pola0502ds
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- Jan 12, 2011
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I like that idea too.
Quaffer, I have been looking at other peoples wiring diagrams for the same love temp controller. I just got mine in last night and plan to wire it tonight but on these other diagrams I never see them jumping 2 terminals. Why do you do that?
Also, are there different versions of the tsx-10140 that I should worry about, like making sure that if I use your wiring diagram I need to make sure the love controller is exactly the same. The part number is but I don't know if I can check for something else.
Thanks Buddy, got everything wired and working but I am getting a open probe error?
Your right I should completely understand this but I guess i don't, why do I need to wire into the original thermostat? I thought that is what the controller and prob are for? My buddy who does wiring for a living is wondering if we can just completely get rid of the original thermostat.
On the original thermostat should I have it turned all the way up or down?
After you have it wired up and do the first test run, should the freezer kick on right away if the set point is at 45? Or because of some of the settings, will it take a few minutes to turn on?
After you have it wired up and do the first test run, should the freezer kick on right away if the set point is at 45? Or because of some of the settings, will it take a few minutes to turn on?
It is a requirement that temperature controllers above a certain size do not start the compressor immediately after a power outage. The reason is that it will be very hard for the utility company to start all those compressors at once. The start time is a few minutes, and I think it varies between different controllers to give the utility company a soft power-up.
I've never heard of this requirement before and I'm having a hard time believing it's true, and especially so for small residential type refrigerators and freezers. Many of the digital controllers have an anti-short cycle delay feature and it's purpose is to protect the compressor in the event a malfunction of some kind. The ASD setting is typically adjustable from 0-30 minutes. There is no other delay feature that I am aware of as might be a government requirement.
Remember that this temperature controller is not meant for home refrigerators or freezers. It is meant for larger commercial units, for where there may be multiple such units. You have noticed this power-on delay in the Love controller, right? Or are you speaking hypothetically without actually owning one of these?
I have a Johnson A419 and several of the analogs. I also have a Love controller. It's still in the box, but I've read the instructions and manual, so I'm familiar with the settings. There are a number of parameters for the Love controller that can delay cycling, but they can all be set to zero as well.
The Love controller is designed to operate any heating or cooling device up to a 16 amp draw according to the specs. The point being that they are designed for smaller units, not larger industrial equipment.
I'm still not buying the thing about delayed start requirements. Can you point me to the regulation you are referring to. You know, document your claim so to speak? I didn't think so.
A 2x8 on edge stands so tall that the blade does not quite make it halfway through the width of the board. The top of the board is therefore "safe" to hold on to. As long as the board goes straight through there is no problem, but it is difficult to correct for misalignments. The blade binds easily. I do confess being more than a little nervous doing this though. Now that I think of it, I don't recommend people doing this.
If your Love controller works like mine, and I think it will, you will find that the minimum off time is set to zero by default, yet there is a power-on delay of a few minutes. The power-on delay is not mentioned in the manual, nor can it be adjusted.
Larger industrial units are often controlled by contactors which are easily driven by the modest relay in the controller.
If there is a requirement for power-on delay, and there still might be, it would be one set forth by power companies or industrial groups, not the government. I will get back to you on this because all I have right now is from memory.
I posted this at #290, "So what are you guys doing to cover up the back of the controller? the wires are still exposed so I need to do something to at least splash proof it."
Is this even a concern?
So after running my keezer for a few days I noticed that if i have my temp set to 40 degrees the controller reads 35. Is there anyway to correct this? Quaffer, i followed your programming guide to a tee.
So you don't put your probe in a glass of water?
What exactly does the differential do?
I was actually thinking about finding a water proof electrical box and mounting it to the back of the control to protect it against possible splashes etc...
So to test the temp of your beer, do you just pour a glass and measure it right away?
Awesome! Thanks guys.
Got the collar all cut/joined/wood puttied and sanded. I just need to cut the holes for the shanks, temp contoller anb wires out the back. After that, I start staining. Nice to know that the Red Mahogany truns out looking nice. Maybe it was just the pine I was using that was giving it a purplish look. I have since moved to the Hemlock since my first attempt at a colar was a msierable disaster. I was trying to use a little better quality wood so I bought finished pine boards. The problem is that the are only 3/4" think so I was gluing two of them together around all of the sides. What a mess. Oh well...live and learn. I was a little afraid of the hemlock because I thought I wouldn't be able to find two boards that were straight. First two I picked off of the pile were near perfect.
I did have another question: What size hole saw for the shank holes? I think I read somewhere else the 7/8" works best. Can you guys confirm?
Also, for anyone else following this thread: My freezer (like most I would think) has a textured finish...almost rubberized. I found a nice paint that worked perfectly. I originally tried the Rustomeum Appliance Epoxy, but since it was enamel based it seemed to chip off a little easy. I could actually scrath it off with my finger nail after sitting for 2 days. This is what I ended up using (available at Lowes/HD):
http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=178
OVERVIEW:
New Rust-Oleum Universal is specifically formulated to work on diverse surfaces including wood, plastic, metal, brick, concrete and even vinyl. The Rust-Oleum Universal advanced spray system can spray from any angle even upside down.
PRODUCT FEATURES:
For use on interior / exterior environments
One Universal coating for diverse substrates
Ultimate flexibility for extreme applications
Maximum adhesion for demanding substrates
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Fade and chip resistant
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This stuff is pure awesomeness!
Thanks again!
John
Is 3/4" wood not big enough? That is what I just cut. I haven't assembled yet. I am going to glue foam insulation to the wood so hopefully that will help. The wood cost me $50 so I really hope 3/4" will work? Thoughts?
Cool. What are people that are connecting the collar to the top using to bind the two together?
Cool. What are people that are connecting the collar to the top using to bind the two together?
I do that and I also have a wireless thermometer with the probe inside the keg. I just put the transmitter inside a ziplock bag, sanitize it and float it on top of the beer. The poured beer will typically be several degrees warmer in the glass than it is in the keg. I suppose the lines, shanks, taps and the glass itself warm up the beer some right away as it is poured.
pola0502ds said:For people worrying about the thickness of their wood. You can make the frame out of 3/4" thick wood but if you still have a concern you can cut some small strips and attach it along each edge, top and bottom. This will build it out and give the top and bottom more surface area. (snip)
how long is the probe on the transmitter? thats pretty cool. You think if you put it in a plastic back it would just float and the probe would not be in the beer providing correct temps.
I like your idea.
1. I have a brand new Love TS-13010 controller and I just checked it out. There is no delay. All of the parameters (d2 thru c3), which could affect a delay have a default value of zero. Cut power to the controller several times over a period of 10 minutes or so. Nope...no delay at all. None of my other controllers have a delay either.
2. IIRC, this is still a semi-free country. I don't think the power companies have the authority to issue such a broad regulation to manufacturers. Either it's code or it's not. If it is a code type regulation, I would think that it could be located somewhere.. Industrial groups would likely automatically reject the idea on the basis that it lacks flexibility.
3. Yes, small relays can be set up to operate larger relays. No surprise there. These controllers are nothing more than digital thermostats with a built in relay that handles line voltage. Some have more features than others, but they are still just simple digital temperature switches.
Hmm. Well, there is the possibility that I am wrong about this. I will check my controller again. My information is all hearsay, so I cannot say for sure.
I searched the web a little and I came up with a few items. This page says that the delay protects the compressor after a power outage (read 3rd paragraph).
This PDF page talks about power outage protection for the compressor also (1st paragraph).
This temperature controller information page says "Automatic Delay Restart (ADR)
Auto restart delay: Ensures on line quality after power failure, decreases power loading, and protects the compressor."
I think my information was basically correct, except for the "requirement" part.
2. IIRC, this is still a semi-free country. I don't think the power companies have the authority to issue such a broad regulation to manufacturers. Either it's code or it's not. If it is a code type regulation, I would think that it could be located somewhere.. Industrial groups would likely automatically reject the idea on the basis that it lacks flexibility.
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