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I say drink locally....you might find a new favorite hard to get item. Head on down to Great Divide A few blocks east of Broadway at 22nd and Arapahoe (I think) for some Titan IPA, Yeti Imperial Stout, Hercules Double IPA, or Claymore Scotch (wee heavy). Hit Cheeky Monk (E. Colfax 5-6 blocks...

If you have a location (his restaurant), getting proper zoning, city, state, and fed paperwork would be a pain, but not horribly expensive (it would, however, be time consuming). If there is a minimum BBL size requirement of your brewery (hard to believe that they would require you to be bigger...

Houblon wrote: jalgayer wrote: Beet sugar is table sugar....no wonder it tastes the same. I think it doesn't really matter....you are homebrewing. If you don't like the effect, change next time.

Brewham Wrote: +1 on this.....I used to do this exact thing when I bottled in the kitchen. Now I use the dishwasher, but move the bottles when hot (almost too hot to touch) and dry (I use the heat drying of the dishwasher as well) and move them to my bottling area.....never had a bad bottle...

my set up is similar to yours keggle HLT above keggle mash tun above boil keggle....and a pump to recirculate and move if necessary. I am usually done in 20 minutes but I slow the flow down using the valves at about 20% open. 82% efficiency average (basically high 70's to high 80's).

Ironically, I too have just visited and written on the GCB in golden. Welcome back to Denver. http://onbeer.blogspot.com/2010/07/heres-to-being-second.html

beets grow all over the midwest of the US, even in pretty dry climates (like eastern colorado and western nebraska)....sugar cane is a tropical plant. Cane derived sugar is much much more expensive in the US than beet derived sugar.

Hey, what is the reason for the collar anyway? Why not just drill a hole for a tower or two on the lid?....or is it to allow for another keg or two on the hump?

I have been taught that the bottles' necks can't take the strain.....but have heard of others using them to some success (not sure about long term). Safety first, man. Look at it as an excuse to buy some more good beer before you brew.:)

Most of my ales (and all of the lower gravity ones) are done in two weeks time or less brewing at various temps between 64 and 68....1 week at 70 F. So, maybe it might take a few extra days at 60. Use the airlock method.....wait until at least 60 seconds between bubbles in the airlock, or use...

as for the term P-lager, I think that any beer using an ale yeast but designed to emulate either a particular lager style (such as pilsner) or minimize the effects of the ale yeast could be called Pseudo....I would call many blonde or summer ales that utilize neutral yeasts and other ingredients...

I have used this analogy before. Brewing is like making sauce or soup. You can open a can, add water and you have cooked soup....or you can make your own stock and add ingredients to make a soup from scratch. I always enjoy my scratch made soup a little better, as I added all of the...

+3 on Designing Great Beers....it addresses what constitutes each style in formulating your recipes....invaluable as a guide, but tasting a lot of beer to understand what you like and don't and how ingredients and process affect the beer you like is just as important....oh, and experience (just...

Ditto at 5280'.

+1 on patience. A skill that most need to develop (especially me, 1 week after bottling). Pitch rates, pitch temp, aeration at pitching time, using the best quality and freshest liquid yeast all may help both your problematic stuck fermentations and bottle conditioning time. Try some less big...

I am not good with the math (those with computer programs will chime in, I figure), but the measuring process is the issue. Your final gravity was 1.012 on the 8th day, your recipe indicated an estimated FG at 1.011....for all practical purposes your FG was at or below 1.012. Then you added...

So, if I am not crazy and they have changed the recipe (or perhaps FT just doesn't age well), maybe New Belgium (Kim are you listening?) could brew Fat Tire "Classic" (you have to be old enough to remember the New Coke debacle) to give some love to their old fans.

We up here don't use galv pipe for water anymore in domestic supply (do we? We don't here), just copper and now some plastics....it may still be code for ya down over under yonder (but I still don't like it). Temperature and corrosives are the main concerns (wort, boiling, welding, saliva) for...

Mixing the two in equal amounts is as good as any other solution, but I would probably just go with either 20L or 40L, the difference is not that great in color or flavor. Don't sweat it, your beer will never be the same twice anyway (well, for most of us without automated or computer...

Run like hell.....Galvanization is poisonous, especially when heated (not sure if only to welding temps). Heated wort will dissolve some of it into your beer, I believe. I was told that you shouldn't use galvanized utensils or eat or drink from galvanized vessels (like buckets and old time...