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So... I upgraded the temp probe which now sits ~1/2 an inch end-to-end from the heating element. Ran a couple batches over the past couple days at 100% output from the EZBoil... and NO SCORCHING [emoji1] I’m finally off to the races with mash-out, step mashing, and probably any other madness I...

Sweet!! Updated my configurations and it works like a champ! Thank you guys for the lookout!!! [emoji482]

So the readings appear to be consistently inaccurate and it gets even worse as I try to get towards strike temps... Here’s a quick side by side example next to the EZBoil used for mashing (FYI - my basement is unfinished and cold, 61F is definitely a more reasonable ambient temp):

Still quiet? Ok, here are the settings I have the PID configured to now: 1P: - Sn: Pt - SC: 0.0 - dL: 0. oP: - Ctrl: PId - H - C: Heat - run: Auto ALP: - Mode: 0 ... All alarm settings at default ranges since I don't use this - dF: 0.3 - dISP: on PId: - CtL: 1 - P: 50. - I: 30 - d: 8 unIt...

Just to make sure I’m not missing the other side of this equation, here’s a couple photos of the wiring:

Digging this thread back up— I have one of these for my HLT and can’t get the thing configured correctly if my life depended on it [emoji13] What are the key configs I have to watch for when pairing this with a PT100 RTD Probe?

Yes... augiedoggy was definitely a key source of inspiration for this build. Until I can actually implement it correctly like he does though I was going to leave the name out of it Well... what’s done is done. Any thoughts you have @augiedoggy would definitely help! [emoji482] As for everyone...

It’s kind of hard to see, but you’ll notice the temp probe tip inside the T: The wort flows through there, but now that I think about it, the diameter difference in the flow between the T and the triclamp casing alone could be enough to cause a significant temp difference..? If that’s true, a...

So it turns out the gap between the end of the element and the end of the temp probe is ~5.25”... Again, taking the ULWD into consideration I figured I was good. But if this were a shorter element, that quickly becomes a considerable gap... I wonder if a longer probe would make all my problems...

Let me measure again and get back to you... Now that you mention it, I do remember this being more than I would have liked (since I used my original temp probe), but I think I wrote it off from being a factor since the watt density on the element was so low... maybe not? I’ll let you know!

The way I understand it and seem to observe is the power will run at the max this configuration is set to. By default I believe it’s 100, but since I set it down to 80 or 35 for example, that new configuration is the max power output the element should experience (even when ramping up and likely...

Yes! This is why I reduced the output to 35% w/ my original element in the thrifty RIMS tube. If I allowed the element to run at 100% it would scorch no matter what. Seems to be a similar scenario with this element as well... The more I think about it, either the math doesn't add up as I...

By the way— please ignore my beautiful soldering skills... it’s not pretty, but I promise you it works! [emoji28] That said... if something looks goofy in the wiring, please let me know.

Here's how I have the EZBoil (Model DSPR-310) configured: Goto MASH: tSP - 148 Eo - oFF oSCr - 0 Mout - 80 AttE - 0 Goto Syst: Pb - 0.0 PuS - InSt Manual for quick reference: https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/DSPR310C_manual.pdf Note these are what I've considered to be the key...

Ebay - here's a similar listing for the exact same element: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=350488993964 Venango SC75-36 1500W 240V You're right though... it's doesn't explicitly say ULWD. I guess I assumed (ass-u-me-d )...

Haha! That’s a great explanation— Unfortunately the tube can’t go any shorter as the element inside is 36”. I suppose an inch or two could be knocked off the tube, but nothing considerable. The reason I have the element vertical the way it is, is to prevent local boiling inside the tube. Maybe...

In the photo at the bottom before the RIMS tube, you can see the flow meter and flow switch (directly above the meter but before the RIMS). Note I did not have any cables connected for the photo (which I could see also being confusing... I apologize)

Sorry, yes— wort flows in from the bottom. The temp probe is as the top outlet. The second pic is the outlet of the wort back onto the top of the mash. The mash tun itself is a bottom drain.

Yes— I make sure flow is coming out of the end, plus the RIMS is downstream of a flow switch. The temp probe is upstream of the RIMs element. Here’s a couple photos for better reference: By the way— this system runs on 240v

So I’ve been using a Thrifty RIMS for about a year or so now. It works well with my EZBoil output set to 35%. The only catch was when going for mashout temps it could take over 20 minutes... So after doing some research I got my hands on a 36” 1500 watt cartridge heater and cased it in 1.5” SS...