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Could just forget about all those specialty malts and do a citra pale ale bitterered with warrior then citra at flameout and dryhop. Just pale malt and a touch of honey malt (4-6 oz) for the grain bill. Ferment with us-05

That's a lot of zest. Makes sense with the flavor though. And yeah I'd just use the regular Sculpin clone. This doesn't look that close to the Sculpin recipe to be perfectly honest. Other option: just use your favorite IPA recipe and add grapefruit zest if that's what you're really after.

My phone notifies me when someone posts in this thread, which helps. I would have been able to get ECY this time had I needed any. I still got Bug County from January though. Slacking on my wild brewing

I used my Dirty Dozen in a "farmhouse pale ale" with citra and mosaic a month ago. Maybe I'll pull a sample soon and let you know how it tastes as a primary yeast in a young beer. I also saved some slurry from the yeast starter I made. I'll probably use that in a saison sometime soon.

I wouldn't bottle a brett beer at 1.021. Too unpredictable. It would probably carbonate, and way over carbonate at that gravity.

I posted before reading the whole thread and just have to say I agree with everything you have said. That gose sounds delicious

Some people might disagree with me, but I get a distinct (not good) flavor from beers where the bacteria has been pasteurized. Personally when I do quick sours (berliners, gose, etc.) I do no hops, pitch my lactobacillus with a 1 day head start (I find that a high room temperature is...

US 2 row is used because it is cheap in the US. In a beer with tons of specialty malts, the base malt isn't extremely important imo so just use what is available to you. The carafa III here is dehusked, so using black patent will give you a more bitter, roasty beer. It's not the best...

I wouldn't increase the crystal, but that's just my taste. I do not like crystal malt in my hop forward beers. I wouldn't go over 2 oz for sure.

I think the small amount of chocolate in the recipe is more for color adjustment than flavor. I personally think cutting the amount of chocolate malt like you said is the best and simplest option.

Just mash higher, use some flaked oats, wheat, or rye for body, and a flavorful base malt. I do think that you get quicker diminishing returns with hops in a low gravity beer. I wouldn't do a 6 oz dry hop in a <1.050 gravity beer like I would a dipa because 3 or 4 oz is plenty.

Way too much caramel malt for my taste. How sweet do you want it to be?

What are Wai-Iti hops like? I've never heard of them. Maybe they aren't what you were hoping for? Also if it tastes like yeasty green beer maybe it is just yeasty green beer. Let it clean up.

Personal opinion: use less caramel malt. Probably around half of what you have now or even less. I do no caramel malt in my pale ales and ipas, but even if you want the caramel, 1.2 lbs is too much. Also I agree with people saying to do more late hops. Also do more hops in general (keep ibus...

Brevis has yeast in it? I thought it was just heterofermentative.

I have some Dirty Dozen that I ordered back in February. At this point I think there's certainly not enough viability for a 100% fermentation, so I think I'm going to do a saison using some of the Saison Brasserie Blend that I saved from a previous batch and then do Dirty Dozen in secondary for...

Stop taking gravity samples after 3 days

A brett saison can be turned around reasonably quickly, because the highly attenuating primary yeast will leave little for the brett to chew on sugar wise (little worry of overcarbing) but plenty of esters and phenols to develop the brett. If you want sour, i recommend very low ibu and pitching...

You should be drinking a iipa long before the infection has a chance to do a whole lot

the paint strainer bags I got from home depot are pretty fine. they do a good job keeping out any hops or fruit. If you can't find any fine paint strainers, just go to your lhbs and get a biab bag. It works the same. Neither will keep out all the yeast sediment though.