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Because with an LM317 it isn't the value of either resistor that sets the voltage, it's the ratio between them. I was using a 220 ohm fixed resistor, so a 2.5 kohm pot allowed for a range of ~11 V. With a potentiometer wired in series, all you're doing is sinking some of the current into the...

V = IR 12 = 0.17*R R = 12/0.17 = 71 ohm The closest common value would be 100 ohm: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=023-604 A 25 ohm would only allow you to reduce the speed by 25/71 = 35%.

Only if you use an old, inaccurate calculator. ;)

This may be helpful: http://seanterrill.com/2011/04/07/refractometer-fg-results/

You're right... not sure where I went wrong doing the math there. At any rate, it's still about on par with measurement errors. Based on previous results, I know that a 1.03 correction will get me within 1% almost every time.

I found this thread by pingback to the refractometer calculator, so I'm sorry to be so late to the party. I suspect that any variation you're seeing is due to measurement technique, rather than a physical property of the wort. I would look at stratification (do you pull the wort sample from the...

If you're fermenting only simple sugars, then you wouldn't need a correction factor, and you'd want to use an FG correlation intended for wine, not beer.

Exactly; that's what makes it a survey. There's a second uncontrolled variable - the equipment/recipe/process. If I polled 100 people on their choice of breakfast cereals and compiled the results, they might be useful, but it wouldn't be a controlled experiment.

BYO only puts select articles online: http://***********/component/resource/article/Indices/18-Brewing%20Science/2025-pitching-rate-experiment You should be able to find the episode discussing the results in the BBR archives. It's worth mentioning that that wasn't a controlled experiment...

You have to specify: "enough" yeast for what? A few thousand cells will successfully ferment a 5 gal batch, given enough time. What that would taste like, who knows. In order to achieve the typical flavor profile for a given yeast strain, you need to pitch at roughly the typical pitching...

As I said later on, I think it's justifiable to discount the preferences of tasters who can't differentiate the two beers. That said, I wanted to clearly distinguish my interpretations from the actual data. Obviously you can disagree with my conclusions. If you have questions about any...

170°F is pretty marginal as far as denaturing enzymes goes. Ideally you want to get to at least 80°C (176°F). And then you need to hold that temperature for at least 15 min for all the proteins to be completely denatured. Briefly heating the mash and then allowing it to cool again isn't enough.

Make a small starter and pitch it at high krausen. After this amount of time I'd be worried about some contaminating microbe or other getting going in a serious way. You need to get some active yeast in there ASAP. Where did you get the yeast? You might want to let them know you got a bum vial.

You could do something like a barley wine, old ale, or strong Belgian-style ale (BDSA or Quadrupel). It should ferment out in 10-14 days or so, then would benefit from several months of aging. Good beer to have to celebrate your return too. I wouldn't leave anything on the yeast for 5 months...

86% ADF isn't all that high for 001. I've mashed as high as 72°C in order to keep attenuation in the 70s when using that strain. It's entirely possible that your thermometer is accurate at boiling but not at mash temps, though.

I'm not sure I follow. I didn't edit either post. At any rate, I think there is a point in continuing, because disseminating accurate information can only make us all better brewers in the long run. Wort is composed of various sugars in solution. Some of those sugars are fermentable and some...

Granted, but that's the definition of the original strain having stalled out. If the original pitch of yeast doesn't get down to the attenuation limit of the wort, there will be a problem no matter what yeast is used for bottle conditioning.

Only if the original strain stalled out though. And in that case you'd have grenades no matter what yeast you used to condition.

I would rehydrate it following the manufacturer's directions and mix it into the bottling bucket at the same time as the priming sugar solution. 1-2 g of yeast per 5 gal should be enough. The type of yeast doesn't really matter either, so if you have something other than champagne yeast around...

Not necessarily. Your municipality might have the data if you call or email them.