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I ordered 12v, but perhaps they shipped a 24v. Other than hooking up a power supply, how can I tell?

This is the answer that I knew, but laziness was standing in the way of. My 'travel' reg's high-pressure gauge is broken, just hooked that tank up to my kegerator gauge (which sit on a 20lb tank usually) The 10lbr is showing pressure at the top end of the 'order gas' zone...

Trying to figure how if I have enough co2 in my 10lb tank to push a couple of kegs at a party tonight. I've been using this tank for a while now, so think it's close to empty. My tank currently weight 21.1 lbs (9.6 kg) Markings are as per the attached images. Thanks guys.

Yep, I did that with a wall jack power supply from an old router (actually 2 to make sure). Perhaps it's just underpowered, I'll try to find a higher amp plug to hack up. What do people usually use?

I got one of the beige pumps in the mail via eBay and it seems to be DOA. I've contacted the seller but it's been less than successful. I don't think I have any recourse as it took me while to test the thing out. Anyway, any tips on how I can get this thing running? I've tried a couple...

It's your call obviously, but I've heard bad thing about these pumps - that they will stop working after a few brews, etc. If you're going to use a pump, I'd get something like a chugger.

Ball valve for sure.

Is it possible to sour mash using an electric setup? Just set the pid to 110 and walk away for a couple of days?

Are there any issues with collecting yeast from carboys that have had gelatin added to them (for clarity, prior to kegging)

You may want to reconsider the pump. I've been biab'ing for a number of years now and have tried using a pump along the way, but it only created havoc.. compressed the grain bed, leaked a bit, etc. Did not result in better beer. I now just stir my mash every 30 min or so. Maybe for now build...

Great thread. I have 2 questions: I generally cold crash then add gelatin to the carboy. Is it ok to collect this slurry and just re pitch to the next batch? When referring to the amount of slurry to add, if I have 500ml mason jar that is half beer and half compacted yeast, etc... if I put...

Fill up one 2L bottle (pop) instead. Star san in a spay bottle (which you should always have around anyway), spray into bottle, siphon 2L into the bottle with a few coopers carbonation drops. Not hard, nor is there any more equipment.

Stick with the Festa kits until you are ready to go all grain at home. Festa kits are all grain (as opposed to extract), no dilution kits that produce great beer. Switching to a different sub-par kit to save some bottling time, or to stop from dumping 2l of beer down the drain would be a mistake.

You're right, Festa kits do produce more beer than a keg will hold. You have 2 options, dump the extra or bottle it. At the end of the day it's not a big deal either way. Also it won't be 4l you end up bottling, some will be lost to yeast, and hops (should you chose to dry hop) I brewed Festa...

Grains are fine, hops are bad.. if you do mash hopping, keep it away from your dog!

are you looking for complex recipes Doug? Or will any old recipe do?

Electric BIAB no chill for me works well with the kids. Electric - I can set my mash temp and walk away which is great, sometimes I'll mash in right away, sometimes it takes me 3 hrs depending on what's going on... with the electric setup it's just sitting there waiting for me, with propane...

That's great. Any idea of the timing?

You're going to spend quite a lot of money to have 2 30a 240v runs, one of which will be redundant when you upgrade to a panel. Might as redirect the money for the 2nd run to a panel. Probably not much cost difference, if you do then panel cheaply.

Assuming a one SSR setup, if the element switch is left turned on and the PID is set at zero from what I understand there is one 'hot line' going to the element, and potentially a second hot line due to 'leakage' from the SSR. - In this case, if there is no water in my pot, and I touch the...