Very nice! I like that clean style....
And yeah, that's a HUGE box! Keep us posted on your build
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Can't tell. Is that a plastic electrical box that you have your ground screw in???
This build is no longer going to be 120V. I am stepping up to 220V for the ease of wiring. With 220V I can simply run wire for one 220V outlet vs. running two seperate 20A circuits. 220V will also effeciently handle all my electrical needs for this setup. The lowest wattage for a 220V heating element I can find is 3800 watts. More than enough for this small setup.
A few parts came in allowing me to build the tri-clamp heating element.
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Some milling was required in the box so the heating element would sit properly.
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Tri-clamp allows quick removal for cleaning or element replacement.
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A few sanitary ferrules that will be welded to the vessel hopefully within the next week.
FYI:
a 120VAC 2000W element easily produces a good boil in 5 gallons of wort. IMO, for 3.5g batches 240VAC is overkill and pretty seriously complicates the wiring. But, its your build.
My question is why do you need two 120VAC circuits??? IRL, a 2000W element pump and a bunch of other crap still doesn't overload even a 15amp circuit while boiling 5g.
I know the science doesn't quite work, but I can tell you reality and electronics meet in a gray area almost everytime.
My comment was to say, just use one 120VAC outlet and be done with it. Simple and clean.
But a 20A would and that's not hard to come by. I wonder the same thing. for a 3.5G setup, why would you need two outlets?
I work in the bio/pharm industry. (wink wink)You must've gotten your other ferrules from BrewMagic? 1/2" and 3/4" triclover stuff is hard to find!
I can understand wanting more headroom for further expansion. However, I would like to see someone else do this with 120V/20A as I am currently a renter and I think it wouldn't be smart to pay someone to run 220v for a brew system.
Still being somewhat new to the brewing world. I was under the thinking that at some point during the brewing process it was necessary to run both heating elements, therfore requiring two 20A outlets. Knowing now that is not necessary I would like to continue with my original plan of 120V setup. Using a 3 position switch to select between heating elements would prevent both elements ever being turned on at the same time.
I work in the bio/pharm industry. (wink wink)
It could be done in a way that actually simplifies things.
Instead of plugging into two separate 120V circuits, he could plug into one 240V circuit, but split that into two separate 120V domains inside his panel.
So, everything could still be 120V, but it just gets fed with a single 240V source.
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