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I should mention I'll be using sanke kegs to ferment in so i don't mind the pump being overkill to clean the crud off the kegs.

What do you guys think of using this pump to make a keg washer? It seems like it would be more durable than some of the Harborfreight ones I've seen out there. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-HP-Waterfall-Utility-Pump-SSB300/204478337

I ended up using this MoreBeer product while shaking the keg for a few minutes: https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonating-keg-lid.html The beer was at around 38 degrees and the regulator set to 12 psi. The aftermarket lid wasn't the best fit, but it all worked out.

I agree that most beers are better with the extra time conditioning. The beers I was quick-carbonating had both been cold crashed for over a week so that was not a concern.

Thanks Bobby. Love all my BrewHardware purchases and the vast selection of hardware.

I've read a lot about homebrewers shaking a keg to carbonate at 30 psi, but risking overcarbonation. Why not just shake the keg at 12 psi (and 38ish degrees). It might take a bit longer, but much less risk of overcarbonating, no? Anybody tried this method?

Looks great. I'm in.

Count me in!

You could also submerge the balloon in a graduated bucket or kettle and see how much water it displaces.

Thanks for this post. This is exactly what I'm planning to do, with slightly different equipment. Glad to hear it works well.

Congratulations. Who makes that brewhouse?

Great prizes. Count me in!

The entire inside of the freezer is metal so I guess that rules out the utility knife and magnet ideas.

I have a Kenmore 8.8 chest keezer and I need to drill a hole in the interior to insert a thermocouple. The thermocouple is not long enough to reach up through the collar. I'm leaning towards drilling the top of the hump since I believe there are no coolant lines there. Has anyone already...

I mounted 2 of these in my HLT: http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1-2-Female-NPT.html They are welded with the threads inside the HLT with compression fittings connecting to the copper coil. My goal was to have the top fitting be the input so the wort can drain out the bottom...

OK so back to the ORIGINAL POST. The reason I wanted to mount in the control box was so I didn't have to replace my dryer breaker with a GFCI, and if I ever move then I won't have to take the breaker with me. This is why I chose the 30A GFCI cord. I can just switch to any dryer outlet...

I was able to find these on Ebay after a little looking. http://cgi.ebay.com/30A-Grnd-Fault-Interrupt-w-MPlug-GFIC-Cable-FREE-SHIP-/190482972014?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c59ab7d6e#ht_1457wt_1139 I will use this as suggested by Kal in all his great work.

Has anyone had luck mounting a GFCI breaker directly onto their control box? I would like to use an existing 30A outlet and mount the breaker on the control box instead of in the breaker box.

Presidential Porter