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Looks like yeast to me. White sediment at the bottom would also be yeast. Great stuff.

I think bottle conditioned beers always taste better after a couple of months. They're carbed up after a 2 weeks or so and can be drunk, but are better later.

Always put on glasses when reading anything that may be of importance to you.

Wowee. I do all grain BIAB. With dry yeast, I've aerated, not aerated, rehydrated, sprinkled, thrown salt over my left shoulder while poking my tongue out and hopping on my left leg. Now I just slop it around a bit and sprinkle. It works very well. I've had a crack with all sorts of liquid...

There are alot of factors at play when brewing. Clear descriptions of ingredients and processes help us (your beer buddies) help you get to where you want to. Otherwise, it's just guesswork. You could just brew normally and dump some maltodextrin in as do extract brewers. Nah that's crap. 66.6...

I pressure-can priming solution in advance as I do with starter wort. You know it makes sense.

As with alcohol, I believe that US-05 is being blamed for a lot of things that it just has not done. It is a very good dried yeast, which in my opinion and experience produces a wonderous beverage. WLP001 beats it for dead though.

Tonight I cracked an Irish stout that gushed all over the shop. Next stubbie was fine and well behaved. Sometimes I mightn't of cleaned the very odd bottle as well as I should of I quess. Beer in first wasn't sour, just gushy. Blame it on the beer gods.

Never had a stall. What yeast was it? There's always so many possibilities and I suppose that's what keeps us interested isn't it?

I used to do stuff like that but now just steadily pour from a bit of hight and make sure my yeast is at it and ready to rumble.

I always taste anything before I bottle it and really, we should always check SGs as bottle bombs are so dangerous. Yeast like higher temperatures but we don't like the beer they produce at those temps. They don't like temp fluctuations. Tend to stall. I wrap my fermenters in camping mats. I...

NEWS FLASH...Sydney homebrew shops swamped by requests for "Butt King Wand" ! Mardi Gras is coming up.

Tried and true for 23lt brews (roughly 6 US gallons) 250 ml (1 cup) for ale and 500 ml (2 cups) for lager. That's roughly about it but hey, life can be rough.

Just because it appears clear, doesn't mean there's no yeast there. They're there, staring at you, waiting to take over the world. Fined crystal clear beer still carbonates wonderfully in bottles. I never rack my beer unless it's to fine it or to bulk prime. It's not really an Australian...

Maybe try finishing it with champagne yeast. Allegedly that stuff can ferment rocks and tin-cans.

If I'm lounging around at home amongst the gumtrees I'll always neck stubbies (375ml bottles of amber health fluid). But if I'm heading out bush for a while, I'll aways take cans. There's nothing worse than a mob of roos demolishing ya stubbie stack. Ya see the buggers are attracted to the amber...

Call me old fashioned, but I always taste the beer before I pitch any starters into a brew. I have back-up dry-yeast if anything is not palatable. I've never had to use the dry back-up. I reckon a Sumerian wouldn't of pitched his yeast if it smelt or tasted bad. Call me old fashioned.

I've fired up stored yeast that's been in the fridge for ages and it's behaved wonderfully. Sanitation is a big deal with regard to all this stuff as I'm sure you know. Haven't got a photo of the said beasty have you mate?

You have a witch living nearby who has cast the evil eye on you. Have rum chasers with your beer and all will be cool.

Gotta look after the "Leader of the opposition" or SWMBO.."She who must be obeyed". Cervesa just means beer in latin don't it?