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I have a 22 gal automated system that monitors the mash temp under the grain bed exiting the mash tun. My M tun is insulated somewhat. I was always told the temps in or out does not matter, the important temp was the actual grain bed temp. The wort coming from the bed should be an accurate...

From what i have read on here the best place to measure temps at the mash tun for control, would be at the return from the HEX. I am in the process of building a new brewing system, 20-25 gal. and question, wouldnt it make more sense to measure at the return from the HEX, and at the wort under...

Oh, sorry i do have 1/2 pipe insulation around the middle section of the brewhemoths, and ambient is 70.

I use one of the little submersible pond pumps from Northern Tool on both of mine, they have worked great for 4 batches now. I use 15 gal of water in a chest freezer i cool to 34 and can get 1 brewhemoth to 50 for lagers and the other to 64 at the same time.

Thanks I have the LG on order, seems most people dont have any prefrence one way or the other or have owned 1 brand only and have no opinion. I am not impressed by the output of my 809 but it will work great for HERMS circulation, and i can use the LG for whirlpooling. I was just hesitant...

I know there have been many threads on best pump, but my wife has agreed to purchase me a second pump for fathers day, and I would like one with a little more flow for Whirlpooling 20-25gal batches, my choices right now are this...

Excellent thanks for the info:ban: Now can anyone recommend an RO system for something like this, I already have a tank. that I could use to store the RO water, as I was thinking hard about using rain water instead, but this has sealed the deal for me, I will definately be getting an RO system.

So if I read what you are saying correctly, all I need is a RO system, and I can build my water like everyone else, and not have to buy it? This water would be very soft, great for light beers would it not? PH neutral, can be adjusted lower with acid malt kh and gh + TDS can be adjusted with...

Sorry for the lengthy post. I have had to purchase water to brew with for the last 2 years, since i found out that aweful flavor I was getting, was from the high alkalinity in my water. I usually use spring water for darker beers and half spring, and half distilled for my lighter beers. I have...

Im afraid so I supposed to recieve mine in June, There are 1.5" tri-clovers on the Kettle like you say but it doesnt say what pipe size they are welded to. If 1.5" pipe is used then I should be ok. I am setting my brew rig up for gas or electric on the Kettle end until i can get an element put...

For those of you who have bought the stout tanks boil kettle what size is the opening in the Tri-clover for the outlet, and if you have one, the sight glass? I am looking to recieve a 30gal in a few weeks, and was curious if any of those ports were big enough to put an electric element into...

If you can figure out what they use, in a electric on demand water heater for that purpose that would be your best bet, because they never dri fire as i know of, I have 2 myself, and they work terriffic down here in the Southland.

I have the ecco temp 8 i believe in my kitchen, not as good as the usa heater 60 amp heater i had before you will have to cut the flow to get good heating, and like the post before will only go so far then cut out.

I been brewing for about 2 years now with keggles, and a Ice chest with a copper manifold for a mash tun. I am going to build a mash tun with a 100 qt, aluminum pot, and i have some questions for those of you with false bottom experience. Is there some rules to go by in the placement of the...

I know most of you will be placing these in old friges etc. curious if anyone is going to use the internal cooling, I bought two of these myself, and just ordered 1 set of the cooling coils to try it out. I also plan to insulate with 1/2" Armaflex and then a thin stainless sheet with latches...

Where did you get a new Chugger pump? I have been waiting on them to start selling them again for awhile now.

Those are the bee's Knees, if they work as listed. Had no idea they existed. Let us know how you make out with them.

Yep, just grabbed the cheapest one, happen to be the through beam sensor. here's the link to the single sensor but quite a bit more expensive. http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/prox18mmultrasu.pdf

This one works a little different it is ultrasonic. If he is willing to drill another hole this switch looks pretty cool and is what some others are using now. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ive-been-using-hwd-elements-while-now-204412/index2.html#post2394717