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I have a lab grade temperature recirculator that would work perfect for this but I am wondering how you plan on sterilizing the cooling coil?

So this is not a cheap route to go unless you are willing to wait and look for parts selling for cheap but this is my solution to the pump issue. Sorry about the poor quality video, I'll make better videos when the project gets farther along.

ElDunderino, The ones you rent tend to be hydraulic conduit punch but yes even the Greenlee ones work fine, it just wears the cutting surface faster but it will not break.

I wouldn't worry about the equipment ground, GFCI doesn't require one to work, you can even get plug in adapters for 240 GFCI. GFCI is what will save your life but I do have another issue with your setup. Why don't you just rent a conduit punch for an hour, punch your pot and put in a normal...

I am debating running a 1/4 HP three phase motor with a positive displacement head. This should be self priming and you would set the flow rate via the motor drive vs a restriction valve and a mag drive pump. I am just trying to source an appropriate pump head but I'll document it if this does...

Did you make sure to use the washer around the dip tube?

I think you have something with the yeasts, this is the first time I had ever used pacman and it did finish a lot lower then I expected. It is a good beer as is, just not a great beer. I'll run a 10 gallon batch this weekend and WLP001 and Wyeast 1056 I may add in the crystal 40 as you said...

Thanks old_tx_kbb OG 1.076 FG 1.012 (I know I let it go too far) And I was at 62F for the ferment.

I am not good at the lighter bodied beers, but I have the following recipe that I have built, it is good but the middle is just a bit lacking in body IMHO. Does anyone have a good suggesting on what to add? Amount Item Type % or IBU 17.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 88.31 %...

You may have killed it, the issue is that ice crystals break the cell wall. Some of the yeast may have frozen in a way that didn't compromise the cell so it is worth making a starter and seeing if you can get it to ferment though. If so you can just cold crash it, remove some of the liquid and...

Try adding 10 min to your mash time and also calibrate the thermometer in your mash tun.

jeffB, I have a two way manifold off my main on tank regulator, I run that regulator at typical carb and soda pressure. I then have a secondary mini sub regulator that kicks the beer kegs down to serving pressure. the secondary regulators tend to be less expensive.

Many Places do not actually fill on site, they exchange and they simply do not carry the 2.5# cylinders for exchange. The more frustrating part is that the cost for exchanging a 5# 10# or 20# is basically the same here. You may not have this issue in you area, or you may need to sweet talk...

I have one more thing you may want to think about. Around my neck of the woods you can't get anyone to refill a 2.5lb tank. 5 pound tanks are easy to have swapped or filled.

Thanks Hex and CrazedArmadillo, I'll do some water tests and start at 150, I may have a beer to keg in a week or two so it may just be worth it to do some experiments. I think the temp rating on this unit is a bit ambitious as the heater is a little weak but the shaker and the blower works...

I know that magnetic stirrers are all the rage but I like big old complex things and thus I picked up the following at an auction for a song. It is a lab orbital shaker, with heat. What do you think the idea mix RPM would be and do you think this is as effective as a magnetic stirrer...