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I am into the bottle conditioning phase of my first batch of Amber ale. The beer has been sitting in the bottles for about 6 days now at about 65F. Upon using the flashlight behind the bottles, I noticed some kind of "vapor" looking gaseous matter suspended at the top of the beer. It...

Don't mix fermentation and carbonation stages. Although the yeasts act on sugars in both cases, the proportions (quantities) of yeasts as well as sugars are different. The wort has much more sugars than the fermented beer. Also, you pitch a lot more yeast at the beginning (prior to...

Go for it ! Depending on their storage conditions, moisture etc. they might have formed clumps. Uve got nothing to loose.

This was hilarious !

I am planning on adding some flavors to my next batch as well. Many people have suggested adding "liquid flavor extracts" instead of actual zest for various reasons. McCormick has tons of extracts. Adding those should be much easier, without the possibility of getting any off flavors which might...

Looks beautiful !

The hydrometer reading will not be affected. The trub will displace the brew up. So essentially the height of the liquid will be raised in the test jar. As long as the hydrometer is not embedded in the trub, you should be fine.

1) How did you lose half the water volume ? Did you have a thermometer to check the temperature of the boil at various stages ? How long did you boil ? Average evaporation rate of the wort can be between 8%-13% per hour of the wort boil depending on the gas BTU, type etc. 4) You also need to...

Get the temp up between 65-70F, wait for 24-48 hrs to see signs of any activity. If you have checked the original gravity before pitching the yeast, then after 24-48 hrs check the gravity again to see if its dropped. If yes, then that would indicate the yeast is active and have started doing...

Get the temp up between 65-70F, wait for 24-48 hrs to see signs of any activity. If you have checked the original gravity before pitching the yeast, then after 24-48 hrs check the gravity again to see if its dropped. If yes, then that would indicate the yeast is active and have started doing...

You are right BigFloyd. On that note, I have updated my post.

The lid on my 6.5G primary bucket is loose as well. Although it fits on the bucket, its not tight at all. I can literally spin it around the rim of the bucket with one finger. The lid says "ROPAK" on top of it and came with the Brewer's Best kit. However, I didn't have any issues with the...

I had the same doubt and so decided to call the kit manufacturer directly. Their response was - either way works. However, there are several critical things that new brewers overlook or screw up while re-hydrating the yeast. The reason the kit instructions indicate "DO NOT REHYDRATE" the yeast...

Charlie Papazian - The Complete Joy of Home Brewing

just some yeast with vitamin B :D

Being very new to home brewing I was thinking about the same thing as well for quite a while. I finally decided to contact one of the recipe kit manufacturer directly and pitched them the same question. Their response was - to reduce the weight of the kit, make the kit cheaper and to aid in...

Thanks a lot for the replies ! Makes me feel much better. I came across this article just a while back which actually mentions most of the things you guys have replied with. I think this is a great read for all new home brewers : http://byo.com/brown-ale/item/686-germ-warfare

I am new to home brewing and had this question on my mind . While transfering the cooled wort to the primary fermenter and aerating the wort in the primary fermenter bucket (before adding the yeast), the wort is exposed to air and thus the air-borne bacterias. So, wouldn't the bacteria spoil the...