SpikeBrewing said:I first got into the homebrew business by making keggles. What do you want to know? You'll be hard pressed to find a better reference on the subject than myself
What's the best location for a ball valve and thermometer in relation to the keg handles?
Also, would an 11 inch hole be to small for some reason, it's the lid size I currently have. Doing BIAB. Brewingwithbobby has some good vids on YouTube.
Golddiggie said:The keggles that the LHBS I shop at has some kind of black trim material along the cut opening. Looks like it helps it to make a better seal as well as protects the edges (or protects you from the cut edge). Any idea as to what they used? I want to make sure whatever I use is safe at least to boiling wort temps, or at least 250F.
I cut my keggle to be opening to just over 12" the first time. It's as large an opening as I could get with the tool I used. I have another tool coming (air cutoff tool) that i plan to use to get the opening larger. I figure that I should be able to get within .5"-1" from the edge this way.
Golddiggie said:I cleaned up the edge on the opening on mine already. I just want to make it a bit better/bigger than it currently is. It's not 100% round (only slighly 'off') with this time. With the second cutting, it should be much better. I will use the flap disc I used the first time to deburr and make the edge human safe. :rockin: With the right disc, it's easy to do.
Exactly. Just was not sure how one could debur and clean up the edge and it still be sharp enough to cut someone. Just wasnt making sense to me...
I cleaned up the edge on the opening on mine already. I just want to make it a bit better/bigger than it currently is. It's not 100% round (only slighly 'off') with this time. With the second cutting, it should be much better. I will use the flap disc I used the first time to deburr and make the edge human safe. :rockin: With the right disc, it's easy to do.
No matter how well you deburr it the kettle will still be sharp.
I'm still avoiding PVC for my spider.
With access to cheap, good welding, there's no way I'd go weldless. Most people use weldless because of the difficulty of finding a good welder for a reasonable price.
I picked up two kegs the other day, where is the cheapest place to order the couplers, close nipples, pick up tube, valve, sight glass, and thermometer? is it all needed? is welded "better" than weldless? i am a union steelworker so the cost of welding is not an issue.
sorry op, not trying to hijack but this thread is perfect timing for me
With access to cheap, good welding, there's no way I'd go weldless. Most people use weldless because of the difficulty of finding a good welder for a reasonable price. I currently think I have the best sightglass design out there for the price but of course I'm biased. It's probably best to shop around and see how few orders you can get away with due to the incremental shipping.
Welded fittings are hands down better. No worries of leaks ever. If welding isn't an option then Bobby M has some great products and prices :rockin:
I picked up two kegs the other day, where is the cheapest place to order the couplers, close nipples, pick up tube, valve, sight glass, and thermometer? is it all needed? is welded "better" than weldless? i am a union steelworker so the cost of welding is not an issue.
sorry op, not trying to hijack but this thread is perfect timing for me
passedpawn said:I wouldn't buy a sight glass from anyone but Bobby_M. I've had different ones and his is the best, by far. See this.
Hrmm just placed an order for a three way tee sight from bargain fittings, should I be concerned about quality vs. bobby's?
With access to cheap, good welding, there's no way I'd go weldless. Most people use weldless because of the difficulty of finding a good welder for a reasonable price. I currently think I have the best sightglass design out there for the price but of course I'm biased. It's probably best to shop around and see how few orders you can get away with due to the incremental shipping.
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