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When making Munich you raise the temp hogget than you would for pale or pills while the malt is still wry. This encourages maillard reactions which give Munich it's... Munichiness. With crystal malt in particular the temp is raised through sach rest temps and held long enough to completely...

I'll just add that you are a lot better off using all light DME and steeping some medium crystal malt for color and complexity. You'll end up with a crisper, drier, more drinkable beer.

I have three active and one I just bottled. I bottled an 18 month and 6 month solera with cherries. Still to bottle a 12 month farmhouse with primary fermented with almanac dregs and aged in oak. Then two small experimental projects, one with sourdough culture and one a hoppy sour.

This is also an excellent idea.

You won't get your target cell count that way however because the maximum population density will be hit in 2 liters at about 400 billion cells. If you have two containers each 2 liters you can split the slurry from the first step into two starters and get your target cell count.

In this case the addition of the lambic culture would void any worries about yeast off flavors because the Brett and bacteria will consume the sach yeast byproducts

Also, I would check a bottle at two weeks to make sure it's not getting over carbonated.

Extract tends to be less fermentable. Perhaps because the maltsters included a large amount of crystal malt, perhaps because they mashed the grains at a very high temp to speed up the process. Perhaps the dehydration process affects the fermentability. I have heard the Briess pilsner DME is very...

Are you using a hydrometer for your readings? The best thing you can do for a big beer is to not move to secondary until it's done. That doesn't help much here obviously. However, if you are using a refractometer and not adjusting the twins for the presence of alcohol that would account for it...

You could also go back to the hbs after the brew day and get some more hops for dry hoping.

I suspect the brewers gold should go in at 60 minutes remaining. I'd hold on to all the fuggles and add them after the boil while you are chilling the wort after it is down to about 170. This will optimize your flavor and aroma with minimal additional bitterness. You can also add one can of lme...

I'm a beer Brewer mostly. I dabble with Mead and cider on occasion.

Welcome. I'm not a wine maker myself but a fan of exercising your inherent human freedoms regardless of political realities. Be careful though.

I don't do the untapped thing because mostly I'm busy enjoying my beer when I'm drinking one. But I am now a fan because I'm on there! Last January I had the fun opportunity to brew one of my review at thirsty bear is San Fransisco. Last weekend I finally got to taste the beer and I also found...

It will bubble as co2 comes out of solution and as volumes change in the container with ambient temps. Is done. It's probably been done for three weeks. The only reliable way to track the fermentation is to measure the gravity with a reliable hydrometer or refractometer. Once the gravity stays...

The s type airlocks prevent suck back of liquid. They just bubble in reverse.

You've mentioned the warm/hot alcohol character a few times now. That is usually the result of fermenting too warm. I'm not sure what you are using for temperature control but that is the first place to look for improvement. For ale you want the wort to be around 64 degrees f when you pitch the...

A couple hours in the fridge should drop the yeast so you can decant the supernascent but it will be fine either way.

No don't pitch warmer. That's a recipe for hot overly estery beer. A short lag time has nothing to do with it. In fact a really quick start to fermentation can cause stuck ferments because the yeast will burn out their nutrients before all the sugar is gone.

Sounds to me like it's fine. If it tastes good what does it matter what the numbers are? By chance are you using a refractometer to take your reading?