Search results

I've seen some bad reviews about its inability to create an airtight seal. If it doesn't seal properly, then it is effectively useless?

Good tips, thanks!

Cool tip about slide share, never heard of that before. I have probably 45 minutes to talk, could push it to an hour. May actually be too much time! I'm sure I'll get questions, and maybe we'll just try some beer to stretch the time :)

Friends, Because I can, I decided to do a lunch and learn at my work on "getting started with homebrewing". I plan to discuss the basic overall concepts, equipment, very basic chemistry behind the process, and doing your first extract recipe. I'll probably touch on minimash and all-grain, but...

Thanks for the responses! I have a nice thermapen that will work great for ensuring accurate strike temp :)

I bought two 10G converted rubbermaid coolers off craigslist in preparation for my foray into AG brewing. I have done my fair share of reading online, books, and watching youtube videos of fly sparging so I have a good idea of what my brewday should look like. However, I figure nothing beats...

it's hooked up to the regulator so it should stay at 12PSI as it starts absorbing, correct? I left it hooked up to the CO2 tank I didn't unhook it.

Thanks for the advice. It's pretty low pressure I'd say, probably <5 psi where the bubbles start forming. It's right toward the end of the purge, where it's really just exhaling the incoming CO2 from the tank (if that makes sense)

Yesterday I was loading up a beer into a keg, and I sealed the lid with ~30 PSI. Normally at this point, I lower the pressure and purge the keg of oxygen. What I noticed was that as I was purging the keg, as the pressure dropped low (almost emptied of CO2), I would start getting some bubbling...

Great, thanks! The recipe says to lower to 40F over 2 days, how necessary is this? What is the gradual decrease trying to accomplish?

I am doing my first lager recipe, and typically my LHBS's recipes tell you to rack to a secondary, which I normally skip unless I'm dry hopping. Well for the lager, since it has been fermenting for about 2 weeks and it'll condition another 3-4 weeks in cold temperatures, is it important to rack...

I think most of the gunk will be above the bottle valve so it shouldn't be too bad. Let us know how it goes.

10psi might be a bit on the low end depending on your keg temperature. More information might help but here's my hypothesis: Your beer is undercarbonated in the keg and your line length is too short. If the line isn't long enough, it can still come out with too much pressure and foam. Just...

You cold crash to help settle more stuff at the bottom so when you siphon into a bottling bucket (or whatever your method is), you're bringing over less of the yeast and stuff that is floating around in the beer. Once you have bottled, you need to raise the temperate back up so that the yeast...

Get perlicks, they are the benchmark brand and they are forward-sealing. I don't know if there's a great in-between for your setup other than just biting the bullet and spending some money. I mean you really have three options here: 1) picnic tap 2) standalone faucuet + existing tower 3) buy a...

For a 1 gallon recipe I'd recommend a BIAB kit

Nothing wrong with early fermentation, but also means that it will probably happen a lot quicker. In some cases, active yeast can finish primary fermentation in 48 hours. Like the others have said, you're more than likely fine and you're going to have a delicious beer.

best of luck with your brew!

That's weird. Just go in and buy 50' of line like I did, you can claim you need a buncha spare, it'll only cost you like $20 bucks.

The chart implies you leave it at this pressure. If you are shooting for 3, and it says 19 PSI @ 41 F, then that's what you want. what stpug says is accurate however. You will likely need a long serving line in order to handle 19 PSI. Think of it this way - the regulator setting is in charge of...