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I'd tap into the water before the Softener system, and plug in a nice big RO system. www.bulkreefsupply.com has what you need.

I recommend that you do NOT use 2.5 lbs of dextrose during bottling, but if you do, please...... take video. Time lapse or motion detection preferred. :rockin:

Next time - try sitting your boil pot in a sink or tub full of ice, whirlpool it for a few seconds while it's still steaming hot. After about 5 minutes, you will drop temp - and then try dumping in your chilled top off water. I'll bet you're seeing closer to 60 degrees and pitching yeast in no time.

I just got one of these off ebay - it does have 3 knurled steel rollers, and an adjustable gap. It's not anything more than a modded pasta mill - but for $39 + shipping it was a deal. I doubt it will last forever, but then again, it doesn't have to.

The wiki link above is some good reading. It also helped me to watch some of Kaiser's videos on Youtube and read up on his wiki site - www.Braukaiser.com This particular article gave me some good focus on mash pH: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Mash_pH_control Good luck...

Sounds reasonable - but I'd want to see you use a charcoal filter and/or campden tablets and let your tap water sit out in an open container overnight before diluting it. I think Chlorine is causing the bad aftertaste you're getting.

No practical experience with anything that big, but I've noticed that my 14 gallon Blichmann runs about 3-4 degrees hotter in my "cool room" than what my 6 gallon Better Bottles did when actively fermenting. Do you have a plan for keeping these cool?

OK- here's my shot at a guess. I'm assuming that you just kind of "winged it" with coming up with a recipe for your IPA. I Haven't heard of any IPA's using torrified wheat or Special Roast as added specialty grains. Even the 1 lb of added Crystal malt like Caramel 40 is probably a bit too...

Yeast eat sugars, not "grains". Grains are mashed to allow enzymes to convert starches into sugars. What was your process? Did you just steep these addtional grains ? At what temperature & for how long? Have you checked your current gravity? How long ago did you brew this beer?

If your beer wasn't done fermenting, moving it into a secondary was probably a mistake. Explain how you determined that your beer might have been "overgrained" -along with your Original Gravity reading, Target Final Gravity when finished (according to the recipe or instructions you used) and...

Yeah, I seem to remember an Australian guy who rigged up a kiln out of an old used clothes dryer. He even grew his own barley if I remember correctly. Searched up YouTube and found this: and this...

I wouldn't argue the 90% number too hard as in a total number of homebrewers. Think how many people out there got a Mr. Beer kit as a gift at some point in time. They might only make 5 gallons a year, but they would make a large % of the homebrewing world. Now, if you're going to measure...

Here's how I got around the "not chiller friendly" faucet head in my kitchen - cost me @ $5 at the local hardware store. I just cut off the "shower head" and connected to my chiller with a hose clamp:

Water chemistry can be real important if you're using tap water & doing all grain. Search here in HBT for how to get a Ward's Laboratory report on your water if you want to know what you're starting with. At the very least, do some reading over at Kaiser's site...

They broadcast tv signals over the air in HD ya know. Cost per year is zero. I don't know how far out in the sticks you are, but I'm about 20 miles from the nearest big city and I still get like 30 digital channels. Not getting ESPN sucks, but having an extra $500 a year to spend on something...

Good points above, my questions would center on water source, mash pH, and conversion. What is your water source? Do you know how to measure pH ? Do you check the mash for conversion using a starch test? Or, do you just figure that 60-90 minutes ought to get you there? I had poor...

Here's what I think is the easiest way to calculate: http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html

IF the beer was fine at the end of primary fermentation, and you fully sanitized everything that touched an alcohol laden, maltose deficient, very young, green beer.......... then I'm still going with the "you dumped too soon" diagnosis.

My diagnosis is that you dumped too soon.

Not mine, but probably worthwhile if someone in the area is looking to go Electric. Free 3 prong 4' Dryer Cord http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/zip/3078362276.html