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From Palmer: The grist/water ratio is another factor influencing the performance of the mash. A thinner mash of >2 quarts of water per pound of grain dilutes the relative concentration of the enzymes, slowing the conversion, but ultimately leads to a more fermentable mash because the enzymes...

first time ive seen this. -brewed a milk stout -used a wine degasser to aerate. I give a 1min burst, let it settle, clean a little, return and hit for another minute. i do this at least 3-5 times. -1.25 l starter but the last time i hit the wort with the degasser there was a lot of foam...

OG- 1.07 i believe, off the top of my head dont know the estimated FG very similiar to this persons Duvel https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f73/duvel-clone-89384/ also just realized the HBS for some reason said the WPL match to the Wyeast i wanted was 530, their Abbey Ale, when the should have...

Doesnt have any gravity details just Day 7- Rack to secondary, add Beglian Candi and fresh pack of yeast. seems pointless to wait for the yeast to stop and then rack because likely the Alch% is too high so the new yeast and sugar is a waste. but i also read WPL530 is sensative, so...

making a duvel clone, calls for a second stage with lb of belgian candy and fresh repitch of yeast have 2L WPL530 starter going primary is at 72-76, kept it mid 60s for a week, upper 60s for a few days, now low-mid 70s for a few days, still chugging along do it cut it off now and go to...

no not worried about style at all, just would like no lose out on any hefe flavors from the yeast

well sorta accidentaly. the spare room in my house has the ac/heat shut off to save on the cost. room doesnt get above 70 for anything so i generally will ferment all my beer in there. had my hefe was going well fermenting at low to mid 60s fermentation stopped, still has a day to the 10 mark...

awesome thanks for the help, gonna try the T-braid first then the copper pipe if its still buggin me

any way to work around the braid getting pinched without changing my whole set up? im thinking just a bit of copper tubing around that part to support it. hmmm not the best handyman (but working on it lol) so i dont really know what you mean by a square manifold. would be great if you could...

why rice hulls? would i add that in the bottom first then my grains to act as a sort of gradient? does this affect taste or anything?

the grains had husks, the grinder at my lhbs was pretty good, im thinking it may have been too fine. no clue how to work around that though.

1. destroyed the braid trying to unclog it :mad: 2. yea i put the plastic o ring in there, followed the sticky on here to the T, cept doubled up on washers becuase it wasn't getting sealed enough. 3, used a regular plastic tube you get in the brewing kits, 1/8 i believe. im thinking...

grain went through a regular grinder at HBS once, used 1.25q per lb of grain

so my first brew i used this for i had a lot of problems, it was emptying very, very slowly and then got completely clogged. other than having to use a large grain bag every time is there anything i can do to fix this? different size braided hose?

how did this end up?

had a nightmare of a first partial mash, clogged my braid, tried to stir the grain off it and broke my braid stuck my arms in it. so i tea bagged 10 pounds of grain the remained of my wort. was so frustrated i put down all my equipment on the garage floor, stirring spoons, grain bags everything...

im only a 30min drive away hahah. having access to their brewery only limited beers is pretty sweet. trying to find out if they use a conditioning yeast or something different than their brew yeast in the final product, i always have a 2L growler sitting around so im gonna try to culture...

creepy, thats exactly the numbers on my revised bill, minus the cane, more 2row and a bit more LME thanks all for the help!

yea im def. going to cut down the grain bill a bit. wasnt quite sure how much i really need to get what flavors and color i want reducing my steeing grains by a quarter or half for some of them. its been recommended to me to use a high gravity yeast for this to get the most fermentation outta...

what strain do u suggest u use? im seeing people using WL 001 in a lotta high grav stouts so im leaning towards that?