussion on the Northern Forum before I brewed your BVIP and even there there was no consensus about primary vs. secondary (although it appeared that most followed your original recipe calling for a secondary). Do you have any final thoughts on this or more experience both ways yourself?
Many thanks! Can't wait to see how it turns out!
Recently I have cranked up the temperature when around 60%-70% of fermentation is complete. I start at 64-68 (depending on the beer) and will allow the temperature to free rise to 70-72 degrees until the final gravity is stable for a few days.... I find this technique is fast, produces a very clean beer, and attenuates fully EVERY time.
I have a question for the HBT experts and long primary folks - How long is it necessary to keep your fermenting beers in a precise temp controlled chamber?
I ask this because in the interest of saving space and money, I do not want to add a second fermentation chamber, but I also do not want to tie up my current one for 4 weeks with a high grav beer. Is there a certain threshold, say after 1-2 weeks (depending on high grav or style) where it is not so critical to keep a precise temperature? And what is the specific ambient temperature that is safe? I keep my house around 80* during the day (in summer, 60* in winter) and back down to below 70-75 at night. I don't want the 80* or 60* ambient temp to affect a beer negatively.
I have a question for the HBT experts and long primary folks - How long is it necessary to keep your fermenting beers in a precise temp controlled chamber?
I ask this because in the interest of saving space and money, I do not want to add a second fermentation chamber, but I also do not want to tie up my current one for 4 weeks with a high grav beer. Is there a certain threshold, say after 1-2 weeks (depending on high grav or style) where it is not so critical to keep a precise temperature? And what is the specific ambient temperature that is safe? I keep my house around 80* during the day (in summer, 60* in winter) and back down to below 70-75 at night. I don't want the 80* or 60* ambient temp to affect a beer negatively.
How often are you checking the gravity?
But in response to the poster who doesn't want to tie up his ferm chamber, know that there are a number of folks here who make great beer and go flame-to-glass in 10-14 days as a regular practice. It's all about process and healthy fermentation.
Recently I have cranked up the temperature when around 60%-70% of fermentation is complete. I start at 64-68 (depending on the beer) and will allow the temperature to free rise to 70-72 degrees until the final gravity is stable for a few days.
Also, is there still a viable yeast colony suspended in the beer after 30 days for the purpose of bottle carbonation?
Old school here, been 2-stage fermenting for years.
Jamil and John talk about how home brewer's fermenters have broad bottoms (unlike commercial conicals) , but what about home brewers using conical fermenters for 10 gallon batches ?
Still no harm fermenting for 4 weeks in a conical?
Also, is there still a viable yeast colony suspended in the beer after 30 days for the purpose of bottle carbonation?
Old school here, been 2-stage fermenting for years.
Jamil and John talk about how home brewer's fermenters have broad bottoms (unlike commercial conicals) , but what about home brewers using conical fermenters for 10 gallon batches ?
Still no harm fermenting for 4 weeks in a conical?
Also, is there still a viable yeast colony suspended in the beer after 30 days for the purpose of bottle carbonation?
Puddlethumper said:So I'm doing my first batch of IPA and moved it to secondary and dry hopped after first week. How important is temperature control during the three weeks the recipe calls for in the secondary?
Silverback23 said:Wow,
Just read all of this thread. Quick question. I have a basic Porter sitting in the primary. Plan on leaving there for about two months, due to my travel plans. At the end of the first month, I'd like to add some fresh mint and fresh vanilla beans that have been steeping in Cognac for a month. Can i throw it all in the primary, about 16 oz of Cognac (mint & Vanilla beans too) without harming the beer. About 16 oz of Cognac. It will be in a grain bag ( Mint and Vanilla). The cognac plus mint and vanilla will spend a month in the primary total. Opinions?
For that long I would rack off of your yeast before adding the cognac. That seems like a ton of booze to be adding. I wonder what the abv will end up at and if it will effect the yeast in suspension. Do you bottle condition or keg?
You sure it didn't say to ferment for 3 weeks and then dry hop in secondary vessel for one week? .
Yah. I read the recipe correctly. The reason I posted the message as I did is so those who had a copy of Palmer's book could, if they chose to, look at the recipe and enter their comments. From your question I must assume you either don't own the book or didn't bother to read the recipe.
Just a thought - isn't the whole autolysis thing in beer something of a carryover from winemaking experience? I understand that in winemaking you are much more likely to hit alcohol tolerance limits and so when primary ends you have a lot of stressed and dead yeast. For the higher ABV% wines the habit is to get the wine off the lees ASAP.
Contrast that to beermaking where the yeast are often not up against their alcohol tolerance and are basically just going dormant after the fermentables run out. If beer trub was all dead yeast no one would bother washing it, right? Most of the time there is more living yeast coming out of the carboy than going in.
Are you talking about the "Victory and Chaos IPA" from How to Brew by Palmer? It's hard to know what recipe you're talking about when you don't reference it directly or post a link to it. The "Victory and Chaos IPA" recipe does say 1 week primary and 3 weeks secondary:
Hey folks, I've read through most of this thread and haven't seen an answer to my question.
I'd like , but I'm concerned about sanitation. In my secondary carboy, I have an airlock and do not fear the beer getting infected. But my primary is just a large bucket with a lid... should I put this lid on tight?
Usually I leave the lid loose for the few days the beer is in the primary before transferring to the carboy.
To complicate, sometimes my batch bubbles over and leaves a huge mess, which must only increase the likelihood of a wild yeast or something taking hold...
... for the first time added a few cups of malt extract in the primary to juice the finished product alc % ...
Wow thanks Homercidal for the quick and detailed response!
I usually don't have blowoff problems, but for the first time added a few cups of malt extract in the primary to juice the finished product alc % - I'm guessing this may be why. the temp in the basement sits between 66-69.
Great advice, I'll invest in a blowoff tube with bung which can easily be replaced with an airlock.
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